UK Canals - Journey reports

Harefield

Theoretically I need not have booked Thames Lock Brentford as the lock-keeper would have been on duty anyway at 8:00 am.  However, the tidal window would close at 8:40 (ish) and to give a little more room for error I booked for 7:30.   The tidal journey takes about an hour, so we left the moorings (£8.00 overnight) and hovered.  There were three other boats, one anxious to have a bit of company, so we dawdled once on the tideway, making about 4 mph without much effort.  By the time we reached Brentford we had cut power and were still making nearly 6mph.  It had been a 7M plus tide at London Bridge.  Sure enough, Kate the lock-keeper had the lock ready for us.   It had taken an Hour.   We joined nb Mona May in the lock and as it happened, continued up to Harefield with them.  They also moor at Harefield.

Having exited the Gauging Locks we were not surprised to find nowhere to moor in the Brentford Basin.  It seems that the moorings here are always occupied with long stayers, and the bank between the railway bridge and the A4, a much more pleasant mooring incidentally, has become the norm for overnighters.   Here we picked up Sam as additional crew for the climb up Hanwell and beyond, I being fearful that the broken toe would seriously hamper our progress.   As it transpired, with the additional person and the two boats, we fairly shot up the flight hampered only by the extreme shallows and weed growth in the Brent Navigation and the one dodgy lock in the Hanwell Flight that has leaky walls draining out into the side pond and one ground paddle U/S.

Teddington

Just a few rowers out when we left Maidenhead at 6:50.  Bray and Cleeve Locks must have received some Olympic money because there was some fancy electronic signage at the layby displaying "messages".  The lock signage has been renewed also, but although it is very pretty, not any good when viewed from a distance.  Black and green merge with the background.  These two locks and Romney Lock were all self service being before 9:00 am.  However, Bell Weir was also on self service and worse - the power had failed and it was hand wind or nothing.  Fortunately 4 boats had pitched up with the delay and there was ample muscle power available.   It is a big lock and just raising and lowering the sluices is hard work.   Rapid progress from then on with lots of small boats, canoes and sailing training schools out on the water in the Teddington Reach.   Overnight mooring is now £8 for us at Teddington.  We are due out at 6.00 in the morning.

Maidenhead

I divided the journey back from Oxford to  in three which gave me Pangbourne, Maidenhead and Teddington for an overnight there with a 6:30 departure for Harefield on the tide.   Thus this afternoon we ar at Maidenhead again.   It was a chilly (when you're standing on the back of a boat it is) morning, overcast and finally producing a brisk shower.  Then the sun appeared and it was suddenly hot.   Reading must be getting ready for the festival because the whole area was surrounded by a high solid fence outside of which was a secondary chain link fence with a sterile area between with lighting.   This looks as if it is mined but I couldn't see any watch towers on the perimeter.    This was in contrast to the remains of a rock festival just downstream of Henley which was much more open, though still fenced.   Unfortunately we must have got the tail end of traffic from that because the lock queues were longer than anything I have seen for a long time.   Nevertheless we arrived at Maidenhead  at the right time and took up the same mooring we had there previously.

Pangbourne Meadow

Pat had the lock ready before I left the mooring. The first 3 locks We had to ourselves self service. Flows are down now the river has widened out, but We made good progress. A nearby moored boat meant that We had to do the Pumpout at Abingdon wrong sided a.d the pipe was bearly long enough. No moorings available at Wallingford for shopping as We had hoped. Next opportunity was Pangbourne where fortunately We did find space.

Osney Bridge yet again

We had not intended to stop here today.  As we are on our way home now the idea was to stop at Abingdon then Reading.  However, the Toe, injured yesterday and not painful was still bleeding a sign of more serious problems.  It was considered safest, therefore, by Pat (and I couldn't help but agree) that I should present myself at A&E at the John Radcliffe.   We set off at 7:30, did 3 locks self service and arrived at the bridge in a very strong stream about 2 hours later.  The only obvious mooring was in front of a small cruiser.  The procedure for mooring stern upstream worked a treat, i.e. go into reverse to remain staionary in the required position, nudge the stern towards the bank and the boat moves sideways into the mooring slot attaching the stern rope first.  "Tapper" the owner of the boat in front (called Tapper) emerged to express relief, having has a number of near collisions already with boats attempting to moor in this strong stream.  He believes that this is all due to water draw off by a turbo-electric project at the old mill.  I am not so sure.  There is a lot of water coming down anyway and the channel here is very narrow.

