UK Canals - Journey reports

Grand Union Canal:Norton Junction

First the tunnel, then Blisworth and on past Gayton Junction all very quiet.  Just before I reached Hayleyford Marina a boat emerged ahead and now in front of me.   As it appeared to be going slowly I decided to stop for a cup of coffee and see if later I caught up with it. So after a 10 minute break I carried on and caught up at Weedon.  I then followed at a distance.  I was quite happy with that but not to keen on sharing locks as a single hander as it makes a lot more work for me unless the paired boat is well crewed and then I feel uncomfortable letting them do all the work.  So I leet them carry on when the bottom of the Buckby Flight appeared in the distance, and I stopped for lunch.  About 1/2 hour later I continued only to find the same boat waiting at the bottom lock waterfall.  I walked up to investigate and found a boat just entering the lock above, so gave a hand.  Coming down again I tried to organise a plan, but it didn’t work out really well.  It just wasn’t a smooth plan as it would have been with Pat in charge.  Any way we got to the penultimate lock where the other boat was stopping for the night.  I was tempted but really wanted to get the top lock out of the way and try the moorings after the junction.  So I was able to work the lock as I wanted in full view of the New Inn patrons and jealous of their pints.  The mooring just after the next bridge was good for me.

Grand Union Canal:Stoke Bruerne

At Cosgrove a boater was taking water at the lock landing and another boat was moored behind waiting on him.  So I put the bows into the lock ‘V’, secured the centre line and gently emptied the lock, opened the gate and carried on.   I reached the bottom of the Stoke Bruerne Flight at 10:30.  The bottom pound was a bit low but doable.  I tried the bike out to ride up to prep the next lock to open the gate ready, leaving the lock to fill over the last foot or so.   That seemed to work (rather than mooring up below the lock to open the gate), but I need a full time and motion to work out if it really is better.  Better, I guess than walking up there.  At the next lock I really had lost my touch as I left the gear in reverse after having jumped off and up the ramp with a rope.  The mistake is extra work to deal with and breaks all my attempts at reducing work.  At the last but one lock, I had ridden around the bend to find a boat exiting and a lock keeper in attendance, so I shouted leave the gates open and rode back.  This was very helpful especially the top lock which if unattended means climbing the ladder with a rope to maintain control of the boat while opening paddles.  There was a mooring waiting in pole position.  Quite a tiring day in full sunny ad rather warm conditions.

Grand Union Canal:Bridge 75

An early start as usual.  Good time to 3 Locks.  No lock keepers in sight, so I started off and walked down to the middle lock to prep it and open a gate, when a lock keepers appeared.  So all went easily.   I had wondered what our water state was, so stopped at the bottom to put some in the tank.  It looked as if I actually had plenty so didn’t wait for a full fill.  Onwards from Stoke Hammond, again I wanted to check diesel so stopped at Willowbridge Marina.  It’s self service but I, and the store minder had a lot of trouble getting it to work.   110p/L base price.  Then on and on.  At Fenny I was greatly assisted by an opposite direction boater.  Finally I decided to cut short at Bridge 75 rather than continue of for the next 40 minutes to Wolverton.  It had been a hot day and I was tired.  For meals I am digging into my store of frozen ready meals.  I run the microwave from the EcoFlow Delta rather than the boat batteries. 

Grand Union Canal: Leighton Buzzard

My guest needed to get back to London today and our target was Leighton Buzzard.  It was a pretty straightforward trip.  We did indeed leave at 06:55 - a ‘stealth departure’.  The weather has turned at last and we have had a sunny warm day and will perhaps now say goodbye to the boat stove.  After my guest’s departure, some cleaning and now time to deal with all the other little things that are part of a boater’s life.

Grand Union Canal:Marsworth

We set off a little later than usual for some late additions to our shopping.  Waitrose opens at 07:30.  Prepping the first lock, a short boat appeared below and joined us continuing on as we stopped at the shopping mooring.   We caught up with him shortly after we had returned to continuing our journey and shared locks, with him running ahead as far as Bushes.  At Northchurch a descending boat intervened and we continued alone up to the top at Cowroast where he was moored for water and other services, so we continued together with him ahead into the long cutting.   There were some extremely slow boats ahead needing my boat out of gear to be slow enough. We overtook one, and the second moored up thankfully.   Thereafter our companion seemed very slow and there was a distinct smell of burning oil in his exhaust.  I accepted his offer to pass and then lost him at Bulbourne.   There were two lock keepers on the Marsworth flight who saw us all the way down in very quick time. There appeared to be a mooring space on the right after lock 39.   Only after I had shut the boat down did I realise that the mooring was the first of the resident boaters mooring.  Later that evening a neighbouring boater drew my attention to the notice and warned that his friend, the owner of the mooring would not be happy to find me there.  We took a chance and stayed, relieved when night fell.  We were planning to leave at 7:00 am.  

