UK Canals - Journey reports

River Great Ouse:Priory Marina

Quite a bit of rain overnight, but by 7:00 just the odd light shower.   At Roxton Lock we met our first set of top and bottom pointy doors.  These lock can be worked a bit faster.  Thereafter locks seemed to get deeper and more difficult to work every time until Castle Mill Lock deepest of them all really caught us out with a side fill ground paddle (or slacker as they are called here).   I spent ages trying to get a rope for and aft using the mooring rod slots in the wall (no risers) only to find, that with the side fill the boat would have been just stuck to the right hand wall without any.   At Cardington Lock, our last today, we came across the Fire and Rescue service having a practice.  This lock has a guillotine gate but seemed very narrow and indeed, checking, found it to be 3.15 metres wide.  So not big enough for two narrowboats or indeed a broadbeam more than 10ft wide.  So if the Bedford/Milton Keynes link was built then this would be a choke point.

We had booked into Priory Marina for a week in order to return home to carry out one or two obligations.   It seems well organised and we are now on a secure mooring with electricity and well set up. First night free for GOBA members.  We continue our journey next Friday.

River Great Ouse:St Neots

As a result of our diesel tank washout we were late leaving St Ives.  Our first lock was being hosted by a team from the Environment Agency as following the floods a sand bar has built up across the approach to the lock landing.  They were there trying to set up a temporary barrier to warn boaters, but had only managed thus far to set up two buoys, a red and a green, the former at the deepwater end of the bar and the green near the bank.   Now these are the colours for channel markers: keep red to port and green to starboard when going upstream, so they would direct the boater right onto the sand bar.   They didn't seem to understand what I was trying to say but just said that they were having to use whatever they had.  The weather was fine and the warmest yet but the wind was getting up again.   We had similar problems as previously controlling the boat with exposed lock landings and some curious approaches as a result. Might have to do a bit more training.   However, we made good progress and passed through St Neots to moor finally at Waterside Park for the night.

Diesel Bug

This morning we waited at the mooring for our appointment with St Ives Engine Services Ltd.  Worried about detritus from the bottom of our diesel tank getting stirred up should we have any bouncing around on the Wash next month and subsequent fuel line blockage I had requested a tank purge.   Sid Fisher, himself a ship's pilot, arrived promptly and set about setting up his kit.  He explained that the tank would be pumped out through a set of 2 micron filters, the fuel then pumped back to stir up the contents and then filtered again before finally restoring it, now cleaned and adding some serious biocide.  I was amazed at the amount of black gooey rubbish that was sucked out of the tank including a screw!

Part of the harvest from the diesel tank

  So bad was it that the whole pump got stuffed with the black stodge requiring a disassembly of the filter system to clean it all out before the tank could be fully emptied. All this inspite of using the fuel additives recommended in the narrowboat press and by the River Canal Rescue people. Whether the bio-fuel component of DERV fuel is to blame I don't know. To what extent  Considering that I had thought the process to have been a good insurance policy whether or not anything was found, I feel that this was money well spent.  The whole process took about 2 1/2 hours.

 

 

River Great Ouse:St Ives

We continued on our way to Hermitage Lock where the River becomes tidal again.   The lockkeeper must have been keeping a lookout because the approach light went green in good time.   It was Keith on duty and he furnished us with some literature and a very good EA Map.   The rise in the lock was much greater than I had expected which suggests that we were at the height of a spring tide.   Passing the entrance of the New Bedford River we found the pontoon EA Mooring for a water stop.    Then proceeded on again to Brownhills Staunch which was keeper operated today as the landing stages are under construction - only we hadn't been told and I dropped Pat and Alfie off before shooting into the lock where they were trapped.   The keeper was surprised that we had not been told.   On then to St Ives Lock which was just disgorging a cruiser as we approached.   Pat went up to work the lock but found the instrucdtion panel at the lower guillotine gate confusing as it referred to "filling" the lock but the actual instructions were for emptying it.   Once we got that over we found the EA moorings by the Dolphin Hotel Hotel and stopped there for a quick visit into town.    Well worth a longer visit and certainly very picturesque by the waterside with the unusual chapel in the middle of the narrow multiarched bridge.   Finally we moved on to Nobles Field for the rest of the day.   Lots of space for the dog to run around on.

