UK Canals - Journey reports

Kennet & Avon Canal:Theale

No point in leaving too early as Theale is not far, just 3 locks and a couple of bridges or so, two of them mechanised, and so we left at 8:00.   Not ideal in some ways, because it's rush hour and traffic is heavy on the roads, however, needs must.   A couple of river sections here, so speed is thrilling, even at low revs.   Drifting into Theale moorings we struck gold.   It's about half a mile to the station, but just one stop in Reading, then Paddington and home.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Towney Lock

This was supposed to be a short day to position the boat on a 48 hour mooring and be able to access a railway station easily for a quick overnight at home.   So we set off late to be able to access the pumpout facility at Greenham Boat Services.   The river was running fast through Newbury Town Bridge but was no problem after holding well back in the lock tail to pick up Pat.   Sadly, when we got to the boat services wharf, the place was closed, but the sign said that Tuesday was like any other, Business Hours 9 - 5, so we waited half an hour but to no avail.   No option therefore, but to go on to Aldermaston and get a pump out there.   A shame in a way because there was a 48 hour mooring available at Thatcham right next to the station.   By this time we had picked up a companion boat, nb Donald, with whom we had some fun, particularly me unable to pick up Pat after a lock just before a river section, when I shot out too fast and couldn't stop.   The crew was not pleased, faced with a long walk, however a stop was possible later with a lot of heavy reverse and a bit of ferry gliding the stern into the bank.   No moorings at Woolhampton, but the flow through the swing bridge, although anticipated took me a bit by surprise as the bridge is on the skew and in a flow like this the boat tends to overshoot the turn sideways on and I narrowly missed the overhanging bridge structure as Pat anticipated my clearance too early. This should emphasise the need to have the bridge open before emerging from the lock tail.   By this time we were alone, Donald having stopped for lunch, and a moored boater kindly agreed to close the lock behind me.  The bridge at Aldermaston was being worked on by engineers, but they were kind enough to work it for us.  Pat was pleased because she hates having to stop the traffic, especially here, on this busy A road.   We got our pump out and decided to moor ASAP rather than carry on and trust to luck in the morning at Theale - the last possibility.  The guy at the boatyard suggested the facilities mooring back by the CRT cafe, however we don't feel happy about that knowing how we feel when needing water and finding a long term moorer there.  (In that case we may breast up and make a point of asking if it's OK)   So we carried on and found a bank mooring where Pat could actually get off, after Padworth swing bridge.   Good actually, because we could run the engine late to get as much battery charging in hand for the morning.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Newbury

Took the Kintbury waters before setting off.   Then the longish pound to Deweats Lock.   After Copse Lock the river joins.   At the next lock we met a French family camping lockside, Mum Dad and three children on a cycling/camping break from Reading.   They were breaking camp to return to Newbury and thence Reading by train.   They passed us later just as we were approaching Newbury swing bridge, Dad leading with a bike trailer, then three small bikes and mum bringing up the rear whose bike was festooned with kit.   The last lock before Newbury had an extremely slow empty and help was needed eventually on the bottom gates.  Pat did the mechanised swing bridge and I was pleased to see that moorings were available between the bridge and the lock.   The river flow is quite strong here which caught me out a bit ans there is a weir opposite (one of several - the moorings are actually an island) and the pull was evident, so the arrival was not quite to plan but easily handled in the end with the centre rope to retrieve the boat.   We are getting adept at locating Wetherspoons as much for the decent WiFi as anything else.

Original Leeds & Liverpool type ground paddles at Newbury Lock

Kennet & Avon Canal:Kintbury

Bad weather is threatened today the weather forecasters keep telling us, so we were anxious to get on as it looked OK first thing.   Only 9 locks today, so an easy day and as it turned out most were full.  At Hungerford Marsh Lock we met an opposite direction single hander happy to have help.

