UK Canals - Journey reports

The Rochdale Canal

Early in May this year 5 narrowboats met in Picadilly Basin, Manchester with the intention of cruising the Rochdale Canal.  The canal is notoriously short of water as several of the summit reservoirs were disposed of when the canal closed.  Now it has been restored to full use. British Waterways therefore had a restriction on the number of boats that can cross the summit and had just increased the limit to six boats.  However, additionally with this year's dry spring and the water shortage a restriction had been announced at Tuel Lane with stringent booking requirements and finally the imposition of an almost complete shutdown.   Faced with this potential obstruction at the opposite end of the canal, two boats decided to cancel, but the remaining three saw it more as an adventure and had no deadlines to meet, so, on the appointed day, waited at the bottom by lock 83 for the BW staff to unlock the canal and let us in.  From the time we started up, until Littleborough, we only saw three other moving boats on our first day and none the second with no moored boats anywhere.  For the first day, through Newton Heath, the canal was dirty and full of rubbish needing several visits to the weed hatch fleeces seeming to be the most common problem, but blue rope,large plastic sheets and other rubbish all on the prop with lots of floating wood, cans and bottles in the water.  More like an open sewer.  In many areas the canal is quite open, perhaps making the deprivation more evident than were it enclosed in greenery.  For us, water availability was never a problem, but in places shallow.  Between locks 68 & 69 there was only a small channel carved through the mud marked by metal pins protruding from the water.  The three boats we passed were on their way down from the top reporting point where the BW staff were waiting to secure the lock up after us. Best moorings at the Rose of Lancaster were after the aqueduct round the corner, elsewhere too shallow.  Day 2 saw us find one low pound for no obvious reason and yet with bywashes running. More rubbish in the water again at Rochdale with an underwater obstruction at the entrance to the top lock and total immobilisation of the propulsion with rubbish.  The small amount of mooring space at Littleborough was congested, as it is at a convoy crossing point.  Climbing to the summit (after a hilarious evening at the Summit Pub by the way) we were welcomed by two of the lengthsmen, Darren & Lee, who accompanied us through to the summit itself and then again at Tuel Lane.  There was plenty of water up here with the feeders running constantly.  After a call to the BW office at Red Bull we learned that one locking per day at Tuel Lane was to be allowed with the same strict booking requirement, so we stood a chance of getting through eventually even if it meant over two days.  Once over the top there was water everywhere, even a bit of flooding in places.  At Walsden, the bywash could be heard running all night.  In fact there was so much coming down at Todmorden, weiring over the top gates, that the pressure sensor in the bottom guillotine gate would not allow it to be lifted until the flood subsided, caused largely by the second locking of the third boat from above.  The last lock before Tuel Lane has suffered from subsidence to such an extent that two narrowboats will jam in the chamber and each has to go through singly.  So for each pair of boats, two lockfulls of water enter the Tuel Lane pound.  So there should in theory never be a problem at Tuel Lane, which was a recontruction replacing two locks.  The problem is evidently leakage testified by piles of puddling clay on the bank and bankside.  Theoretically, then, the more boats that use this section the less significance the leakage will have.  It was also startlingly obvious that there was no rubbish in the water on the Yorkshire side and the water quality was good.  At Tuel Lane we met Darren & Lee again, who on the appointed next morning, with no sign of low water levels, arranged to lock us all through, fortunately as it turned out, because the boat waiting to come up later lifted the top gate of lock 1 off its post and the lock was subsequently closed for 10 days for repairs.

Two questions remain, therefore. Firstly why is the Lancashire side of the canal so filthy and full of obstructions.  Secondly, does the convoy system itself mitigate against saving water, or is it the few locks on each side of the summit that are not wide enough to take two boats, doubling the flow at these points and therefore taking more water from the summit.  As the convoys come up to the summit, they leave full locks behind.  Then the next morning, the pounds having been topped up, they empty one lock into the next, into the next into the next etc. producing a torrent lower down.  Is this why so much water appears always to be flowing over the gates of the "Rochdale 9" in Manchester?  Would a more random and balancing flow of boats be more economical?

