UK Canals - Journey reports

Brentford

High tide was at 16:30, so just after 16:00 We left the lock mooring expecting a bit of delay for a 16:15 departure. However it was a spring tide and the height was such that both ends of the lock were open and We just sailed through. The weather was now sunny spells and not cold. On arrival at Brentford Gauging Lock passage was temporarily blocked by a large barge seemingly covered in rubbish and inhabited by young people. As usual now, no moorings in the basin but We did find space by the A4.

Staines - Ashby Recreation Ground

Last evening, after supper and the washing up done, we settled down to listen to some music quietly and read our respective kindles.  It was dark by then.  A cruiser came by at such speed that the boat was thrown into wild pitching and rolling grinding against the side.  The nearest we have experienced that before was at Teddington when the lifeboat passed, blue lights flashing on its way to Kingston Bridge for a jumper, or tied up to a dolphin on the tidal river near Limehouse with trip boat wash bashing us up and down smashing crockery.   Well this time nothing was broken, but when I went out to check the mooring before retiring for the night it appeared that the wash had come right over the counter, sloshed over the engine bay deck board and up under the rear doors (which were closed thank goodness).  In the  night I suddenly thought about the exhaust pipes.   Would a lot of water have gone in there and interfere with the Eberspacher more particularly?   So that was first check next morning, but nothing seemed amiss, apart from some water in the engine hole.

We passed two locks self service, Bray and Boveney and almost got out of Romney Lock before the lock keepers arrived.  Pat then got an earful for not having Alfie on a lead.  Laugh.  Alfie has done more locks than - well hot dinners spring to mind.  Yet Romney Lock will be our nomination for best kept lock.  Shepperton comes a close second.  Our target today was a mooringthat we had spied on the way up river.   Upstream of Staines Bridge is  a recreation ground with some rings on a clean wall.  It was free and we stopped there.   Ashby Recreation Ground.  Nearby is the "London Stone", a replica of a monument set up to mark the end of the tidal river in the 13th Century when the King (Richard I I believe) sold his rights to the non-tidal river to the city of London.  The stone marked the boundary.   Apparently the actual monument has been moved about a bit and the marker on the river bank is now a replica.  Anither thing I learned today is that Staines is at the southern end of the Colne Valley in which Harefield sits.

Pangbourne Meadow

We passed Blakes Lock unattended to get back to the river and then set off for Pangbourne to return tomorrow. There is quite a flow on the river again needing extra power. At Mapledurham the weir causes all sorts of eddies and back currents making access to the lock layby tricky. A hire cruiser ahead got into trouble and a chap missed his footing and fell in. Emerged cold and wet, otherwise unscathed. We stopped at the top for water. There are good facilities there including pumpout. Plenty of room at Pangbourne.

Reading - K&A Prison Loop

A very gloomy and miserable start to the day.  By 9:00 the rain had started, sometimes heavy, but more or less continuous.  The wind was also getting up, though not as cold as yesterday.  We stopped at Tesco King's Meadow, Reading for lunch and took stock.   Our original plan was to spend 14 days doing the Thames Ring - that is Thames to Oxford, then Oxford and Grand Union Canals back to base, however, sadly a funeral popped into the calendar taking a day out.   It would have been just possible to complete the plan, albeit at a bit of a rush.  However we do have a deadline and with all the rain we have had and will get, by all accounts, there is bound to be some disruption that we cannot cope with.  It was our aim earlier in the year to do the Thames Ring, but similar problems forced us to return home the way we had come and it looks now as if we will have to take the same course.   So instead of carrying on further today in the direction of Oxford we will stay in the Reading area where there is a good train service and then return home.    The Prison Loop on the K&A has some decent moorings which we have used before with no problems, so here we are.

Forgot to mention.   Taking the prison loop anticlockwise, you come to a very low bridge.   I thought that just taking the coolie hat off the chimney would be enough, but evidently misjudged it because it wasn't.   There was a scraping noise and the chimney was crushed, bent and split at the base.  The TV aerial was also bent, so now we look like a true "live-aboard" with a bent and twisted TV aerial on the roof.