River Great Ouse:Stretham

An early start to see how far we could get.   We made Ely in three hours.   The cathedral certainly looks magnificent from some angles.  The best view was of it towering above the trees on its little "island" with no other buildings visible.  Of course my camera was out of battery at that very point.   We stopped near the station for a Tesco visit and then left for a lunch stop further on.   The only problem was that Alfie got left behind.  I last saw him on the boat and Pat thought he was with me.  It took us 15 minutes before we realised he wasn't with us and only 10 minutes to get back.  Bless him!  He was waiting patiently in the company of another dog.    Worry over!    We continued in lovely warm weather and stopped near the old engine house at Stretham.    Tomorrow St Ives, where we have booked a diesel tank clean out.   One does not want rubbish getting shaken off the bottom of the tank and blocking the fuel filter if the sea is a bit rough out on the Wash.

River Great Ouse:Denver Sluice

Moored in the middle of nowhere with no TV or telephone signal we were clearly anxious to move on although limited by the nearby Marmot Priory Lock.   It was only 15 minutes away and at 8:00am we thought it a bit unreasonable to bother the lockkeeper.   However, the notice did say ring the bell for the lockkeeper and if unavailable to operate the lock ourselves, so at 9:00 we did telephone and she did, although originally booked for 11:00, helpfully agree to come and help us.  Thus we were on our way earlier than expected.    The MLC navigation notes did however warn that the Well Creek was narrow in places and shallow.   This proved to be the case and our speed was much slower.   No use giving more throttle, it makes no difference in shallow water.   We eventually reached the pair of villages Upwell and Outwell stretched along the waterway, very pretty with masses of bankside daffodils in bloom.

Upwell

 There is a decent public mooring at Upwell with room for about 3 narrowboats and a nearby convenience store even selling freshly baked bread.

Upwell Public Moorings

   Not so good in Outwell, and later at Nordelph not a lot that we could see.   The wind was getting up again, blowing across the waterway from the vast open fields lying below our level.    Finally we arrived at Salter's Lode with 3 hours to wait for the tide.

Waiting at Salter's Lode

  When the time came to make the crossing the lock was at a level with the tide although the lockkeeper did close the back doors anyway.  He advised full power to make the turn upstream as the tide was a weak one and the wind was blowing strongly in the downstream direction.    This worked fine, no problem and we were soon in Denver Sluice.  There is no sand bank to steer round now and the long arm excavator on the bank and piles of dredged sand are testiment to that, so it was just straight in.  Thinking that we would be locking up I was rather surprised that we went a foot down onto the river.   Plenty of moorings here.

Middle Levels:Should have been March

Yes I know it's April, but we should have been in March tonight. After a  quiet night, our booking for Stanground lock, entrance to the Middle Levels, was for 9:00. So we busied ourselves by walking the dog, chasing some rabbits (the dog) and using the Quay facilities for pump-out and water. At the appropriate time we left and meandered down to the lock where the Middle Level Lock-keeper was waiting. The lock bridge is rather low for boats locking down and he advised removing the chimney, although it transpired that it would have been no problem. He took our particulars and sold us the windlass (£10) and key (£3) which we would need and handed us a set of navigation notes. Then we set off. Our first obstacle was the renowned Briggate Bend, a 90 sharp bend in a section of narrow water which looked at first sight to be easy enough but which I failed. The water is shallow and getting the boat to turn as expected was not straight forward. It would have been better to stop and use the bow thruster. Judging by the fact that some youngsters ran to the bridge which overlooks the bend to watch, this must be a local source of entertainment. Then came Ashline Lock with its strange vertical lock sluice gear. The top gates were open for us. There is no indication as to the status so we did not notice at first that the top paddles were up, only when the water failed to fall as expected. Some hours later we arrived at Fox Marina, where we had phoned ahead to check for diesel. The entrance was narrow and the water inside a bit congested, however we found the diesel pump and we soon sorted, although Fox only supply a fixed percentage 60/40. Regaining the channel we continued the half mile or so to the town moorings only to find that a St George's Day festival was in progress and no moorings were to be had anywhere. No alternative but to carry on. Our possibilities were limited because we have a booking for Marmot Priory Lock at 11.00 tomorrow and we are not far away. Finally, after passing a large wind farm, we found a bit of bank with a rusting bit of piling and stopped, overlooked by the high banks of the dykes. Nothing to see except that tops of cars can be seen occasionally passing by. Looks like a very late start tomorrow and a slow cruise to Salters Lode for a 16:00 hrs locking onto the Great Ouse.