Hungerford Marsh Lock with the swingbridge open

 He told Pat he had had a frustrating previous day with a mob handed hire boat, the crew of which left him to do most of the work but slowing him down in insisting on mooring up everywhere.  He probably never realised how lucky he was because Pat and I did the swingbridge which I would challenge anyone to do single handed.   Not long after Hungerford we reached Kintbury, the previous lock worked cheerfully for us by an opposite direction pair waiting to come up.   Plenty of mooring.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Froxfield Locks

Ostensibly a shortish day today, but 19 locks!   The three remaining Wootton Rivers Locks seemed to take longer than usual, although one defective top paddle might have been the reason.  After the tunnel, the Crofton Flight is all “leave empty”, so extra work turning them round.   At least no bad feelings leaving the gates open.  No volockies either, until the end and then a request from them to help retrieve a boat broken away from its moorings.   At lock 60 by the pumping station from which black smoke was appearing as they prepared for a “steam day”, there was a small crowd gathering.  It seems they were expecting a steam train to pass shortly, so we waited in the lock for it.  It was going at speed all over in a few seconds.   Moving on we eventually found a good bit of piling on which to moor below Oakhill Down Lock.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Wootton Rivers

Light rain first thing but slowly brightened up as the day went on.  Cold though and the fire got lit again.   The 16 mile pound from Devizes to Wootton Rivers is shallow in places and with batches of moored boats making slow going.  It took just over 6 hours.   The pub moorings at Horton Bridge were empty, no doubt the source of the couple of hire boats we passed returning to base.  These moorings make a good last night’s stop.   The moorings at All Cannings were full of the kind of boats you expect to see on long term moorings and were extended into the grass banks in contrast to when we passed the other way.   The sad thing to find was at Honeystreet which in my previous

The (for sale) Barge Inn at Honeystreet

experiences was always a “honeypot” on the 16 mile pound centred around the imposing Barge Inn.   Moorings were hard to get and the outside tables and colourful umbrellas were busy with passing trade and overnighters.  This time the place is up for sale and looks forlorn.   There is plenty of mooring but nowhere to go.  One towpath notice advises that this is a “quiet zone”.  I guess it is now!   Pressing on we passed Pewsey Wharf, site of our last overnight stop and decent moorings were available.  A large Union Jack was flying from the main building there and I was convinced it was upside down, but the wind was light and it didn’t unfurl completely to be sure.  The broad white should be uppermost against the flagpole, not the red of St Patrick’s cross.   Up one lock at Wootton Rivers (leave empty) and there was a handy bit of hard mooring with rings.  The notice says “Visitor Mooring 1 day”, but there is a water point (leaking very badly) and no sign saying “Water point 1/2 hour max”, so we reckon we are good here.   

Kennet & Avon Canal:Devizes

Caen Hill is comprised of three lock flights, first from the bottom is Foxhangers, then the 15 locks up the steep hill, then a further locks of the Devizes Flight.   There’s nothing special about the locks, just their number and the heavy double gates.   We reached the Foxhangers shortly after leaving Sells Green and had seen off the 7 by 9:00.   The 15 locks of Caen Hill proper looked deserted.  No sign of any volunteer lock keepers, so we started up on our own.

The picture shows the hill from the top Foxhangers Lock.   With a flight that this everything is terribly repetitive and we find after a short while we lose count of where we are and just keep the routine going.   However, by about the 5th, a lock-keeper appeared and was able to give a hand, not that it speeds anything up because that is dependent on the speed the lock fills, but it does reduce the running about.  About 5 or 6 from the top we met up with a cavalcade of descending boats, first a pair and then a very smart broad beam hotel boat, another pair and a single.   As the locks are so close together we thought it easiest to park in the single boat lay-by on the towpath side while the others passed, leaping up one lock ourselves each time.  Then suddenly we are at the top. Just another 6 to go to the very top.   A trip boat had just come down to turn and return, so we took the opportunity to use all the empty locks.  After all they had a huge crew!   It was an overcast day with a few light showers in the morning but enough to wet the grass cuttings and spread them all over the back of the boat.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Sells Green

A delayed arrival here where we wait patiently for tomorrows ascent of Caen Hill.

We stopped for water at the top of Bradford on Avon Lock, then carried on past the lines of moored boats on tickover.   Gradually sections of virgin canal appeared, first small lengths, then longer.  At the bottom of Semington we came to a halt.   The pound above had been partially drained to enable inspection of the wing walls of the lock above marooning a hire boat in the process.   Apparently the walls are bulging and appear unstable.   A collapse could appear at any time we gathered and the wall really needs to be taken down and rebuilt, a bit like the one on the Napton Flight a couple of years back.   Actually we were only held up for an hour, but at Seend Locks there was more of a delay behind some disorganised boats ahead, one a German holiday crew with little experience and speaking litle english.   Difficult for Pat trying to explain how things should be done.   The day had started overcast with a cold wind, but by the time we reached Sells Green we were basking in warm sunshine again.  Once more we were terribly lucky with a good mooring.  Chairs out - a beer, and a nap in the sun.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Bradford on Avon

Now we start our journey home.  First three locks at Bath.  These are quite deep locks, but fill reasonably quickly, the boat roped up and both of us lockside with Pat ahead.   Then the long drag to Bradford on Avon past all the moored boats.   Actually, not as bad as expected there are actually some spots without moored boats.   Bathhampton was fully moored up, although most of the boaters there would still be in bed!   At our first swing bridge a boat was waiting.   It was a single hander asking if we would let her through.   Of course, no problem.    Then we came to Dundas Aqueduct.