Hurley

Hurricane Nadine remnants were forecast to hit us today and sure enough at about 10:30 the rain started.   The first two locks we had done self service including the large Romney Lock which can be quite testing as it uses side fill.  With no other boat in the lock we had plenty of room to play with.  With Pat at the lock pedestal I am essentially single handed, so secure the stern to a bollard and tie off, then take the bow rope at a forward angle to a suitable bollard and control that from the lock-side.  As the boat rises, pulling forward on the bow keeps the stern rope taught and the boat slowly coming forward.  At least that's the theory.  With the side fill there is quite a strong force pushing the boat off the side, so it ends up a couple of feet out, but quite secure.    As we progressed, the wind started to get up as forecast and the rain continued, so that by the time we reached Temple Lock, now on lunchtime self service, we had just about enough of the cold and wet, so at Hurley we took up the invitation from the lock-keeper for an overnight mooring in the weir stream above the lock.   The forecast is not good.  However we are an hour ahead of plan now to reach a rendezvous at Oxford and we will just have to take things as they come and hope that the river doesn't rise too much to stop progress.  Then, later on, there is still the river Cherwell to consider on the lower end of the Oxford Canal. That can cause problems too.   So at least we are warm and snug for tonight

Runnymead

There had been quite a lot of rain overnight, but this morning was bright but with a chill wind.  We set off at 7:45.  There were a lot of cyclists on the towpath bearing numbered labels.  At Kingston Bridge they were still passing and still at Hampton Court as we arrived at Molesley Lock just before the lock-keeper.  A narrowboat had turned up 5 minutes before us and the skipper was already working the lock, so we were first in.  The lock-keeper saw us out and he thought it was part of some "Stroke Association" event.  There must have been hundreds.   Pat wanted to visit a shop for milk and paper and the first opportunity that we know was Staines, but the public moorings near the bridge are rather limited and in part totally overgrown, so we stopped on the pub moorings for the Swan.  Pat shot off and I had a pint of "Seafarer's Ale" (£3.80).  It's a popular Olde Worlde type pub, but in the shade outside and not really pleasant in the chilly wind.   We have 5 days in total to get to Oxford from Teddingtonwhere we need to stop to return home briefly, so one of our favourite moorings at Runnymead would put us on course.  We are expecting the weather to deteriorate.

Teddington

A long day ending at dusk in the rain. Hanwell Locks were quite a struggle and we both felt tired. I might devote an entire blog to it.

Harefield

Theoretically I need not have booked Thames Lock Brentford as the lock-keeper would have been on duty anyway at 8:00 am.  However, the tidal window would close at 8:40 (ish) and to give a little more room for error I booked for 7:30.   The tidal journey takes about an hour, so we left the moorings (£8.00 overnight) and hovered.  There were three other boats, one anxious to have a bit of company, so we dawdled once on the tideway, making about 4 mph without much effort.  By the time we reached Brentford we had cut power and were still making nearly 6mph.  It had been a 7M plus tide at London Bridge.  Sure enough, Kate the lock-keeper had the lock ready for us.   It had taken an Hour.   We joined nb Mona May in the lock and as it happened, continued up to Harefield with them.  They also moor at Harefield.

Having exited the Gauging Locks we were not surprised to find nowhere to moor in the Brentford Basin.  It seems that the moorings here are always occupied with long stayers, and the bank between the railway bridge and the A4, a much more pleasant mooring incidentally, has become the norm for overnighters.   Here we picked up Sam as additional crew for the climb up Hanwell and beyond, I being fearful that the broken toe would seriously hamper our progress.   As it transpired, with the additional person and the two boats, we fairly shot up the flight hampered only by the extreme shallows and weed growth in the Brent Navigation and the one dodgy lock in the Hanwell Flight that has leaky walls draining out into the side pond and one ground paddle U/S.

Teddington

Just a few rowers out when we left Maidenhead at 6:50.  Bray and Cleeve Locks must have received some Olympic money because there was some fancy electronic signage at the layby displaying "messages".  The lock signage has been renewed also, but although it is very pretty, not any good when viewed from a distance.  Black and green merge with the background.  These two locks and Romney Lock were all self service being before 9:00 am.  However, Bell Weir was also on self service and worse - the power had failed and it was hand wind or nothing.  Fortunately 4 boats had pitched up with the delay and there was ample muscle power available.   It is a big lock and just raising and lowering the sluices is hard work.   Rapid progress from then on with lots of small boats, canoes and sailing training schools out on the water in the Teddington Reach.   Overnight mooring is now £8 for us at Teddington.  We are due out at 6.00 in the morning.