Radio Cars Oxford 01865 242424 provided a very rapid response and took me to the hospital where as expected, a number of long waits between visits to reception, triage, X-Ray, medical student, Cas doctor, trauma team and finally nurse kept me out of mischief for 5 hours.  The diagnosis was an open double fracture of the terminal phalanx with an intra-articular component.  My late presentation limited treatment options to dressings antibiotics and a tetanus jab.  A shoe slab support rounded it all off.

By the time I returned to the boat, we felt that it was too late to move on, so an early start tomorrow is on the cards.

Eynsham Lock

OK!  Bottom line.  We never got to Lechlade.  Bearing in mind the strong river flows yesterday and the higher river levels we were not surprised to find "Yellow Board" notices for "Strong Stream Increasing" from the next lock to the head lock, St John's.  There had been heavy rain yesterday evening, and it was raining this morning.  Paradoxically, the level where we were moored was 9 inches down and we had a list.  The tug we saw yesterday had moored up and was well aground.  Yellow boards mean "Find a safe mooring" and wait, so going on was not an option.  We were quite safe and could wait.  My feeling was that it would be a short lived problem, however there was a risk that the warnings would extend downstream with the water surge and we would be trapped with no access to any services.   So we decided to turn tail and return home.  The advantage is that we could pick up our two missing batteries today.

Getting the boat ready in the wet Michael slipped on the wet steps and fell into the boat nearly ripping his great toenail off.   Having to stand on the foot for the rest of the day was not the best treatment and the toe continued slowly bleeding for the next 5 hours, leaving a trail of blood spots everywhere.  There have been worse accidents!   Nurse Fisher is on hand always to ensure correct management.   The fast river flows did need some skill at the helm and we easily kept up the 5mph top speed on the river.    Arriving at Oxford Cruisers the batteries were soon on board and we continued on through Eynsham Lock to take up the 24 hour mooring there for ease of access fitting the batteries which was soon accomplished.  A good mooring is something to be cherished.   Rather move on and be disappointed in Oxford, we will stay here and head for Abingdon tomorrow.

Rushey Lock

We decided to head on up to Lechlade and having no news from the boatyard, deal with the batteries on our return.   The locks are wuite well spaced out on this section, so it was just 9:00am when we got to the first.  No lock-keeper was evident and the blue "self service" boards were out.   There was a cruiser tagging along behind, single handed, hoping no doubt for a free ride.   Pat got off to deal with the off side and having opened the lock-keeper's side I handled the boat as a single hander using the centre rope to stop it on a bollard and then securing the stern rope and controlling the boat on the bow rope.  This way I can keep both ropes taught. The long caravan park before Bablock Hythe, beautifully kept by the way, appeared deserted with not a soul about just like the set of a sci-fi movie after the aliens have been, even down to an open door blowing in the wind.  It is at Bablock Hythe that the tow path changes sides according to my old Nicholson's and at that point it says "ferry".  The ferry was up on the bank.  At the next lock we caught up with a narrowboat that had shared our moorings the day before and then left after the heavy rain.  So we shared the lock and kept company thereafter.   Approaching Rushey Lock from Tadpole Bridge, the flow was getting very fierce, needing 1800 rpm to make any headway.  An opposite direction boat met us on a corner and the flow took him straight into the outside bank and into a large bush.  The inertia of the boat going downstream in a fast flow has this effect - wanting to carry on in the straight line.   The turn must be anticipated.   The water levels were indeed up, with the layby landing just covered and almost top of the lock sides when we had risen up.   I remembered a nice mooring from my last visit, just round the corner from the lock.  It is even better than I remembered.  The wind has been very strong this morning, unpleasantly so, but here we are sheltered.  Excellent.