River Nene:Peterborough Town Quay

A quiet night and early morning frost with mist on the water.   We set off a little later than usual and our first lock, (Warmington) was a wheel job.    Elton Lock (electric) has a fierce weir at the top and the lock landing is just before it, so a wide berth!   We made steady progress and stopped in the weir stream at Alwalton Lock for lunch.

Alwalton Lock

  There are quite decent "unofficial moorings" here.    On leaving the lock we ground over a shoal in the middle of the river no doubt caused by the discharging weir to the right.   Shortly after that a bright new CEVNI direction arrow sent us down a side stream to rejoin the main river.   The sign is in the wrong place and should be on the island in the middle pointing left, not on the right bank.   Eventually we came to Peterborough Yacht Club.    Basically this is about 3/4 mile of bankside squewed pontoon moorings with only a short quayside short stay visitor mooring in front of the club house.     Pretty well all the moorings were occupied.     If we are to stay there in May for a week there will have to be some negotiation with the club.   It looked otherwise very welcoming, but nowhere for us to stop, so we continued on and now find ourselves on the Peterborough Town Quay, perfectly good moorings and only four boats, however "not recommended" by some.   We will see!  

Peterborough

The waste facilities are at the back of the squalid looking public conveniences and water/ pumpout etc yet to be tested.  We contacted Salters Lode Lockkeeper this morning and have arranged a time for the locking, although he says that there is no booking formality just turn up and go.    Also no need for us to contact Denver.   I guess the two talk to each other on the day.

River Nene:Fotheringhay

We set off early to get a bit of distance in credit. The wind had died down a bit, although it still proved troublesome at exposed lock landings. Approaching Titmarsh Lock we passed our first moving boat in over a week. The lock gates were open and the paddle up, so was he the culprit? Not that it bothered us because it saves a lot of time not having to lower the guillotine gate each time. Thus it was for the next sequence of locks. Here, the flow over the top gates was dramatic once the guillotine was raised. There is a short new EA mooring below Titchmarsh and at the next lock room for two boats probably at the King's Head pub just before the lock. At Upper Barnwell Lock there is a restored mill that looks as if it has been redesigned as a restaurant because the smell of food was inviting. We had the intention of visiting the chandlery at Oundle Marina for some odds and ends. The entrance is very narrow and points downstream, but we managed to get through and were then at a bit of a loss as to where to go, as there was no signposting and boats scattered some on pontoons all round the old gravel pit. We eventually found the diesel wharf which was short and occupied by a boat all sheeted up so access was effectively impossible. No sign of reception. So we left. Not much of an opportunity for casual mooring on the river either. Oundle Cruising Club did have space, though obviously this is private. Oundle wharf (further on after the loop in the river) looked like an overgrown backwater. At Perio Wharf we met up with Sue (nb No Problem) a fellow blogger who we have passed en route before but never the opportunity to meet in person. Having recently crossed the Wash and really enjoyed the experience there is fresh information for us on the web when we come to do the same in a month's time, but going the other way. Reaching Fotheringay we planned to stop for lunch. There are extensive bankside moorings (£4.00 per night). As we stopped, the rain started and looked to be setting in so we decided to stay here the night. Actually, the rain was just a passing rain band and stopped after an hour, but we were cold and the boat cabin was cosy so here we are!