Pangbourne Meadow

Pat had the lock ready before I left the mooring. The first 3 locks We had to ourselves self service. Flows are down now the river has widened out, but We made good progress. A nearby moored boat meant that We had to do the Pumpout at Abingdon wrong sided a.d the pipe was bearly long enough. No moorings available at Wallingford for shopping as We had hoped. Next opportunity was Pangbourne where fortunately We did find space.

Oxford

The journey back to Oxford to pick up Pat seemed to pass quickly. The question in my mind was that tomorrow We would be going back up river again and I would need to turn the boat either above the lock, or below. The stream at Osney Bridge flows fast and the only place to turn is where the stream divides, left for a weir and right for the lock and another weir. I decided to turn above the lock by steering the bow into the left hand wall and allowing the current to swing me round. The risk was that once the turn was more than half way the stream would take the whole boat down broadside onto the central divider unless I could pull it into the lock channel fast enough. Well it worked but I nearly chickened out. I put this in the not to be repeated category. Went to the bank and food shopping in Oxford. Ghastly experience. So crowded. All those people aimlessly wandering about. The two batteries are coping OK but very restricted use until our full bank is restored.

On the move again

After my visit to Wales and Pat's visit home we are on the move again.   Alfie must be getting a bit disturbed by all the to-ing and fro-ing.  The trains have been very crowded and the tube especially so, so when some idiot stood on his tail he got very aggressive and went for the guy's leg.  Can't say I blame him.  The guy in question didn't seem to notice.  Then when passengers went to pet him, he did the nasty growling and baring teeth thing, and this afternoon, got very aggressive with other dogs which threatened his territory on the river bank.

 

Moored at Pangbourne Meadow

I left the marina (where the boat has been moored during our absence) and proceeded to Caversham Lock to meet Pat at Reading Bridge.  Rather embassassingly, the centre rope got snagged on the bollard as the boat rose causing a severe list, before the lock keeper could reverse things and let a bit of water out to release the rope.  Unfortunately the glass cafetiere got broken in the process and a whole load of cutlery scattered over the floor.  With Pat and Alfie back on board we continued to Pangbourne Meadow where I have never been able to moor before.  A nice site, lovely for the dog, and with easy access to the town.  Becoming sunny in the afternoon, so chairs out!

 

 

Reading

We upped the plank (gangway!) and left the mooring at 7:50.  Just a few rowers about and the water was very smooth.   On approach to Marsh Lock we enjoyed a heavy downpour, but the rain soon stopped.  The lock was empty with the paddles up and on self service because of the early hour.  So no need to moor up, just drop Pat off to open the gates using the push buttons.    I am essentially single handing at this point, Pat working the lock, so the central rope to a bollard at the rear, and the stern rope likewise.  Once the boat is stopped, the centre rope can be looped over a bollard near to the centre of the boat.  Marsh Lock is not deep, and being at the rear of the lock the turbulence from the sluices is not a problem, especially as the automated controls are set very gentle.   Each lock has its own set of particular instructions.  In this case, just close the gates on exit and leave the paddles up.   By the time we reached Shiplake Lock, the lock-keeper was on duty.   At Sonning we squeezed in behind a large dutch barge.   Although the River still has quite a flow, it must still be decreasing because we seemed to make good headway on less power than yesterday.   I had checked the fuel level and we had used only 40 litres since Uxbridge, so the greater throttle setting we have been using was not a problem.   Arriving at Reading, we ascended Caversham Lock and moored temporarily just above Reading Bridge for Pat and Alfie to reach the station.   They are going home for a few days, while your scribe goes to Snowdonia to do a small job.  

Henley

A very polite functionary came to collect our mooring fee at 9:20 shortly before Chloe Kai and little Ben arrived. We set off about 10:00, late for us. An uneventful trip really. Very little traffic on the river, though more trip boats than I have seen before, but then it is high season. Moored up on the left bank (another 8 quid.)