Finally, this is when all is said and done a beautiful canal for the most part, more so perhaps on the eastern side. Don't be put off by all the stories.  We had no problems other than below the water surface. Everyone we came across was friendly and helpful.  Here is a canal, recently restored, which seemingly has a "no go" section on the western side which obviously puts people off and can, therefore, bring little economic benefit to the area which so badly needs it. It's a bit of a catch 22. Dredging and a major cleanup with provision of safe moorings is the only way to break the vicious circle.  Later in our cruise we were surprised by the cleanliness of the water through Rotherham into Sheffield. So it is not just an urban canal problem. Remarking this to the Tinsley Lockkeeper, he said it was down to management.  Was that water management or "the management"?

Harefield and home

Thus ends our marathon journey.  We always feel very sad leaving the boat behind at the end of a trip like this.  Also amazed by the amount of "stuff" we have to take home with us - and there's more to come.  There is an amount of general servicing to be done, more painting before the winter, and more trips to look forward to.   Next, a run down to Limehouse and back up the River Thames.   Got to keep our hand in!

Cassiobury Park

We left Winkwell just after 7 am because Pat hates traffic busy swing bridges, but we were unaware that a boat had left 20 minutes ahead of us until we spotted them at Nash Mills and we caught up with them at Kings Langley.  It's not that we are faster, just the vagaries of opposite direction traffic.  This was nb Vixen.  They had left early to beat the forecast rain, but there was no sign of it until later in the day when we were safely moored up below Ironbridge Lock.

Winkwell

Today, Canalplanner put us at Berkhamsted.  Well, we were there in about 3 hours on a 6 hour proposed journey time, so we carried on to Winkwell with the incentive of a Sunday lunch at the Three Horseshoes.  We reached there just after 12md.  And we found a mooring although badly spaced boats almost made this impossible with loads of wasted space.  We got our Sunday Lunch though not cheap.  If your meal is served on square plates one can expect to pay much more.  £26 for two roast beef, a pint of Directors and a pint of diet cola.  The promised hot weather has arrived and I think one could have fried an egg on the table in the sun.  The boat is nicely in the shade, so we are keeping cool.

Bulbourne

The rain came late evening and this morning we woke to a miserable grey, windy, rainswept scene with drizzle still in the air.  We carry on as usual.  It has been the custom that Pat takes Alfie for a morning walk in our direction of travel and they get picked up along the way.  No difference this morning, Church Lock seems a good target and off they went.  For some reason, Alfie, who has been fascinated by the field of sheep and cows next to the towpath decided to desert Pat and run back for a last trial of barking to see if he could make them run away. So far he has failed.  Church Lock and Slapton Lock were both empty with gates open. No problem there, nor Horton, but at the next we came up dead. The pound above lock 32 was empty.  We have been caught here before with the same problem.  It looks as if the top gates were left open and the bottom ones have a bad leak.   So, make sure that the top gates are firmly closed, then off up to the next to open top and bottom paddles and let some water down.  It took about 30 minutes to get enough in to make an attempt, but just before the upper lock the boat ran aground.  More water needed sending down.  Finally we got through but the delay meant that we would meet traffic around the Marsworth flight, which we did.  After a delay at the bottom two while an opposite direction boater was reversing away from the junction because a music festival meant he would have a noisy night, we finally met up with nb Queenborough for the main climb.  Still cloudy, but warmer and more humid we settled down for the day just beyond the top lock.  Digital TV from Oxford.

Grove Tavern

A short day.  After a shopping stop at Tesco Leighton Buzzard we arrived at The Grove.  A good spot for some restorative painting.  Rain promised tonight.

Fenny Stratford

We set off down the remaining 5 locks and soon caught up with a single hander, then had to wait above the bottom lock for a pair of "Wyverns" to get going off the water point. Later, shopping in Tesco at Wolverton, and then the long cruise through Milton Keynes. Fenny was our destination, but by the lock there was no chance of TV reception, so we moved up a little way to get a clear line to the transmitter and bingo! Good digital reception.

Stoke Bruerne

We haven't  eaten out for a while, so we though we would have a short day and moor up in the long pound at Stoke Bruerne to be able to visit one of the restaurants this evening.  Nothing more to say except that the tunnel was busy.  I do like the restored/rebuilt section in the middle.  It's like a cathedral in comparison to the original being slightly wider and not so dirty, so the tunnel light travels further.  Then there is the deluge that drops from one of the ventilation shafts.   So far I've always been able to miss it.  Being deeper (newer) I suppose, the boat just seems to fly along.