Grand Union Canal:Berkhamsted

• We did the Winkwell Middle and Top Locks no problem.  Sewer Lock gates were both open so we went in and as we closed the gates a boater appeared and explained that he had set the lock for his wide beam and had set the next lock as well.  However he seemed unworried and helped us up.  The next lock also had both gates open ready for him, so we used that lock, but as he had been so helpful, I stopped at the top and reversed the lock and left both bottom gates open ready for him.   We were gone before he appeared.  At Berkhamsted we found a mooring on the pound above Ravens Lane Lock and walked to Waitrose for a bit of shopping.  Pub meal in the evening at Crystal Palace with a really lovely mixed salad Chinese roast duck starter.   

Grand Union Canal:Winkwell

We are now getting anxious about the pump out problem.   Having failed at Bridgewater Boats (Cassio Bridge) the next possible opportunity is at Hemel Marina by Winkwell swing bridge.   I have passed this boatyard many times but what passes for a wharf is always cluttered with work in progress.   Anyway a phone call appeared to be positive, so having worked the lock we drifted up to a collection of boats, tied up to something, and  being unable to get easily ashore, shouted at a passing employee that we were after a pump out.   To be fair the response was very quick and slightly curious, as the actual pump appeared to be about 50 yards away at the back of the lot.  Still. it all worked and feeling relieved at that, we were further relieved of £40 for the privilege.  I guess they really don’t want to be bothered again.

Caroline worked the bridge for me, which is always a great help as the road is surprisingly busy and single handing, the motorists get very impatient.

Fortunately there was a mooring available opposite the pub and a meal was enjoyed there that evening.

Grand Union Canal:Hunton Bridge

It was raining hard first thing.  No rush to get moving as we had received a “red light” during the day and would be looking forward to getting a pump out at Bridgewater Boats, so no point in getting there too early.  By about 9:00 am the rain eased off and we set forth.  Lot Mead was empty but Common Moor Lock had a majestic waterfall running over the bottom gates and when empty, the lock ground paddle weirs were running briskly.  However, I was pleased that in spite of my concerns, I could get a top gate open.  Arriving at Bridgewater Boats we were informed that the pump-out was U/S.  This is a bit of a blow of course as the next known published pump out is probably the boatyard at Winkwell.  So we got two bags of coal at the ridiculous price of £41 for the two and stopped for water at the top of Cassio bridge Lock.  Very slow!!  Then came the notoriously slow Iron Bridge Lock.   I am convinced that the ground paddles do absolutely nothing, although the rack lifts easily on each side, there is no disturbance in the lock indicating a water flow.  Left to use only gate paddles, and with leaking bottom gates, it took ages to fill and the two of us were unable to open the top gates.  We had to use the boat (as carefully as possible).   We arrived at my “usual moorings” at Hunton Bridge after quite a long day, but dry!

Grand Union Canal:Batchworth

Another half decent day ahead. Cowley Lock was a bit of a shambles.  Caroline is not crew and I needed to be in the single hander mind-set and not assume that things will get done which I needed to do myself.  Moving on past all the moored boats we eventually came to Uxbridge Lock.  It was empty, no problem there but as we opened the top gate a swan came in, swam to the bottom gate and couldn’t be enticed out.  It became apparent that its mate was down below and the swan was frantically trying to find a way down to join.  We had no alternative but to stop and empty the lock.  As the bottom gate started to open the swam squeezed through the gap and rushed off. Continuing on, at the deep lock it looks as if the cill protector has been seriously bashed because the wood is smashed and the metal work deformed into an arch.  My button fender got caught up in this briefly.  There appeared to be quite a few boats moving relative to the week before.  I stopped briefly at Harefield Marina to return a sanitary key which had been left on the boat during my earlier visit last week.  (Editing this later, how I wished we had used the opportunity to get a pump out there).  At Batchworth there was a wide beam locking down ahead of us, and then later, waiting to exit the lock, the heritage boat Roger was seemingly very anxious to get in the lock before we got out.  It didn’t.   We stopped for the night at an old mooring of mine below Lot Mead Lock.  It’s a nice walk along the Ebury Way into the Ricky shopping Centre where Wetherspoons provided a good meal.