On the Dundas Aqueduct looking north

  There are beautiful views along this part of the canal as it transits along a shelf along the Avon Valley closely followed by the railway line. Here the canal crosses the valley only to cross back again at Avoncliffe further on.   However, before Avoncliffe we came up against a boat ahead that was behaving erratically and moving very slowly.  Veering from left to right, mostly left, and heading directly into the left bank on a number of occasions hitting it with an audible bang.    So slow that we had to drop out of gear for the most part.   Then it aimed for the right bank and the helmsman stepped off, then as the bows drifted across the canal, almost as an afterthought picked up a stern rope and brought the front under control.   We shot past at this point with no acknowledgement.   Drunk or stoned?    We pitied the moored boats we met further on.   Then, after Avoncliffe we reached Bradford on Avon.    We found a mooring below the lock and a recce suggested it was busy up top, so we will stay here.   Bradford on Avon Lock is one of the busiest on the whole system, so better first thing in the morning.   We anticipate Caen Hill Locks (all 29) on Thursday.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Bath

Staying put today.  The coal bags I had on the roof (“Red”) have leaked black water and the resulting mess has stripped the paint.   Thought it was a good opportunity to do a first aid repair.  However,  a sunny day makes the roof to hot to paint.  It got a good rub down though and a needed trip to the guildhall market to obtain some more red oxide primer.   Rain is forecast, so paint will have to wait.   Tomorrow we set off on our journey home, planning to go via Brentford and the GU.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Bath

After an evening of buzzing Bristol, loud music from ghetto blasters and excellent buskers pleasing the crowds sitting on the harbour wharf side it was time to go.  The water level was down 6 inches overnight and I reckon we would have got under Princes Street bridge with no problem but taking no chances reversed the fan into the rear hatch.   Then we were off.  Netham Lock-keeper had been forewarned and the lock was opened for us as we approached, however there was a fast flow of water into the floating harbour as the level was being brought up.   It’s quite long cruise up to Hanham Lock.  Sam was at the helm for this trip - his first real experience under “tuition” as was a very quick learner.  Hanham Lock, just a small rise, then Keynsham Lock which was against us.  As we rose, two hire boats appeared at the top to descend.   We were to see them again later in the day.   Thereafter locks were ours most with bottom gates open or emerging vessels.   Feeling the need for diesel we stopped at Bath Marina and Caravan Park.  There is a riverside service wharf which is very convenient and we received cheerful and willing service.  Arriving in Bath a couple of hours earlier than expected we decided to take our guests up the first three locks onto the canal to reprise our previous mooring.   Once we worked out that Bath Deep Lock is a side fill, no problems. Our guests returned to Bristol from the nearby railway station and we later returned there to the nearby restaurants, more particularly “Giraffe” which we would be happy to return to.   On each of the way there and back, passing the deep lock, we found boaters with both top and bottom paddles open unaware that the pound above was rapidly draining down.  

Bristol

Our first lock down from the mooring was a bit of a struggle with the gates.  Pat, still recovering from he back problems could just not close up after we had come down, and the big deep lock next was also difficult to open because of badly leaking bottom gates.   The bottom gates which are, of course massive for this 19 foot drop, now have winding gear to open and close.   Once of the river we made good progress.  The flow was not strong.   We needed a pump out so thought Saltford Marina would be a good spot, but no service there.  Instead we should have stopped higher up on the pontoon before the marina entrance for Bath Marina.   Avon river locks are a bit larger than the canal and landings are short and in many cases affected by the weirs.  I would not want to try these in any kind of strong stream condition.   Arriving at Hanham where we leave C&RT waters we studied the notices carefully and telephoned Netham Lock Keeper as instructed.   He would be on the lookout for us with our paperwork partly completed in anticipation.   A good ride down.  We were at low tide, so no real flows to contend with above Netham Weir.   A very helpful lock-keeper who gave us lots of information about the practicalities of visiting the harbour.  Plenty of mooring available.  Princes bridge is very low but can be swung if booked, however we just reversed our only high roof object, the fan, to sit in the hatch. There is, btw, a gauge for this bridge at Netham, so a swing of Princes Bridge can be booked ahead if needed.  This was fine.   We took the pontoon below Arnolfini just on the entrance to St Augustine’s Reach and decided to reverse in.  The wind had picked up and the bow thruster was playing up so we got in a slight mess trying to avoid a very expensive looking cruiser on the end of the pontoon.   The harbourmasters launch was there in a flash and acted as a tug pushing our bow in for us as we were potentially blocking the traffic, which is busy!   The moorings are secure with electricity (card) and water.   With hindsight don’t bother to buy an electricity card in the first place.  There is usually some credit on the points when you arrive, and narrowboats don’t generally use very much at all unless you are an all electric boat of course.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Bath