Farmoor Reservoir

Had quite a lot of interest yesterday watching boats trying to moor coming downstream at speed with the strong flow by the moorings.  Trying to get the bow in first is immediate failure because the back swings out in the flow and the only way to go bow first would be faster than the flow.  Then a large cruiser type hire boat didn't understand the sign and got stuck under Osney Bridge.   It seemed no worse for wear though when we saw it again today.   The cruise up through the three locks I did on Monday seemed faster and we stopped at Eynsham for water.   Passing by the boat yard  we spoke briefly to Andy there about the batteries.  He had phoned earlier to say that there had been a problem with his delivery and the wrong types had appeared.   No news when they might be available, so we continued up through Pinkhill Lock and stopped just round the corner near Farmoor Reservoir.  Heavy rain had been promised and there were signs in the air already.   It did indeed rain stair-rods later on in the early afternoon, so a good decision we felt.   We are also near the boat yard should there be any news.

Oxford

The journey back to Oxford to pick up Pat seemed to pass quickly. The question in my mind was that tomorrow We would be going back up river again and I would need to turn the boat either above the lock, or below. The stream at Osney Bridge flows fast and the only place to turn is where the stream divides, left for a weir and right for the lock and another weir. I decided to turn above the lock by steering the bow into the left hand wall and allowing the current to swing me round. The risk was that once the turn was more than half way the stream would take the whole boat down broadside onto the central divider unless I could pull it into the lock channel fast enough. Well it worked but I nearly chickened out. I put this in the not to be repeated category. Went to the bank and food shopping in Oxford. Ghastly experience. So crowded. All those people aimlessly wandering about. The two batteries are coping OK but very restricted use until our full bank is restored.

Swinford

Pat set off for home this morning, back tomorrow.   Meanwhile, the boat batteries were worse than ever this morning and the real worry is the fridge/freezer should the inverter decide that it can't supply power anymore with voltage too low.   Where to get new batteries from?    Apart from "overnight delivery" the only place locally stocking leisure batteries I could find was Oxford Cruisers at Eynsham, 5 miles away.  This seemed the best bet, so that's where I took the boat today.  Three hours, three locks.   It was not straightforward of course.  The boatyard only had two of the type I wanted, but as I have to return tomorrow to pick up Pat, we will be back on Wednesday which gives the yard chance enough to source two more.  Two will guarantee the fridge if we are careful.   Having picked up the batteries, I turned the boat and headed for the nearest favourite looking bank to moor and change over.  That done sooner rather than later gave the option for charging before tonight.   Then moved on to Eynsham Lock, but seeing the 24 hour moorings already taken (only room for 3 boats) I retraced steps to Swinford Farm moorings £5.

Oxford

Yesterday was mostly spent fiddling about with the batteries and sitting out reading a book Pat had picked up for me.  Detail about the batteries in now given in reply to a comment made by Bruce yesterday.  We ran the engine until 6pm and got 99% (if you believe that) on the indicator.   By 5.30am today it was 11.8v on load.   No TV, but at least the fridge is OK.   Overnight, the river level had also dropped an inch or so as judged by the list we found ourselved with in the morning.

So we started the engine early today and left later at 9.00, stopping for water above Abingdon Lock.  It seemed an especially long ride up to Stanford Lock, but the flow on the river was in parts quite brisk, so not surprising really.

To our relief there were several opportunities for mooring above Osney Lock (Oxford) and we can leave the boat here for a few days on payment of a small charge much to our relief.   Pat has to go home for a couple of days.

Abingdon

The domestic batteries were absolutely flat this morning.  That is, 0% on the Smartgauge, 11.8V.   According to the amp/hour meter we have only used 75 AH.  Yesterday we only has 83% showing at the end of the day, so with didn't start the evening with a full bank, but it is a bit worrying.   Had a look at the batteries this morning.  The green "OK" indicator was not green, but a sample of cells that I have checked were not low on electrolyte.    So today we have run the engine more than necessary and got them up to 98%.  All this has started since we were on mains power in the marina.   The Trace inverter charger appeared to be maintaining a float state as expected and when we left all showed normal.   However, on Thursday morning we only had 57% left which is unusual.   We have experienced this before on mains power at Cutweb and I replaced the batteries, although when I discharge tested them afterwards they were OK. 