Weeds

The moorings at Willowtree were infested with thick weed patches. So come time to leave the plan was to haul the boat off in neutral to get the prop in the centre of the canal before powering up, then to reverse to the marina entrance to turn. The plan didn't really work because when we were ready to turn the prop was totally fouled and useless. Then the weed hatch plate was welded in place by congealed paint from the blacking and it took 20 mins to get it open. Thereafter a pleasant cruise back to base in warm sunshine, stopping at Cowley for lunch.

Lazy day

We remain on our mooring at Willowtree. Today the job was to replace the galley sink tap. The boat plumbing is all in plastic, a material I have no experience with. So it took two trips to the plumbers merchant in Southall, a short walk away, but the job was surprisingly easy when all the kit was finally together. The morning was sunny and warm, the first taste of summer.

Willowtree

Came to the boat today to get ready for a longer trip in 10 days time. Now We find ourselves back at Willowtree. It's a quiet mooring with plenty of territory for Alfie to patrol and protect. Good facilities within easy reach. Passing Cowley We had the services of a volunteer lock-keeper. Feeling very lazy.

Harefield

Last leg of our trunkated journery today.  We thought that we would prepare this morning for a quick get away on our arrival at Harefield, have a Sunday Lunch at the Toll House rather than the pub because Alfie is welcome there, then make a run for home.   By lunchtime, and with the odd bit of sunshine, the walkers were out in force.  As we finished lunch the electric broadbeam floating classroom "Esdale" was coming up in the lock with evidently an adult party on board enjoying a full hot buffet.   It must have been at least 15 minutes later when, having shut the top gates (why do broadbeams always leave them open) that we followed but had caught up with them by Uxbridge Lock.   Fortunately "Esdale" turned at the river and we had no problem waiting for Denham Deep, with just a boat descending  ahead.   Again, many gongoozlers, attracted no doubt by the adjacent tea rooms.

Half an hour after arriving at Harefield we were on the A40 home.

Cowley

Willowtree is a good mooring for those on the way to London.  It is on the offside ajoining a large park and recreation ground and nature reserve.  The park backs onto a new housing estate of nicely maintained owner occupied houses and a nearby large Tesco, B&Q and other retail outlets.  We had stopped there on our diverted re-route to London, and although a couple of days of reasonable weather with even some brief sunshine enabled us to do some badly needed routine maintenance, the wind has got up again and the weather outlook is not brilliant.  So we have decided to return home as we actually have no need to visit London, rather it was just a way of spending the two weeks we originally thought we would take going up the Thames.

So we are now moored below Cowley Lock and should be back home tomorrow.

Willowtree

A quiet day today taking advantage of the sunshine to get some needed maintenance done. The cratch cover is getting tired and needed another patch, tedious without an industrial sewing machine. Then a bit of painting. Pat discovered a large Tesco and B&Q nearby. Useful!

Cowley

Left home at 15:25 after recent 24 hour rain. Flung everything in the boat when We got there and set off. Reversing out of the mooring the wind caught us and threatened to broadside us onto the nearby moored boats. It was cold and drizzly with a cold wind from behind, but the locks were with us and We made our mooring in 2 hours. Lit the stove and did a bit of sorting out in the larder cupboard. Out went a rock hard bag of sugar and stuff in store since 2008.

Nuggler starts trip today

Dismal day back at home. Continuous rain.13 deg C. Who would be mad enough to set off today! Watch this space and see.

Sprotbrough

Arrival at Sprotbrough after our first full day back on the boat following a brief sojourn in London. We met Derek again at the top of Tinsley and with all top gates opened for us and leaving all bottom gates open for an upcoming we were down in no time. Then a quick food shop in Rotherham before joining a sailing boat at Eastwood for the rest of the trip.

Weedon

Very few other boats moving this morning but we did pick up one to join us for the Stoke Bruerne flight. "Passing through". Proved a very efficient combination and we followed them through the tunnel. Many gongoozlers at the top of the flight. Passed Draco and Success at the tunnel side moorings and spoke to Mike and Krystina. After that there seemed a constant stream of opposite direction stuff. So busy all of a sudden. Stopped at Weedon but no TV signal, so moved round the corner. Result. Lovely sunny evening for sitting out.

