UK Canals - Journey reports

Widewater

We decided to return to base all but the last lock so that we can in the morning get a pump out, and have a less stressful boat tidy and return home.   Accordingly we left at the usual time.  Last night we dined at the Three Horsehoes.  Something not quite right about the service there, though its difficult to pin it down.  Maybe it was the half hour wait for our food, or the service (in a pub) on square plates, or the only condiments on offer being HP Sauce and Tomato Ketchup.  The food was certainly not in the quantity and quality we had been used to in Lancashire.

As usual we had the canal to ourselves until Kings Langley where there was a short queue for the lock and another boat peeled off the bank to join us.  This was Pukeko, run by some New Zealanders on their summer rotation (well our summer, their winter).  Kins Langley is a very slow fill, so by the time we reached Home Park Lock, two Wyverns had peeled off in front.  So we were chasing them until Casio, where they stopped for water.  Earlier at Cassiobury Locks, we rounded the bend by the roving bridge and found our way blocked by the two Wyverns waiting, two boats coming up, a huge bush blocking the towpath side and vegetation opposite.  The water behing the bush was too shallow to allow us to tuck away, so there was a good bit of banter going on trying to sort it all out.  Eventually we arrived at Widewater, moored up and allowed Pukeko to continue their rush to Little Venice to meet friends.  They had been delayed by the 'volcano' two weeks and were making up time.

The "Harefield Chinese Takeway" on Moorfield Road is highly recommended, by the way.

Bourne End

George left us this morning, taken away by his Mum & Dad.  We left immediately after at 6:30 and didn't see a single other boat moving until 10:00 at Marsworth.  Then we were paired up with a Wyvern as far as Berkhamsted, then another until Bourne End.  We then learned that the pairing of George with his step brother Alfie had been unsuccessful in the first instance and Chloe needs to return him ASAP.  Supper tonight at the Three Horseshoes.

The Silent Killer

Last night the carbon monoxide alarm woke us, showing a level of 75ppm.  As far as I could see the fire appeared to be burning normally and should have been making enough heat to keep the flue active and at the settings we always use overnight.  Opening a couple of window top vents made a very slow indent on the level, but finally it appeared to be dropping sufficiently to stop the alarm tripping.  I increased the air to the stove with the intention of increasing the heat and therefore the flue draft.  Two hours later the alarm went off again.  I decided that the best option was then to shut the fire down altogether by closing all vents.  In the morning, the fire was cold, but the level was still 50ppm and only fell significantly when all windows were opened.  My conclusion from these events is that carbon monoxide will pervade the whole space and serious ventilation is needed to remove it. There was an almost total lack of wind in the night and I was using the small chimney.  Our full size one is insulated and might better have been used instead to keep the flue draft supported.  The alarm is a potential lifesaver.

Post Script:  It appeared much later that the back plate on the stove was partly detatched and probably the cause of this problem.   Now a boat safety check I understand.

..and now the journey continues

Not many locks today, but a lot of cruising.  First to Cosgrove, then to Wolverton for a last minute shop, then the long haul through Milton Keynes including Fenny Stratford stop lock.  At Soulbury, a large team of IWA members was in attendance to operate the three locks, for a donation of course.  We learned that yesterday they had collected some £200, but today, in the rain, things were a bit disappointing.  Talking of rain, the day had started out dry though overcast ad the rain, when it came was very light but slowly became heavier and with the cold wind as well, not very pleasant.  So gradually we had to dress up until finally we had the full monty.  There was very little traffic today, mostly Wyvern boats starting out.  We reached Grove Lock at 16:30, 10 and a half hours after setting out.