So we left at 8:00 and proceeded leisurely.   Clifton Lock was the busiest I have seen since Brentford.  Seven boats appeared out of nowhere and the locky was away at his weir.  However, we managed OK.

Abingdon

 Found a mooring at Abingdon on the wall before reaching the bridge, however, as this was too high for Alfie to get on and off independently, Pat searched out another spot on the grass field opposite the recreation area.   Much better!

Wallingford

Walked in to Pangbourne this morning.  The main street is surprisingly close.  Found a Coop supermarket almost immediately for a few essentials.   Then, at 8:55 we set off for Whitchurch Lock and onwards up the river.  At first only rowers were out - all girls.   Then Goring Lock where the left bow thruster stopped working for good this time and we were stuck behind the wing wall.  A strong push off at the back, and reverse enabled me to swing the boat round.   At Cleeve Lock the lock kepper turned the lock round ahead of us for a trip boat.  It is a long drag up from Cleeve Lock to Wallingford making slow progress against the current - all in all two hours for a mere 5 miles.  At North Stke there is an island and the channel makes a small zig zag so that the river ahead is obscured.  Approaching the bend a large cruiser appeared and turned as one would expect to pass port to port.  Before that had passed another appeared, likewise and then another except that this one didn't turn straight away as the others had done.  We were well to right of centre so expected it to turn soon, but it didn't and kept going straight on seemingly heading for the right bank looking as it it was going to cross our path.  I put the gear in reverse fearing a collision and turned to the right and the cruiser then did a sudden right turn just before coming right ahead.   Its bow missed us but the stern was, of course coming round and we struck the side of the boat a glancing blow and ended up in the trees ahead surrounded by so much blue smoke from this cruiser that I thought for a moment that the boat was on fire.  Amazingly there appeared to be no damage to either party - it turned out to be a steel cruiser.   They admitted their fault and were a bit shaken.   They offered no explanation for their action.   Had it been a plastic boat it would have been severely damaged I reckon.  

Wallingford moorings

Arriving at Wallingford we found new moorings on the right (new to us anyway) £5 a night.  Nuggler cab be seen in the photo on the right next to the two white boats.   Behind the trees is a play fountain and an open air swimming pool, both packed with children on what has turned out a warm sunny day.

On the move again

After my visit to Wales and Pat's visit home we are on the move again.   Alfie must be getting a bit disturbed by all the to-ing and fro-ing.  The trains have been very crowded and the tube especially so, so when some idiot stood on his tail he got very aggressive and went for the guy's leg.  Can't say I blame him.  The guy in question didn't seem to notice.  Then when passengers went to pet him, he did the nasty growling and baring teeth thing, and this afternoon, got very aggressive with other dogs which threatened his territory on the river bank.

 

Moored at Pangbourne Meadow

I left the marina (where the boat has been moored during our absence) and proceeded to Caversham Lock to meet Pat at Reading Bridge.  Rather embassassingly, the centre rope got snagged on the bollard as the boat rose causing a severe list, before the lock keeper could reverse things and let a bit of water out to release the rope.  Unfortunately the glass cafetiere got broken in the process and a whole load of cutlery scattered over the floor.  With Pat and Alfie back on board we continued to Pangbourne Meadow where I have never been able to moor before.  A nice site, lovely for the dog, and with easy access to the town.  Becoming sunny in the afternoon, so chairs out!

 

 

Reading

We upped the plank (gangway!) and left the mooring at 7:50.  Just a few rowers about and the water was very smooth.   On approach to Marsh Lock we enjoyed a heavy downpour, but the rain soon stopped.  The lock was empty with the paddles up and on self service because of the early hour.  So no need to moor up, just drop Pat off to open the gates using the push buttons.    I am essentially single handing at this point, Pat working the lock, so the central rope to a bollard at the rear, and the stern rope likewise.  Once the boat is stopped, the centre rope can be looped over a bollard near to the centre of the boat.  Marsh Lock is not deep, and being at the rear of the lock the turbulence from the sluices is not a problem, especially as the automated controls are set very gentle.   Each lock has its own set of particular instructions.  In this case, just close the gates on exit and leave the paddles up.   By the time we reached Shiplake Lock, the lock-keeper was on duty.   At Sonning we squeezed in behind a large dutch barge.   Although the River still has quite a flow, it must still be decreasing because we seemed to make good headway on less power than yesterday.   I had checked the fuel level and we had used only 40 litres since Uxbridge, so the greater throttle setting we have been using was not a problem.   Arriving at Reading, we ascended Caversham Lock and moored temporarily just above Reading Bridge for Pat and Alfie to reach the station.   They are going home for a few days, while your scribe goes to Snowdonia to do a small job.  