River Nene:Thrapston

Our moorings overnight at Wellingborough were nearest to the road bridge and were very noisy. Best to avoid if possible although one might be slightly closer to Tesco. It was a stormy night with gusting wind, though no rain. The forecast was for strong winds to continue through the morning easing in the afternoon. We thought about staying put for 24 hours, but decided in the end to make a late start and try and complete the schedule aiming for Thrapston with Irthlingborough as an option if the wind proved too troublesome. We made Irthlingborough without too much trouble and stopped for lunch at the extensive 48 hour moorings before deciding to continue on. At Upper Ringstead Lock we met our first "wheel". Get a good speed up on the wheel and the guillotine gate drops faster than the electric version, however, it is a bit tiring on the shoulders and perhaps slower to wind up again. Mostly the wind was at our backs and not too troublesome until, that is, we arrived at Woodford Lock where a strong crosswind made it impossible to get onto the lock landing having screwed up the approach. There was nothing for it but to jam the bows into the gate triangle and wedge the boat across the lock throat. Actually no problem but maybe a bit unconventional.

Islip Mill Moorings

  The moorings at Thrapston (on the Islip side) are tucked away in a corner alongside the bridge and with only room for two short boats and one narrowboat already there we gave it a miss. Past Islip lock there are some decent 48 hour moorings by the marina which did us fine.  Wellingborough to Irthlingborough 2 hours and 4 more hours to Islip Mill

River Nene:Wellingborough

No let up in the wind but not so cold.  The forecast does not suggest real improvement until at least the end of the week, so if we are to complete our plans we really need to get on, although the wind does make standing on the back less pleasant and working the locks more difficult as the boat blows all over the place.  Other boaters thought we were mad when they saw us making preparations to leave.  Maybe.   First, however we needed to get off our mooring and turn into wind with very little room to manoeuvre.  I had discussed this previously with Michael, our Cutweb friend, and the plan was to secure the centre rope onto a cleat on the next pontoon finger and then just ease the boat forward and let it turn mooring up across the ends of three.   This worked perfectly and enabled the water hose to reach the front.  The next challenge was to take the boat all the way round the moorings for a pumpout, not to difficult getting there but reversing out in the wind might be difficult.   As it happened the pumpout hose was too short and it was necessary to turn the boat anyway.   Eventually we left the marina and experienced far fewer problems than expected although frankly the gusting wind gave us windburn in the end and wasn't particularly comfortable. Strangely, all the first few locks had a top gate open whereas the instructions are for them to be left empty with the guillotine up.   This saved us a lot of time.

Wellingborough moorings:Lots of neat grass for Alfie to crap on, large flour mills to the right.

 Good moorings at Wellingborough and the nearby Tesco a boon.

Snowdonia Interlude

Another trip to the Welsh Highland Railway for a route inspection.   Basically this means riding the train and reporting anything of note.

Approaching Bryn y Felin bridge:Aberglaslyn pass.

Billing Aquadrome

We are resting here for a few days gently oscillating in the strong cross wind at the end of a short pontoon.  There is a good bus service to Northampton not far away and all the other things of interest already mentioned.  We had a quick browse round the 4x4 show.   Mostly all terrain vehicles racked up on stands at 45 degrees and folks dress in military fatigues as well as a few bimbos.