A long day - Stoke Bruerne Bottom Lock

The Internet canal planner wanted us to be at Stoke Bruerne bottom lock today as part of the strategy to get us to the Grove Lock Pub on Saturday to meet our daughter where she aims to pick up George.  The problem is that this morning we were two hours away from the starting point of a 12 hour day.   So we set off and experienced our first incident. Entering the Hillmorton Bottom Lock, as Pat closed the gate, it caught the tiller handle and snapped it off.  So we had a tiller shorter by 6 inches which was surprisingly uncomfortable.  Reaching Braunston we had a quick ascent of the lock flight.  At the top, the remedial work for the landslip is almost completed and the length to the tunnel looks very tidy.  We had three opposite direction boats to pass in the tunnel, but nothing in front ahead or behind.  Buckby top lock was empty and while waiting to fill it a club boat turned up to join us.  A good partnership of ex. university friends on holiday for a week, however, marred after the fourth lock by an extremely disorganised pair two locks ahead, so finally we joined the single that was ahead of us.  All went well on the long pound to Gayton Junction until we came up behind a very slow boat that kept us on tickover.  It took until Blisworth before they took the hint and let us pass.  So we sped through the tunnel, only to find Stoke Bruerne top lock empty and while filling it, the slow boat caught up with us.  They only wanted to join us for two locks before mooring up, but then we caught up with the Norwegians.  They didn't seem to understand that it would have been helpful to wait for us to join them.  However, an opposite direction boat forced the issue and we were with them for the last two locks.  It was now 7:10pm.  They needed a pub for food and had been told that Cosgrove was an hour from the bottom lock.  More nearer two hours in my estimation, so we suggested the Navigation would be a better bet for them.  We moored up and took a big gulp of the Stoke Bruerne waters from a fast tap and I set about searching for a suitable ash sapling or branch to fashion a replacement handle for the tiller.  The result looks very smart, the wet wood almost resembling ivory.  Pat likes it better than the original.

Rugby

We arrived at the bottom of the Atherstone flight at about 8:00. Two boats were in the bottom adjacent locks ahead of us and another came up behind us once we were in the lock. The two ahead were companions and worked very fast. We followed and lost the one behind after a while. One opposite direction boat slowed us down at the turn by the maria, but otherwise a good climb. We found out later that a pound, one or two down, had been drained overnight and delayed boats coming down, probably why we had a relatively easy time. The rest of the cruise was uneventful really and we stopped at the appointed hour where we thought we might get a good TV signal. We did just before bridge 68. The new fender which I had fitted last night was OK, but the fixing loops on the bow are just in the wrong place. So this evening I did a lash up with some nylon cord like a cats cradle and this has improved the look enormously.

Alvecote

An early start and a long day today.  Our schedule took us down to Great Haywood Junction,where incidentally I purchased a new front fender. The old one was falling to bits. No queues, though some boats were on the move.  Colwich lock, where there is often a long queue was open for us.  We pressed on through Fradley Junction and Fazeley Junction and stopped just before Alvecote Marina.  The day had been grey and overcast with the threat of rain which at least held off until we moored up for the night.  It was necessary to light the fire in the end.

Moving on a bit

Today I was walking the line of the Welsh Highland Railway between Rhyd Ddu and Waunfawr.  Then back in the car to return to Stone.  As the pressure is on to get back to London, we left our mooring and set off down the canal through Aston Lock, past the huge new marina there and stopped for the night near to Sandon Lock.

A day off.

A day off!  I have to go to North Wales as part of my training for permanent way patrolman on the Welsh Highland Railway.  So this morning we did a bit of shopping, then at 11:30 I was picked up from the Star Inn by Enterprise Rent-a-Car and set off.

Stone

Setting off at our customary time, again under a clear blue sky, we reached the top of Stoke Locks just under the hour.  A boat was just about to exit our way, so no delay.  We also had a good run down to the bottom lock, but as has been our past experience, there is often a queue of early morning risers waiting to start up.  Below, we passed a regular sequence of opposite direction boats for about half an hour, then it went quiet and we had Trentham Lock (handcuff key needed) to ourselves.  Only when we reached the top of Meaford Locks did we hit traffic and then we found ourselves two boats behind a disorganised boat.  Coming up constantly behind the boat in front they must have got fed up with us and invited us to pass near the bottom of the Stone flight. We found a good mooring at Stone, noting the presence of a Black Prince Hire boat moored opposite the winding hole.  They were later asked to move by a 70 footer needing to wind.  Making our way to the Star Inn (for an excellent Sunday Roast) I also had to advise occupants of another Black Prince boat with all their chairs out bankside that they were actually on the water point and might find others a little less friendly.

Gongoozlers outside the Star Inn. I think the pub was close to running short of booze. 