Grand Union Canal:Cowley

Caroline joined me this morning as the family left.   Having moved the boat yesterday we were all ready pointing down the canal in the right direction, so took off more or less straightaway.  I was mostly overcast with occasional sunshine and good progress was made, overtaking one very slow boat and happy that an inevitably slow widebeam ahead decided to moor up.   We found a mooring for Tesco at Yiewsley to top up on essentials, and then continued the short way to Cowley, stopping short at bridge 189 for a mooring in hand rather than take the chance of finding one closer to the pub.  A good meal in the Malt Shovel.

Grand Union Canal:Paddington Arm Little Venice

Kai's Parents had returned home late last evening.  The rest of us went for brunch at Zizzi's.  On return to the mooring I was met by a boater (boat tied up nearby) who was of the opinion that I was on his reserved mooring.   We compared our documents and it would appear that I was indeed in the wrong place.   The only other option for me would have been on the run into the basin before the toll house where I had seen a vacant spot the day before.  However it was not visible from where we were, so I went round to have a look.  There was no space now because a much shorter boat was now in that vacant spot.  I had a word and they were sure that they had the right to be there, likewise the next boat whose occupant had mobility issues.  There was, however, a trading boat moored behind with enough room to move which would give me access.  This guy was very helpful and said he would move after his 'shop' closed, which he did.  However it did mean me having to moor alongside the  longer of the other two boats to wait.  The guy on the short boat was not particularly accommodating but quite polite about it.  All this was rather important because I was the only one on the boat, the rest of the family having gone out for the afternoon, and I needed to at least be on the bank  for Monday morning when Caroline was due.  Anyway all got sorted and now nearer to the underground station to boot.

Grand Union Canal Paddington Arm:Little Venice

19th April 2025

We needed to visit Tesco this morning , essentially for party supplies.  Then to be at Hayes Station at 11:00 to pick up 5 passengers.   This was done with immaculate timing, both parties coming together at exactly 11:00.  Good speed had been made on the way due in part for the fact that the canal is deep and the passage of our boat had little effect on moored boats as we passed thus permitting a higher than usual throttle setting.   We reached Little Venice at about 2:30pm.  Of record, were the number of sunken boats seen; the general overcrowding of popular mooring spots with all sorts of boats; the generally clean condition of the canal and the huge amount of development Bankside that has taken place since my last visit many years ago.

On the way party food was provided and consumed.  On arrival at our reserved mooring there was very much a party atmosphere.  There was a total of 10 on the boat and the relatively private atmosphere of the Rembrandt Garden Mooring was much appreciated.

Our evening together was at a Lebanese restaurant in the “Paddington” side.  It was found to be rather disappointing.

 

Grand Union Canal: Cowley Lock

Having had a short day yesterday, we have to make up for it and to get to Cowley where we should have been. It would take us one 9 hours.   The crew were very happy for this, but from past experience, to find a decent mooring it is best to arrive early afternoon.  So to give us the best chance I got the boat moving at 06:30 with occasional help with the  locks, whist Chloe set about cooking one of her fantastic boat breakfasts, the “Full English”.   This was declared ready at Lady Capel’s Lock and Chloe took the helm whist the feast was devoured.  So then we just carried on, in our lonesome.  Very little other traffic.  At Widewater lock I wanted to reverse into Harefield Marina entrance to use the diesel and pumpout facilities and had planned my manoeuvre in my head.  Imagine seeing the lock gates opening to reveal a large widebeam approaching head on in the belief that the lock was his.  Behind him was another boat evidently wanting the lock, so my beautifully planned reverse into the entrance was ruined.  Additionally the wind has got up which did help, but made the exit problematical requiring a long reverse into the marina proper before getting enough free stern movement to push the bow down canal and against the wind.  Immediately rejoining the canal we passed under the HS2 viaduct which is very impressive and quite a thing of beauty in its own way.  Thereafter, for us, a routine run to Cowley.  The wind was again a trouble fighting to get the bows into a restricted mooring spot.  Again, a long reverse was necessary to drive in under full control.  Arrival time 16:30.  10 hour day!

Grand Union Canal:Kings Langley

Thursday 17th

Another lovely warm sunny day, at least to start with, then clouding over by early evening.  Really a straightforward run leaving our overnight mooring at about 8:15.   We were aiming for a mooring near to Kings Langley Station to Pick up Kai who was travelling from Chatham after work.   We found one in the pound before Home Park Lock, nice and deep.  Chloe found a handy Spar convenience store on the outskirts of Kings Langley and a bit of cleaning up was done in the cratch to accommodate our visitors on Saturday.  Later we heard from Kai to say that he was caught up in a crowd on Euston Station as all trains had been cancelled due to a signal/major electric fault.   Various plans and options were considered.  Then he called again to say that he was on his intended train after all, but the only one leaving Euston at that time.  Much joy!  