Stowe Hill Wharf

We left at 7:30, aiming for opening time at Watford Locks.  The Crick Tunnel is a bit of a wet one, I discovered without my hat!   We were first at the locks and imediately set off down with one to come up arriving below minutes after ourselves.  They had been requested to ascend the first two locks, then wait for us to emerge from the staircase.  It was quite windy and instead of waiting for us in the shelter of the lock, they emerged into the pound and made for our exit gates before we had descended the last chamber. The wind then took them and in the end the lock keeper had to go down and take a rope to get them under control.  Always best to stay in the lock and wait there!  Arriving at Buckby top lock Pat learned that a woman had fallen in the (full) lock that morning.  We were following a pair going down, so we found out after the third lock having caught them up, but then had to wait for opposite direction traffic.  At the bottom, Pat wanted to visit the Whilton Chandlery for a paper and milk which gave me the option of stopping for diesel.  Not at 99p per litre base price!   We also stopped after that at Weedon to go down the stairs to the small supermarket.  I hadn't realised that the moorings there on the offside are 14 day visitor moorings, not much use though as the boats moored were spread out and the best gap was 59ft 9 inches having tried valiantly to squeeze in.  So we moved on into the bushes.   Finally, Rugby Boats at Stowe Hill had diesel at 86p. No contest.    Preliminary tests showed that we would have no TV reception, so after supper we moved on using the GPS to point to the Sandy Hill transmitter until we had a good view down the cut.  Perfect digital TV.   So actually, we ended up at Nether Heyford.

Crick

Arrival at Crick.

Crick Wharf

A sunny morning gradually turning to fair weather cumulus.  Shortly after leaving Kilworth we came to the junction with the Welford Arm and some very tidy, quet looking moorings on the straight just after.  Thereafter it became intermittently very shallow making any power more than just over tickover useless.  There are lovely views glimped from time to time looking down frm the hills, but marred as previously by uncontrolled tall hedgerows.  We stopped at Yelvertoft to visit the Post Office/General stores, then on past the new Yelvertoft Marina to Crick.  Much of the mooring there is long term permit holders only and the shorter visitor moorings have been reduced by the entrance to the Crick Marina extension.  We found a place opposite the Wharf Marina and the "Moorings" Bar/Restaurant - closed Mondays :-( .

Kilworth Wharf

Our 6 hours a day scheme should have taken us to Husbands Bosworth tunnel north, but there were no moorings there, so here we are, the next possible spot. We left at 7:50 this morning and eventually found ourselves behind another boat whose crew helpfully opened both swing bridges for us. Arriving at the bottom of Foxton we made a beeline for the lock-keeper to book in and found we were 5 in line, about an hour wait. The flight was very busy with gongoozlers in the sunshine and we picked up a temporary crew to work the gates. Alfie got the hump because dogs have to be on a lead at all times. The flight is full of potential hazards, the locks themselves and the various side ponds with fast flowing water. None of it is fenced thank goodness but a dog did drown last week, fell into a pond and got sucked through a culvert. Take care!

Market Harborough

A straightforward run up the remainder of the broad locks ths morning, although our first lock had both bottom gates open (all night?) and the pound above was about 2 feet low. No problem though. Later in the morning we had the first of the heavy showers which had been forecast. Very heavy! After Saddington Tunnel our attention was drawn, by a heavily loaded hire boat, to a sheep stranded in the mud on the offside bank. Nuggler Crew Rescue in action yet again. The bit of bank was part of a large winding hole, so inspite of the troublesome wind I turned the boat 150 degres and drove the bows head on to the bank whereupon Pat jumped off and pulled the said half immersed sheep out of the mud, getting herself ankle deep in mud in the process. Meanwhile other boaters were involved unbeknown to us and had crossed the canal by a nearby bridge, and armed with boathooks and ropes arrived just after Pat had done the deed. The sheep seemed to have injured back legs, or was very hypothermic because it just collaped.  Much more dificult to get back on the boat though, especially as Alfie had jumped off as well and was proving elusive. Pat walked back the long way in the end, through hawthorne and over a barbed wire fence, and trashed her trainers as they were now beyond repair. The farmer had been called, and appeared just after we set off again. Passing the bottom of Foxton Locks, the views from the Market Harborough arm would have been magnificent but for the high hedge, but the end basin is very neat with modern facilities and some permanent moorings including a Canaltime base. There is a long stretch of visitor moorings. No TV reception sadly.