The Cheshire Locks & Westport Park

The day dawned bright and blue and promised to be a hot one.  Just as well we were starting early.  It was shorts and no shirt from the start.  We had an excellent run up the hill with very little other traffic, in fact only one opposite direction conflicting move.  Pat walked on and set the bottom gates for me, then waited to shut them and open one top paddle while I kept the button on the rubbing plate.  Then the boat would reliably stay there so I could work the remainder of the lock while she was walking on again. We reached Red Bull at 12:10 and Pat went shopping.  This done we worked the last lock and headed for the tunnel.  The tunnel keeper saw us approaching and shot out of his office with his phone to his ear and then beckoned us on giving us the obligatory health & safety leaflet detailing emergency procedures as we entered.  He expressed some surprise that I was not wearing a shirt, but it had been a very hot morning and the cool air of the tunnel was welcome. We have had no real rain for weeks and the tunnel was almost dry.  At the other end we found a good mooring along with a lot of other boats at Westport Lake Park.  A very suitable spot for chairs and some cold beer.  Also lots of space for George to run around.  The hottest day so far.

Wheelock

An early start as is the norm but after yesterday's warm afternoon sunshine, we were in cool mist for quite some hours.  By Middlewich the sun had burned this all off and it was hot and humid.  We reached the Middleich Big Lock which Pat had to empty.  Once inside, the ground paddle on the towpath side did nothing to the water in the lock and the other created only slight surface turbuence.  Needless to say it took ages to fill.  Meanwhile Pat had gone on to prep the next lock for me.  When I got there, one boat was coming down but had left the gates open at the next lock for us.  So we went up in turn and into the next lock where there was a boat waiting above.  The skipper regailed Pat with the story that the boat following him had given him an absolute mouthful of abuse for leaving the top lock bottom gates open for us.   As they were still (or so I thought) open  when we got there, I manoeuvred to go in only to meet, to my surprise, this boat coming out. He must have turned the lock round in the meantime.  Pat didn't even know it was there.   Above the lock we found the usual mess of Middlewich Narrowboat hire fleet scattered all over the place, but seemingly being the only up-coming boat had a good run from then in.  We stopped at Wheelock so that we are best placed for an early morning run up the Cheshire Locks tomorrow.  Too hot for chairs on the lawn today I'm afraid.   We had to make do with cold pints of Hydes best bitter in the pub.

Watering at Wheelock

Anderton

We made very good progress on the deep waters of the Bridgwater Canal so much so that we passed Lymm at 11:00, and arrived at the portal of Preston Brook Tunnel at 14:10 where we had to wait until the 10 minutes allowed to enter after the half hour.  Minnehaha joined us at this point and followed us through until Dutton Stop Lock where we parted company.  At Saltersford Tunnel entrace we wound up behind an Alvechurch hire boat and for the next tunnel, but they appeared to have gone ahead by Anderton where we stopped for the night at 17:20.

Dover Bridge

What a change in the weather today.  Blue skies to start with, no wind to speak of, and as the day wore on it became shorts and topless (for me at least). We set off from our moorings early and started the climb up the 6 locks of the Rufford Arm.  Mostly straightforward and with some help from the lengthsman for two, as he was just passing on his morning inspection.  The locks have tail bridges but no access over the top gates and as each paddle has to be unlocked and relocked it seemed easier to operate the locks one sided with Pat walking on to prepare the next as is our usual practice.  However, the third lock from the top did not seem to want to fill that last inch, and indeed, looking at the bottom gates there seemed to be quite a leak below the waterline.  So quite a delay then while I had to walk round to work the opposite ground paddle, get the gate open and then walk back to lock everything up again.  Unbeknown to me, Pat was holding up a boat coming down, a trainee on a helmsman course, so they wern't unhappy and knew already of my problem from past experience.  Then one ground paddle on the top lock was U/S and this one took ages to fill.   Once on the Leeds and Liverpool main line, progress picked up but interruped by the swing bridges.  The first is fully automated, the second only partly needing lots of walking over and back to secure the gates and finally to retrieve the key.  The third was manual.   Regarding the locks there seemed to be all sorts of problems, mostly caused by paddles which didn't work so that the water was not going where we expected and the boat was moving around too much in the lock.  Being short locks the bows were always getting caught in the jet from the ground paddles when they worked or the risk of getting swamped from gate paddles.  With hindsight I might have roped the boat up properly as we do on the Grand Union.   One ground paddle at Wigan we found we couldn't unlock as the spindle inside the mechanism was so rounded off that our keys would not bite.  We pressed on after Wigan to Dover Bridge.  Plenty of mooring, good grass verges, chair out and a cool beer in the sunshine.