Grand Union Canal:Bridge 146

The family (with the exception of Kai) arrived about 10:00 with loads of luggage in small bags together with food, mostly of the child kind, it appeared.   There was no rush to get under way, first homes needed to be found for much of it.  Eventually we got moving passing the breasted up fuel boats in the short pound by ‘The Rising Sun’.   We are passing a lot of “leave empty after use with a bottom paddle up” kind of locks which means having to fill them first.  Lock 56 bottom gate towpath side wouldn’t open fully, so the other gate needed opening to get out. One or two opposite direction boats appeared.  It’s leading up to the holiday weekend.  Then we had a telephone call to say that Kai had forgotten his house keys and was locked out at home.  No sensible alternative (a key with a neighbour would have been useful) was other than Chloe walking back to Berkhamsted and driving home with a key.  So we are moored up just before canal bridge 146 in a good spot for the rest of the day.   Tomorrow we are aiming to pick Kai up at Kings Langley so this will be another short day, then the day after a mammoth 9 hours to Cowley, with with a full crew.

Grand Union Canal:Berkhamsted

At about 9:15 this morning I got an email from Canal and River Trust to say that the navigation was now open and that the repair to the lock gate had been completed.  It just remained for the canal to be filled up again and the padlock and chain removed from gate 40.  I decided to move to the lock mooring in anticipation of being able to go.  Letting water down took a little while. Meanwhile I was joined by nb Totoro and when the padlock came off we started off together and continued in fact nearly all the way to Berkhamsted.  Starting the descent from Cowroast I was not on best form for some reason and we all got a bit “tangled up” at one stage, with no real plan, however it soon all settled down.  There was a huge volume of water following us down the hill with lock gates weiring  making opening bottom gates just that more difficult.  There seems no obvious reason for this as we took was just just one lock full form the top.  Down at Berkhamsted at the shopping moorings, water was periodically flooding the towpath.   Having done my shopping I thought it only polite to leave the shopping moorings and move on.  However, firstly it started raining and secondly I had to descend the next lock and have three goes to find a satisfactory mooring.  I seem to recall having a thought that it is prudent to accept the first mooring you come to instead of hoping that there is a ”better one” further on.  There usually isn’t. 

Grand Union Canal:Marsworth (Day 3)

Well, I’m still here!  I walked up to Lock 44 first thing and then at lunch time, but no sign of any work done or in preparation.  So it’s starting to look very gloomy for our proposed family trip to Limehouse.  This the last opportunity my daughter and family will have.   If I am not moving my lunchtime tomorrow to arrive at Berkhamsted that evening, then as Wednesday was to be an 8 hour day to Hunton Bridge, Thursday to Cowley and Friday to Brentford, all long days and 60 locks to do in that time, it is just not reasonably possible.   Bear in mind that the canal here leaks so badly and is mostly empty now between here and lock 43, once the repair is done there is still likely to be delay.

The last of the liquid from the beef casserole made a lovely soup lunch.  Tonight I will have to fall back on the frozen ready meals as I was expecting to visit the supermarket at Berkhamsted today.

I 8

Grand Union Canal:Marsworth (day 2)

Late yesterday I learned that lock 44 in the Marsworth flight has been rendered unusable with a broken collar.  This means that the whole gate can potentially fall into the canal.  The collar is like the top hinge of a door.  So I’m going nowhere.  I went and had a look (see picture). Apparently today the ‘team’ has been to look with a view to preparing a risk assessment pondering how best to fix it.  Actually I’m sure they know how to fix it but just need to get the kit there.  I look forward to progress tomorrow but if there is further delay the time table for getting to Limehouse on Saturday will have to be reviewed.  I got the solar panels up but it was mostly cloudy so still had to run the engine for a couple of hours.  Generally just pottered around, bit of cleaning here or there. Heated up my beef casserole for the third day etc.  

Yes, the weather did change and it rained.

Grand Union Canal : Marsworth

After a standard Saturday breakfast I set off at 07:30, a bit later than usual.  First was Linslade lock with its beautiful new gates.  At Grove Lock I met up with Ann and Jeremy on Wild Swan and we continued as a pair for a little while until catching up with a single and there was a bit of swapping , so I had a new partner, then lost him again only to pair with Wild Swan again just to do the swing bridge.  Another pairing followed then finally on my own again for the Marsworth flight bottom lock after which I moored for the night.  It has been a lovely warm day. The swans are nesting with their attendant ‘husbands’ on guard.  One canoeist I saw being escorted with the swan looking menacing with its wings slightly up.  Weather wise we have had pretty much unbroken sunshine for almost two weeks, but now it looks as if there is a front moving in.  I am now within half a day of Berkhamsted where I am due to meet the family, so can really slow down.  Tomorrow I aim to just cross the summit and then tie up and get some cleaning up done.