Kilby Bridge

Threatened with dreadful weather today we left early. Gates of first three locks were open and paddles left up. It turned out this was not so good. The pound above Limekiln lock was about two feet down. I bumped slowly along the bottom up to the next lock, but ran aground finally within a few yards of the Gates on a pile of rubble. BW were already in attendance and suggested that I tie onto the railings while they ran water down. After an hour there was enough depth to continue. Still no rain! So we carried on, past the centre of Leicester with its lines of empty mooring rings and the "safe" pontoon with only one out of four spaces vacant. Finally arrived at Kilby Bridge by about 4 pm. Only then did the rain start.

Bishops Meadow

Not a lot to say today.  We are trying to keep the cruise more relaxed, perhaps not more than 6 hours in a day.  It is generally recognised that one does not stop in Leicester for the night as the locals have the reputation of not being friendly.  Perhaps that is a historical thing but it is true that there is only a small secure BW mooring for two boats in the centre, so that must mean something.  So our last mooring before is usually Birstall and then one does the section to Kilby Bridge in one day.   It is a shame that Leicester loses out.   So we are trying to portion the stops out boefore Birstall.   Loughborough would have been a suitable place if it were in any way dog friendly, but again, memories of the pontoon mooring were not good so we are here at Bishops Meadow.  Plenty of nice grassy towpath mooring above the lock.

Cranfleet Cut

We set back for water before leaving the moorings at Gunthorpe.   Arriving at Stoke Lock there was no lock keeper on duty so Pat acted - once she found out how to open the control panel.  Well they are all different from area to area depending I suppose on how long ago they were mechanised.  At Holme lock two boats caught up with us.  What a slow fill.  It's actually much deeper than the others.   The moorings above the lock are plentiful and very tidy.  Then we got onto the Nottingham Canal.  What a contrast, a small lock relatively speaking and a case of wind your own.  Passing Castle Lock we headed for Sainsburys and a large shop.   Funny how the entrances to these supermarkets are all on the other side of the building, irritating when the boundary of the building is only yards from the canal.  There should be a special door for boaters.  Not wanting particularly to moor in Nottingham, the idea was to carry on to Cranfleet where I remember good dog friendly moorings.  It's just that I had not remembered how far it was.  Anyway we got there in the end, joining another boat for the final lock.

Gunthorpe

The rain gave one last burst at about 6:30 last evening and then stopped.  Today's forecast is better, sunny intervals later and warmer.  I went out at about 8.am to get a paper, but the town was dead. Not even the large Waitrose or Smiths open.  The market was being set up with many stalls still empty.  Perhaps this defines "a sleepy town".    I did find a small newsagent eventually, however.   The signal on the town lock turned from yellow to red at about 9.am, so we called up on the VHF to let the lock keeper that we were in business, but no reply, so we left the mooring and the gates opened to let out a small cruiser, then green for us to go in.   The lock keeper explained that as he is not technically on duty until 9:30, he doesn't answer the radio.   However, if a boat is waiting, he will let it through.  He passed on news of our intended journey to the next lock-keeper, Hazelford.  He was ready for us.  Lkewise the next, Gunthorpe.  However, we had been advised that there was a problem with an obstruction behind the gate and a BW tug was in attendance sorting the problem.  There might be a delay.  Approaching Gunthorpe the problem was confirmed on the radio and we were asked to wait with three other narrow boats on the wall or pontoon.   The delay was very short for us and we were soon in the lock and up.  The Gunthorpe Visitor Moorings were empty bar one boat.  There is a longish pontoon and security gate leading to a grassy area.  Just as it said on the tin, ideal for small doggies.

Newark

After days of frusration with poor mobile signals we are not much better in Newark however, the rain makes me a little more forgiving with a poor 3G signal down in the chasm below the mooring wall.  Getting the dog off the boat requires lifting off the roof.  Thank goodness its a small dog.  So from where I left off at Sprotbrough with a mobile phone report.