Grand Union Canal:Northampton Arm

The sky was becoming blue as we left our mooring with two locks to negotiate before reaching Stoke Bruerne itself.    Much to our surprise a boat was emerging from the lock above as Pat was setting the lock for us.  That was all we saw moving all day apart from one boat later on the Northampton Arm.  We had the tunnel to ourselves and stopped at Gayton Junction for water, then a few minutes later at Gayton Marina to buy an Environment Agency Key for the Nene.   We met our Capped Heron friends as they were disembarking after their weeks holiday and they seemed happy with their adventure in spite of the poor weather.   A friendly welcome in the marina office too and once the paperwork was done (the keys are individually numbered and registered £10.00) we had our key.  The key looks very flimsy of an unusual design, but we need it for the electric guillotine locks.   Then we set off down the 17 locks to Northampton, the first 13 close together as a flight.  They are single locks, but the lock handrails and lack of stepping boards make jumping the gates impossible, so a long walk round to open both gates.  As usual, Pat was one lock ahead getting that ready, so then there was also the problem of closing up after.   I found that it was possible to get a rope around the handrail of one gate and pull it shut from the boat, so that it was only necessary to get off on one side to go up and shut the other.    Again the lock geometry in most cases did not allow easy access to both sides from below without moving the boat around.  However this worked well enough to fulfill the requirement that the boat should always be moving (almost).    At Lock 13 things changed.   The locks are now 1/2 to 3/4 miles apart and the pounds shallow and full of dead cut rushes.   These accumulate  in the lock throats and on the bows to produce a large mat slowing the boat further.   Our progress dropped dramatically, so much so that we were at risk of missing our scheduled arrival at Billing Marina where we have booked for 4 nights.  The canal had a look of dereliction and desperately in need of some maintenance.   I am sure that the local team do their best, but really the whole section to Lock 17 needs dredging and bank clearance to eliminate this problem for the future.   Fortunately it is not our intention to return this way.   The area around Lock 17 is not pretty in spite of a lot of new residential accommodation blocks with some cut grass "gardens".   It seriously needs tidying up - not CaRT's problem.   It does not have to look like this.   Once on the River our speed picked up instantly and we soon found ourselves at Lock 1 ttrying to open the strange gate locks with our new key.  It took a little while to work out and also the hundred or so winds for the sluices.   This did not auger well for future progress.   However, we were pleased to find no locks on gates further on and indeed many were open in our favour.    The scenery is much more open here and the wind can blow unhindered, so at some of the locks were were having considerable difficulty mooring up for access.   The landings are not condusive for a straight in approach, but are often set back requiring considerable manoeuvering for a narrowboat.   The electrically powered guillotine gates also seemed to take ages.     Finally arriving at the marina at 15:45 we welcomed by our friends and were soon equipped with our gate passes, electricity cards and access permits for the many attractions at this large site.  It is really like a large holiday camp, but leaning towards caravans and camping but with holiday cabins on sale too.   This weekend is a 4x4 and militaria rally.  After some hours drinking and chatting we returned to our boat for a supper of fish and chips.

Grand Union Canal:Stoke Bruerne

It was raining when we woke and continued to do so, so serious wet gear was called for.  It seems to be a fact that once this is deployed, the rain will stop.   It did.   We stopped at Wolverton for more shopping and passed Cosgrove heading for Stoke Bruerne.   Alfie then fell in.   I was nonchalantly leaning on the tiller minding my own business when this dog swam by wearing a high viz life jacket.  Strange I thought.  That looks like Alfie.  He must have fallen off the front of the boat.  There had been no sound of course and he was very lucky to have been spotted as a moment's distraction and I would have missed him.  With sheet piling on the bank there is no way he would have got out and within 15 minutes or so would have died of hypothermia.   We met up with Capped Heron again at the bottom of Stoke Bruerne flight and moored up in the long pound near the top.   Beef casserole tonight!

Grand Union Canal:Giffard Park

Another grey misty drizzly morning. We soon got to Leighton Buzzard and the canalside Tesco where Pat needed to shop for some stores. The drizzle stopped. Moving on, we passed the Alvechurch boat we were with yesterday at the top of the Soulbury 3 Locks. Volunteer Lock keepers were in attendance and it immediately became apparent that the Capped Heron was to join us. We had an easy ride down. The gossip[ was that the hire fleets are having a very hard time with bookings down. Perhaps we just need a bit of warm weather and everyone will forget about the cold. The hire boat needed water, so we carried on through Stoke Hammond lock and reached Willowbridge where we often stop for fuel. Today was no exception and the purchase of three bags of solid fuel should guarantee warm weather. We encountered a number of Wyvern Boats in bridge holes causing some to go aground (as often happens when they throw the boat into reverse and lose steerage). Then nb Ariadne was found in the middle of the canal and another Wyvern was nudging it to the side where some kind hearted boaters rescued it and resecured the mooring. There was plenty of mooring at Giffard Park where, shortly after stopping the heavens opened. Rain is forecast overnight and showers tomorrow.