The Ribble Link back to Rufford

Today was a journey of many parts, with lots of waiting in between.  45 minutes to the holding basin at the top of the Millennium Link.  Nerly two hours to traverse the link as far as Lock 8 (more waiting) and then 25 minutes for the tidal section as far as the waiting pontoon before the sea lock.  Nealy an hour wait there, then 2 hours for the river section and straight on to Rufford another 1 1/2 hours.  There were three narrowboats and one cruiser in the convoy.  The cruiser shot off first and was never seen again.  Two of the narrowboats kept pace and were first in the lock at Tarleton, the other fell back and would have arrived just as the lock was cycled again.  A fifth boat on the list apparently, never showed.  Lovely weather with a chill NW wind, but the surface was scarcely ruffled.

Nowhere in particular

Pat left for London this morning.  We reversed across the cut to throw out rubbish and get water at the service facility which is on the right side of the canal for the bus stop for Preston.   I will now be making my way single handed to Preston to be reunited with Pat on Sunday.  Leaving Bilsborow in the sunshine allowed me to be in short sleeves for only about the second time this trip, but it didn't last and after half an hour I was in padded jacket again.  We have tied up by aqueduct 33.  Tomorrow will be a longer day - I might be able to make it last 3 hours.

Evening report

Just as I was settling down to lunch there was a knock on the door.  Two passing walkers had a message for me.  I had seemingly left my keys at the service facility in Bilsborrow, and a boater moored there had noticed and clocked "Nuggler".   The walkers did not know the name of the boat concerned.  There was nothing for it but to go back and retrieve the keys.   Thanking the walkers, I got the bike out and checked the tyres, took the pump with me and set off.  After a couple of hundred yards I realised I did not have a puncture kit and tools but decided to chance it.   Bad decision.  Almost in sight of Bilsborrow I took the hawthorn twig and that was that.  I decided to walk on and did retrieve the keys and a very neat notice with my boat name.  So a big thankyou to the unknown boater.  I would not have found out until tomorrow!   It took an hour and a half to walk back.  About as long as the boat ride in the first place!

George's Blog

Nana and Gandad messed about this morning but after lunch they took me to Morecambe on the bus.  It was only a short ride.  Then we walked about a lot.   The shops along the front looked very run down and the fun fair was derelict, but then we came back along the promenade which has recently been rebuilt and looks very posh.  
There is a new jetty that juts out into the bay with a cafe, and I had a bit of Grandad's ice cream.   I was upset because there are notices everywhere which say that dogs are not allowed on the beach which is a shame becasue nobody else was there, it being so cold and windy.  I got my picture taken with Eric Morecambe.

Bilsborrow

Still on only a GPRS signal here as at Garstang, so no pictures.  Quality seems always very local.  Weather this morning miserable and cold with drizzle on and off.   A leisurely departure from Garstang this morning as we didn't want to arrive too early at the coalyard by Bridge 54, only about half an hour away.  Mooring up I went to investigate.  It is a large main yard with a full range of coal available, but not really a retail outlet.  All the stuff is bulk and 50Kg minimum purchase.  I could buy 100Kg, but it was only obtainable in open topped second hand plastic bags and I had to get it along the road, down the steps by the bridge and up to the mooring.  I could borrow a sack barrow.  So two trips, but each time one of the bags tipped over and briquettes had to be retrieved.  Stupid of me not to tape the bags up before trying to move them, because it had to be done anyway to keep the bags on the roof.  Amazing really that we are still having to buy fuel to keep warm in the middle of May!

Moving on again we were soon at Bilsborrow.  The mooring we had before by the facilities block was occupied, so we had a typical Lancaster Canal mooring opposite, that is with the stern 2 feet off the bank.  A walk round to the village stores followed.

Garstang again

We left Galgate at 8:00 and reached Garstang by 10:50.   Really a short day, but the journey seemed to take ages.  So laid back we must have become.   One thing I must mention about the Lancaster Canal is that there is no shortage of BW pump out machines, and they don't run out half way through a pump out.   So we availed ourselves of the one at Garstang.   Lots of sunshine today, but the bitterly cold wind persists.  Nonetheless the chairs were out for lunch and afternoon drinks.  Shopping also featured of course.  We will be here for three nights, then a complicated set of manoeuvres to get Pat back to London for the day on Saturday and the boat positioned for the Ribble Link on Monday.