Wednesday  8 June

A quiet day waiting for our friends to pass.  Did however spot the Humber Princess in the lock which was impressive.  Apparently this a twice a week trip to Rotherham.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thursday 9th June

Sprotbrough to Thorne

Our aim was to stop at Sprotbrough Lock and get water, which we did, but the roof of the boat is below the lockside making access difficult and the water pressure was too low to get a quick fill.  After 15 minutes we gave up.   10 minutes after leaving the lock I spotted an odd looking dummy lying legs up the bank and head half in the water. The face was white and waxy looking with pink lips.  Just to be sure, I stopped and backed up.  It was half hidden by a large bush.  Getting closer it looked very realistic and then we saw that it was breathing, agonal jerking breaths - a woman dressed in jeans and nylon jacket.  We tried to get the boat as near as possible whilst calling 999, but it was difficult due to brushwood debris and the bush.  Emergency services wanted to know where we were of course, the most difficult question of all.  Fortunately we were near some sort of a rowing club and I turned the GPS on to give coordinates.  Then, in the interval what could we do.  We managed to get the bows within a foot of the head which appeared to be resting on the mesh of a metal fencing frame and the brushwood in the water.  Water was lapping her forehead and she was of course unconcious, no doubt very hypothermic. To have attempted to get in the water would have run the risk of sinking the raft and drowning her, and getting off to the bank well nigh impossible.  Furthermore, her lower legs were bent down and appeared trapped between the very steep bank and the bar of the fencing frame.  It would have been impossible to drag her onto the boat.  About 10 minutes after our call, the police ambulance and two fire appliances arrived.  Using one of our spare mooring ropes, and with great difficulty, she was hauled up the 10 feet onto the bank and into the waiting ambulance.  It made me realise that it would have been extremely difficult to deal with alone just the two of us, and how fortunate we were near some sort of road access.  Also, had I not spotted her she would not have lasted much longer.   The large tanker, Humber Princess must have passed earlier that morning and the wash would have gone right over her head if she had been there then.

After this incident, the day seemed to pass quickly.  Stopping at Thorne, Stanilands Marina, for diesel, we were asked if we would like a mooring with electricity for the night.  We accepted.  It was free of charge except for £1 for the juice.  Then we discovered the marina laundry.  Pat was happy.  Thorne is not a bad little town.  A high street about 10 minutes walk away with small supermarkets, a Co-op and Somerfield, but lots of small shops which are much more interesting.  Contact with the police later in the day elicited litle as one would expect, save that the woman was still alive, but sedated.  (police speak for on a ventilator in ITU perhaps).

Friday 10 June

Thorne to Keadby

We wound up our 240v line and set off.  The first swing bridge, the pedestrian one in Thorne was tempremental but Pat eventually got it to work.  Apparently, when you insert the key and lift the lid of the control pedestal there is supposed to be a click of relays energising the gate locks to release.  It took several goes once a passer by had explained.   Then at Moors Bridge Pat found a BW key already in the control box which she couldn't get out and the fault light showing.  Nothing to do except call BW.  That took 90 minutes.   All the others worked OK, but we did have to wait ages for the Vazon sliding railway bridge to be worked for us.  It's a very busy railway line. I recall waiting for about 6 trains to pass.   No other boats waiting at Keadby, so plenty of mooring and the fish shop is still open and quite busy with the deep fried black pudding still on the menu.

Saturday 11 June

Keadby to Cromwell Lock

Our original plan was to go to Torksey, but when enquiring of the Keadby lock keeper when best to go on the Cromwell he said that it would be appropriate to go all the way today given the neap tide.  Originally we had been told 12:50 to go out, but this was revised once two other boats had turned up.  He would let us into the lock at 12:00 and let us go as soon as there was enough water.  We went out at 12:30.  There was not much of a tide running at this stage and we only made about 6 mph on Ribble style revs.  This built up to a massive 8.2 later on and I guess the tide turned about 45 minutes before we got to Cromwell .   7 hours in total.   The overnight moorings at Cromwell are a bit disappointing for a doggie boat.   The quayside was level with the roof.   Alfie managed it on his own after a few tries, but it has to be said that the grass and barbecue facilities are impressive. Who uses them in this weather?

Sunday 12 June

Cromwell to Newark

A beautiful sunny morning, but it didn't last.  The front heralding a day of rain was already visible in the distance  As we hadn't visited Newark before, it seemed sensible to make a short day and stop here for the night.  Its certainly a stop with lots of interest.  The castle, a pretty centre with a market square and lots of restaurants.  Pity about the weather.

Sprotbrough

Arrival at Sprotbrough after our first full day back on the boat following a brief sojourn in London. We met Derek again at the top of Tinsley and with all top gates opened for us and leaving all bottom gates open for an upcoming we were down in no time. Then a quick food shop in Rotherham before joining a sailing boat at Eastwood for the rest of the trip.