Grand Union Canal:Grove Lock

Today the weather forecasters promised a grey day with rain this afternoon.  In fact it has been quite pleasant with weak sunshine and less of the cold wind of later.  From Berkhamsted we had the canal to ourselves until lunchtime when we met a Wyvern boat trying to get out of the bottom pair of Marsworth Locks.  They couldn't open the gates no matter how many tried.  Opening the ground paddles solved the problem. "We didn't know you had to do that".  At Ivinghoe we paired up with an Alvechurch boat until Grove Lock where we stopped.  We took water at Bulbourne and I was shamed by the mess left by a seat near the water point.  These people must believe in fairies, because they know that mysteriously, probably in the dead of night, the rubbish will disappear.  No concept of taking care of their own mess.  Should we have cleaned it up?   If we had somewhere to put it, probably yes!

Snowdonia Interlude

While the south had grey skies and drizzle, Snowdonia had freezing cold almost gale force wind early in the day up at 600 feet.  However the sun was seen from time to time and in sheltereed placess it didn't seem too bad.   The air was slightly misty or smoky giving a sort of out of focus look to the scenery.  Snow still remains in the mountains giving the area an alpine feel.  

Looking down the Gwrfai Valley

   Here are threee views taken whilst undertaking a routine railway track inspection for the Welsh Highland Railway.  Trains run twice daily from Caernarfon to Porthmadog.

 

 

 

 

Snowdon seen from the summit of the Welsh Highland Railway

Snowdon again from slightly lower

Grand Union Canal:Berkhamsted

Another cold and frosty morning with pale blue sky.   Set off at 7.00 am and made steady progress with virtually no other boats moving until Fisheries, then Winkwell.    There is quite a lot of water about, with gates overtopping and the rivers running well, but no real difficulties encountered save Sewer Lock where the bottom gates were found a bit leaky and there was suspicion that the offside ground paddle didn't work.   Lots of bankside folk about, cyclists, runners, walkers, fishermen and kids willing to help with gates.   Plenty of moorings available.  We passed the Crystal Palace pub and moored on the Waitrose side above lock 53.  Possibly quieter.

Grand Union Canal:Hunton Bridge

The first day of our summer cruise.    A blue sky to start, though it soon started to cloud over and the wind was icy.  We had a straight run through to Rickmansworth where of course we spent an hour in Tesco getting stocked up for the week.  There are accessible supermarkets all the way as far as Berkhamsted, so it's not critical, but Ricky is good because we can moor right up to the store and cart the bags back to the boat.    Lots of towpath activity beyound Ricky and of course Ironbridge Lock was well populated with gongoozlers.   Both Cassio and Ironbridge have brand new gates with gate paddles at last which will speed up these notoriously slow locks.   The offside gates paddles at Ironbridge, however, would not wind down completely.  Possibly something is stuck in there behind the baffles.    Quite a few boats on the move, but apart from Cassio Lock we had no companions.   We moored up past Hunton Bridge on the straight nearer to the railway line in the sunshine with a good TV picture on the small stick aerial.   The picture is probably coming from the Hemel repeater which is polarised differently and were we using the standard aerial would have meant reconfiguring it - a tedious business.  The stick doesn't seem to mind.    In the picture you can see some new build apartments in the background.  I wonder if they were cheap because of the proximity of the West Coast Mainline.  I doubt it.  I can barely hear the trains inside the boat.

Harefield

I reversed back up to Little Venice rather than carry on and turn in the basin.    Not sure really if it was any quicker, but it worked out OK.   Then we set off for Harefield.   Very little other traffic moving, certainly less than 10 boats.    Grey skies and a bitter wind so much that inspite of many layers of clothing we had to take it in turns to go below to get warm.    We arrived back about 2.30pm, got diesel and some more solid fuel (only Excel left) as we anticipate this cold weather continuing for the rest of the month.

 

I am still concerned about the battery situation.  Some may say that with TV all evening and a fridge freezer to keep working we have a high demand.  The Smartgauge is telling me that in the morning we have as little as 30% battery capacity left and on one morning the toaster caused the voltage to fall below 11 volts triggering the built in alarm.   It is taking over 6 hours of engine running to get anywhere near 100% charge with expected amperage numbers during this time.   Yesterday we didn't use the TV and we were only down to about 60% in the morning.  The solar panels are fine in the summer - sort of, but I really need something that will trickle charge for 24 hours if we are moored up for a few days.  It just doesn't seem right to keep running the big engine.