Very short day made slightly longer by swing bridge, moored boats and then some locks.  Our concern was finding somewhere to moor, but in fact because we are still early season there was plenty of room, both above the locks and halfway down between locks 10 & 11.   We needed to stay for two days to attend a function on Saturday evening and our choice was perfect.  Quiet with some grass and easy access to the nearby road.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Bathampton

We were expecting a slow crawl from now on due to an anticipated continuous line of moored boats, however, whilst this was what we found from Bradford on Avon to Avoncliffe, after that it was patchy and almost entirely where long term moorings had been established.  So not at all as bad as expected.  The limits, mostly 48 hours, on visitor moorings seems to be well respected so plenty of space when we arrived at Bathampton.   Of the swing bridges on this section almost all have no landings that we could identify and the one that had was towpath side, so would represent a challenge for the single hander.  There are quite a lot of hire boats on the move on this end of the canal, mostly Foxhangers and Hilperton with a smattering of Bath.  Lovely sunny day again, but a bitter wind for the most part.

Kennet & Avon Canal:Bradford on Avon

4 locks and 4 swingbridges today downhill from Seend Cleese.   Couldn’t understand why we couldn’t get TV last night but realised this morning the aerial was right under a power line!   Very gentle progress.  On just over tickover most of the time due to moored boats and then the inevitable slow progress approaching the bridge landings.   CRT had some large workboats out dealing with bank issues.   We now have a little more understanding of the “avant garde” management that was remarked on at Hampstead Lock.   Rather than use metal piling they are using a row of fat wooden stakes off the crumbled banks, then cutting the tops off at the waterline and then lining with the cloth type sheeting as used elsewhere on the system with the thinner less robust repairs.  This, backfilled with dredging gives a much stronger result suitable to be moored against.   I suppose its all to do with heritage looking more natural than sheet metal.   By the time Hilperton was passed the line of moored boats was almost continuous so we were very surprised to find a vacant mooring on the formal moorings at Bradford on Avon.   The town and shops are a short walk down the main road towards the railway station, but our target was the 13th century Tithe Barn and the gift shop in one of the outbuildings.

Kennet and Avon Canal:Devizes

Nothing much to report.   Just a straightforward cruise to Devizes all on the 16 mile pound.  Wall to wall sunshine and few other boats moving, however a significant proportion were wide beams, and more of a problem when meeting one in a bridge hole because there is a smaller amount of canal to dither in and they seem to be much slower.   Good moorings were noted at All Cannings (Br127) and Horton Bridge (for the pub).   If the pub moorings are full, past the bridge on the towpath side, though not made up the mooring seems reasonable.   We did see the white horse!

Kennet & Avon Canal:Pewsey Wharf

Blue sky and a lovely warm day in prospect.  Pat and I shared lock duties today and this worked well, alternating lockside and helm.  At Great Bedwyn we passed the hire boat that we had seen at Kintbury and at the next lock their outrunner caught up with us, so we waited for them at the next.  They were, as most hire boats are, mob handed so from there on we had it easy.  Well experienced the team worked well and we said goodbye at Wootton Rivers, the last of the locks until Devizes.   Passing Crofton Pumping house black smoke could be seen emerging from the chimney.  It is a steaming day, but passing the feeder outflow at the bottom of the flight there appeared to be no water flowing so perhaps they hadn’t got steam up yet.  Arriving at Pewsey there appeared the expected long line of moored boats with nowhere obviously to moor up.   We chose the first emerging gap, but the boat ran aground.   Moving on, the next which gave a lot of trouble, gang plank again etc.  Then we realised that nearer to the actual wharf there was metal piling and there was indeed a space for us, just hidden from the first of the line.   So we have a decent mooring after all, piling and rings.