Grand Union Canal: Soulbury 3 Locks

Today was really all about the long cruise on the level through Milton Keynes.  The lock at Fenny Stratford which has a swing bridge in the centre had to be negotiated then I continued on the Willow Bridge Marina stopping there for diesel.   Next was Stoke Hammond Lock (photo) the first on the way uphill for the canal to eventually cross the Chiltern Hills.   The Soulbury 3  locks  alongside the pub of the same name  are  all  very  close  together.  Generally  there are lock-keepers on duty.   Arriving  at  the  bottom there  was  activity  above.  An electric community boat  was being tested  to see if it could reliably make the journey from its recently electrically wired up charging base to Three Locks and back.  The plan apparently is to go up two of the three locks, wind and then return. This caused me  some  delay.  I moored  up  on  some  piling  half  way  to  the  Globe  PubStoke Hammond approach

Grand Union Canal:Bridge 75

Thursday 10th April

Overcast first thing and sill cold.  First thing a cruise and then the Blisworth Tunnel.  I must have gradually got chilled to the core because before entering the tunnel I started uncontrolled shivering.  In my imagination the tunnel was slightly warmer and on emerging it did feel warmer.  I reached the top of the Stoke Bruerne flight at about 10:30 and moored briefly to put on my windlass belt and lock friendly shoes.  After I had filled the lock a couple appeared from below which was fortunate as there is a lock bridge which spoils my usual way of exiting GU locks when descending, that of roping the boat thought the open gates to enable me to shut the gate and then quickly descend the stairs to jump on as it drifts by.  Now I could dump my coat.  There’s nothing like a bit of exercise to warm up.  The next lock needed topping up and an upcoming boat appeared below in time to stop me needing to deal with that gate.  Then it all got difficult and nothing went to my plan.  Other boats were complicating my preferred way of doing things.  Finally at lock 19 it appeared that the towpath side ground paddle could not be fully closed.  Something was jamming it.  I poked about with the pole, but couldn’t detect an obstruction.  So I just accepted it and carried on.  Once the lock was empty there was still water coming in, but not enough to prevent me opening the bottom gate with some difficulty.  I reported it.  Over time it will lead to loss of water from the pound above.

Reaching the bottom I continued on finally reaching my target, Bridge 75, at 16:25, a day of 9hrs 15 mins.  So still on track.  I have today done the 3057 yard Blisworth Tunnel, crossed the Iron Trunk Aqueduct over the Great OUse River and passed the Wolverton Railway Carriage works where my paternal ancestors worked.   There's some nice metal piling just after the bend and before the Bridge

Grand Union Canal:Stowehill

Frost on the boat roof this morning and cold fingers and toes setting off, early as usual.  However things soon warmed up and there’s nothing like a lock flight for getting the circulation going.  The bottom gate for the Braunston Flight was already open for me.  Volunteer lock keepers were appearing but I was on my own.  Two locks had obstructions behind the open gates on the towpath side necessitating the opposite gate be opened to avoid damage.  Lock 4 would appear to be leaky because the pound above was well down and being on my own I was not wanting to get stuck mid pound.  So I let one lock full down from above to replace that which I was about to take.  This enabled careful progress.   Then the tunnel.  I hate Braunston Tunnel because it is crinkly and worse just when to need to pass another boat.  At Norton top lock I teamed up with a charming couple on a hire boat before continuing on to stop for the night just round the corner after the long embankment at Weldon, and just before Stowehill Wharf.

Oxford Canal:Willoughby

I got to the boat today at around 12:15.  Just a few things to add to the inventory and then I was off.  I’m a day ahead of the plan (see previous post) to make sure of being in the right place to pick up Chloe and the children (and Willow). Only just an hour and three quarters to a mooring that we know well within striking distance to Braunston and in a good position to start the 7 locks uphill in the morning.  It has been a lovely day with hazy sunshine and warmer than of late.  Today then, just a gross clean up, but the boat does need a good going through (as they say).  Got here about 3pm, so just put one solar panel up to keep the batteries topped up.  The electric shore power link up to an internal feed from the 1kW “camping” power bank has been completed, so I can now run the microwave cooker (and toaster) without draining my domestic batteries.  Had a lovely Cod Mornay with veggies for supper with a slice of lemon cheesecake.  Oh! And 300ml Sauvignon Blanc.