Henley

A very polite functionary came to collect our mooring fee at 9:20 shortly before Chloe Kai and little Ben arrived. We set off about 10:00, late for us. An uneventful trip really. Very little traffic on the river, though more trip boats than I have seen before, but then it is high season. Moored up on the left bank (another 8 quid.)

Maidenhead

Runnymede is a good spot to moor (for us) with a grass verge and large park nearby for Alfie to run around on.  Leaving this morning, we turned around and returned to Staines to pick up our dutch guests.  Only I left the mooring pin behind, and when we got back an hour or so later it was gone.   A pleasant day with intermittent sunshine but a strong wind.   In 3 hours we were at Windsor and found a neat mooring for lunch.   Here was a photo opportunity.  

David (right) and Dutch friends Tineke and Sjoerd

After leaving us we carried on and got to Boveney Lock, the start of the Olympic security zone.  There were four police at the lock, then rounding the corner, 2 ribs with scary occupants, 3 EA launches with multiple occupants and a fire and rescue boat packed with rescuers.  A string of yellow buoys marked the buckinghamshire bank all the way to the new summerleaze bridge, and at Bray Lock a lone policeman.   Eton Dorney is, therefore a huge site with a brand new security fence all along.  There was an interesting very tall pylon with a wire strung out that looked like a run for a remote travelling camera.  All very interesting.   Shortly after Bray Lock the River makes a bend and we enter the straight wich leads up to Brunel's amazing brick arched railway bridge.  Just before is a mooring, backed by a grass bank, popular with locals on a sunny day.  £8 per night.  I don't usually stop here but it is a good spot to pick up Chloe Kai and Ben tomorrow.  

Maidenhead with Brunel's railway bridge in background

 

Staines

We are here for the shopping (Sainsbury nearby) and to pick up some guests tomorrow.   Staines is dfifficult. 

Pubside moorings at Staines

 The only half decent moorings are right by the road bridge outside two eating/drinking establishments that I know will be heaving by this evening.  The wall is almost as high as the roof and getting passengers on is not easy as it involves some gymnastics (bit like Limehouse, but no ladders).  So Pat has gone shopping and we will in all likelyhood move up river to spend the night at Runnymead which is dog friendly.

 

Tides, Ohlimpix and Shepperton

We have to wait for the tide to help us up the Thames to Teddington. 

The alternative moorings at Brentford

 So it was that we left the mooring at 12:30 passed through the Gauging Locks with the assistance of a volunteer lock-keeper, dawdled round the last wiggles of the River Brent to arrive at Thames Lock at the appointed hour.  Soon we were on our way making 6.8mph with the tide behind us.  Our arrival at Teddington an hour later was pretty uneventful, just a short wait.  Then on to the non-tidal river.  We were amused just before Kingston to be joined by a flotilla of small sailing dinghies formed in chains and being towed up river against the wind, each with a couple of children aboard.   No doubt they were going to be set loose to drift down stream and downwind later.  Our interest was further drawn at Kingston to the noise and crowds of people who were supporting team GB in the cycle road race time trials.  The route followed the river up as far as Hampton Court. At Molesley Lock we stopped for a pumpout. The noise of the helicopters hovering overhead was irritating to say the least, drowning out the noise of the pump out machine sucking the nasties out of our holding tank denying me the subtle sounds which indicate completion of the task.   Continuing on our first mooring opportunity at Walton on Thames was taken by the boat in front, so we continued on to Shepperton where the public moorings are now much improved.  Pat's lamb hotpot was excellent.

Future Ohlimpyans in training?