Kennet and Avon Canal:Froxfield

It took us 1 1/2 hours to get to Kingsbury not intending to stop, but just as we were leaving Vicarage Bridge Pat announced a red light (holding tank full) so we did a smart high speed reverse back to the pump out facility.  As we reversed a hire boat left, so naturally all locks after that were full.  We passed straight through Hungerford meeting quite a few walkers out at the locks, always nice for a chat.  Hungerford Marsh lock was a bit of a horror.  There is a swing bridge right over the lock which obviously must be swung before there is room for the boat to rise.  It’s a “leave lock empty” so both bottom gates were open and paddles up, so the swing bridge was useful to deal with that especially as the bottom gates wouldn’t stay shut.  Trick here is to raise a quarter paddle at the top, then once shut attempted to swing the bridge.  It moved a bit but then jammed.  Nothing I could do would shift it so I asked Pat to come up.   She thankfully pointed out that the boat, on the quarter paddle, was already rising.   Disaster narrowly avoided!  With Pat’s help the bridge moved and all then proceeded according to plan.   More locks, then above the first Froxfield Lock we found some nice sheet piling.   Too good an opportunity to miss, so we moored up for the night.   11 locks today and I’m knackered.  19 to do tomorrow and 29 on Monday if we stick to plan!!!   We shall see.

Kennet and Avon Canal:Hamstead Lock

A lovely sunny morning with promise of warmer weather to come.  First we had a swing bridge,lock and swing bridge in short order.   Then lock after lock with swingbridges thrown in occasionally.   Most of the locks were empty for us, and virtually no other traffic except Newbury.   Longcut swingbridge was exceptionally stiff and I don’t think Pat would have managed.   The lockgear on 87 was in very poor condition, squealing and juddery.   At Greenham Lock we picked up a partner, but just for one lock, then it was Newbury bridge!.   The flow leading up to the bridge was as bad as any we had experienced thus far, and the flow through the narrow bridge required 2000 rpm to struggle through.   Thereafter the lock and swingbridge were no problem although the weir just after the swingbridge has to be watched.  A momentary lapse of concentration and it has you!   Met some local lads at Higgs Lock.  Interested and wanting to help, then they left us to it.  We really wanted to moor up for the night but although the banks looked very tidy the water was always shallow near the edge which I am not to keen about as levels are apt to change in the night and the boat ends up firmly aground.    In the end we found (along with others) a spot above Hampstead Lock.  There has been some kind of avant hard bank management here.   There is a ?wooden rail and presumably some kind of barrier behind which mud has been planted with vegetation.   The rail gives deeper water and a firm edge and provided you can jump the mud, very satisfactory.  Gang plank time!  See the photo.

Kennet and Avon Canal:Woolhampton

We left Reading aware of “yellow boards” indicating a strong stream in the river.   The next section where the flow is fast and winding is protected for one way traffic by a traffic light.  Press the button, if it turns green, good to go.  Sure progress was slow, but the boat coped perfectly, so that was one unknown resolved.  Shortly after the next lock (County Lock) there is a side stream with a strong flow entering the river.  After this things quietened down a bit.  Fobney Lock has a powerful culvert entering at right angles under the landing stage.  It was perfectly possible to stop short of this.  The lock itself is larger than usual and like others further on has gate paddles, so it is advisable to rope up well.  I have travelled this canal before but had no recognition of the many river sections previously.  Now with the strong flow coming downstream the river sections were very evident.  The most contentious was on the bend after Theale moorings, where passage slowed markedly.   However the boat goes better in deeper water and throttle settings were not unusually high.   We planned to stop at Padworth, but could find no suitable moorings and once past Padworth Lock the very busy boatyard with three abreast moored boats precluded mooring before the big lift bridge and the lock.   We eventually found some decent sheet piling on the offside after the private moorings and stopped there but then realised that we were cut off.   There was yet one major concern and we needed to be able to investigate.   That was the river cross flow before Woolhampton Lock.   A boater coming downstream had told us that the experience was exciting.  Another, perhaps more knowledgable had said that it was perfectly passable upstream but advised to keep in the stream  and turn at the last minute.   You can see the lock entrance in the photo and on the right the towpath river bridge.  The turbulence can be seen, so the trick is, coming through the swing bridge (not visible in the distance) keep to the right in the stream (right to left in the picture background), swing round to port, then coming left to right in the foreground pointing towards the river bridge before the turn.   I turned slightly too early and just glanced the downstream corner of the lock entrance but was very happy with the arrival.   We found our moorings!