Moving again

Nuggler leaves Harefield for the north this morning.

Walton-on-Thames

Not so far to go today as we will obviously not make Teddington by 12:30.   So we left later than usual - 07:10.   Yes, I know,we can't help ourselves.   The first two locks both had power, first the massively long Romney Lock and then Old Windsor Lock (because its near Old Windsor, not because of age).  The weather was cooler and cloudier with much more wind necessitating the heavy coat.   A mooring was available near the Anglers so we took it.   This will put us in a good position to make Teddington in the morning.

Windsor

Just in case we might be able to accelerate our return home by catching the tide on Tuesday, we left early - just before 7:00.   Pat went to the lock to grapple with the electronic controls for the "out of hours power".  However, she reported that nothing worked.  Then whilst waiting for me she decided to use the manual wheel (96 turns to open a gate).  Then precisely at 7:00 the power available light came on.   There is one of these boxes at each end of the lock, but they are interlocked so that it is not possible to open paddles at each end (as I have seen a lock-keeper do!).  There is a small point which catch catch out the novice however.  The gates will only open if the paddles are up.  I arrived at Abingdon lock early one morning and found the lock empty and ostensibly ready for me but I couldn't get the gates to open.  Much time was wasted running back and forth between each end of the lock thinking that the problem was at the other end.   Finally it dawned on me.  Just pretend the lock is full and raise the paddles - an automatic  4 minute timed staged process once the button is pressed.  Some locks have no public power and for them the wheel and much winding is required, like the next lock we came to - Shiplake.       At Marlow Lock we were forced to wait while a three large cruisers were let down but were entranced by a mother grebe and her two young chicks riding on her back, then being thrown off and being taught to dive.  Dad then arrived with some food for them. (Click on the picture to enlarge).   Finally we made Windsor.  Pat wanted a bottle of milk, but before we could get that we saw a dutch barge belonging to one of our CUTWEB friends and stopped for a chat and peep at the boat.   If wanting to live on a boat, this must be the way.  So much more room.    Mooring was a bit of a problem.   The field on the Eton side was nearly full and an attempt to moor in the only gap got us firmly aground about four feet from the bank.   After poleing off we eventually got a spot nearer the railway bridge and potentially quieter.  There was a fairground operating inn the field.

Sonning

Leaving Shillingford around 08:00 we son came to Benson Lock which unfortunately has no out of hours power.   Sam and Gemma took turns winding the handles to power the hydraulics that work the gates and paddles.   A good workout after the full english breakfast that started the day!  Not many locks today.  Cleeve and Goring Locks soon passed and we decided to stop early for lunch as again, the weather was sunny and hot.   The youngsters took the opportunity for a swim. The last leg to Reading took 2:25 hrs and having said goodbye to our last crew we made the short hop to Sonning to be in a good position for the last few days journey home.   We are aiming for the midday tide on Wednesday.

Shillingford

With Gemma and Sam as crew we left at 08:00.  The Thames Lock-Keepers come on duty at 09:00, but as Osney Lock has power out of hours we were soon through and on our way.   At the next lock, the lockie was also not on duty, but had turned the power on for us, so no problem there.   At Abingdon Lock we were signalled to enter alongside a large trip boat,but it was obvious we would not squeeze in and had to back out much to the embarrasment of the lock-keeper who explained that he was a relief lock-keeper and had to keep a lot of figures in his head.   Abingdon was busy, but we were not planning to stop there.  We had lunch on the move and as it was such a beautiful warm day decided to stop early at Shilingford on a bank mooring above the bridge where there was some grass and an option of setting up a barbeque.  As it happened it was so pleasant that we set the gazebo up as well, so did the whole thing in style.

Osney Bridge, Oxford

Harry has been very enthusiastic working the locks and is now fully conversant with the routine, so he came into his own for the last four manual locks today.  There was work in progress above Dukes Lock prettying up the towpath, but we stopped here anyway for water.  Once pon the Thames, Harry had a turn a the helm.  On arrival at Osney Bridge where there were plenty of moorings (it was 12:15) we visited the Watermans Arms for lunch and then said goodbye to Debbie & Harry to await Gemma and Sam.