Galgate

There had been rain overnight and the morning woke to overcast and drizzly showers.  We still had the cold wind, forecast to get colder.  We set off first.  Just as the rear of the boat passed through bridge 111 on the outskirts of Lancaster there was a thrashing splosh and George was off the back.  He was still attached to his lead and the lock must have given way because the line was reeling out like a fisherman with a huge catch.  Then poor Georgie was bodysurfing, dragged along by the boat before I could bring it to a stop with the bow in the shallows.  He was soon back on board, thanks to his life jacket with the handle and was whisked inside to be dried off.  He was back on the back of the boat in no time, seemingly undaunted by the experience.    Reaching Lancaster we stopped briefly for milk & newspaper.  Putting the boat in reverse churned up the most horrible mixture of plastic bags and goodness knows what else making the boat almost uncontrollable for a while.  Then on through the very long cutting until Galgate was reached, our target for the night.   The state of the batteries is becoming an issue.  They seem incapable of holding more than about 1/10th of their rated charge capacity.  Checking then yesterday showed one to be u/s, so this was taken out of sevice, but the remainder do not seem to be doing much better.  I suppose the change of use from a full day's motoring to charging an hour mornng and evening is partly to blame, but they are only two years old and must have been duff to start with.

George's Blog

Nana and Gandad messed about this morning but after lunch they took me to Morecambe on the bus.  It was only a short ride.  Then we walked about a lot.   The shops along the front looked very run down and the fun fair was derelict, but then we came back along the promenade which has recently been rebuilt and looks very posh.  
There is a new jetty that juts out into the bay with a cafe, and I had a bit of Grandad's ice cream.   I was upset because there are notices everywhere which say that dogs are not allowed on the beach which is a shame becasue nobody else was there, it being so cold and windy.  I got my picture taken with Eric Morecambe.

Tewitfield and back to Hest Bank

 
Carnforth. The Canal Turn.  Excellent Food, friendly service. Just keep the waterbus moorings free! 

After another excellent meal in the 'Canal Turn' pub last night we woke this morning to more wind and chill.  The other two boats had their turn first at the water point and sani station, then after we had filled we followed them up to Tewitfield and the end of the canal.  Very shallow mostly, the progress was slow but made up for by the scenery with the rolling green hills and the distant lakeland mountains. The wind was quite a factor meaning we were still wrapped up in winter gear. The Capernwray arm looked like it was full of liveaboards and not very attractive surrounded by large trees. 

The Capernwray Arm 

 Soon we reached the end and our friends were waiting, inviting us to wind and then reverse into the small end basin to line

up with them for photos. 
Pat had secretly brought a bottle of champagne along to cap the proceedings.  There are attractive moorings here, but the proxmity of the M6 motorway does make it a little noisy.  Nonetheless, we found some shelter from the wind and had alfresco lunch in the increasingly warm sunshine.  We also had time to visit the nearby farm shop across the road.  Retracing our steps we made for Hest Bank again.   There is a little time to spare before our return to 'The Mainland', so we will spend two nights here and make a visit to Morecambe tomorrow.

Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway

George's Blog

Today we all went on a train.  It took an awful long time and I got a little bored to be honest.  Just as I was dozing off another dog got on my train so I had to go and say hallo and make sure that Nana and Grandad were safe.  When we got to where we were going (Ravenglass) they had something to drink and eat.  Nana had only brought me a few nibbles which wasn't very fair.    Then we went on a little train.  Here's a picture of me next to the engine.

This ride was great because we were able to sit outside and I could watch everything go by.  There were lots of sheep and cows, but I'm not allowed to chase them.  When the train stopped we got off and went for a short walk.   Then we all went back again.  Bit silly if you ask me, but the little train was fun.

 

Carnforth

First job this morning was to get water.  There was no shortage of water points at the moorings we were on.  Then onwards.  Our companions had gone ahead and intelligence from Minnehaha suggested that moorings at Carnforth would be difficult.   However, I digress.  This must be one of the best sections of the canal.  The houses and gardens in Hest Bank and Bolton Le Sands were all very tidy and attractive, and the scenery with occasional views looking out over the bay with the lakeland hills in the background stupendous.   All too suddenly we were in Carnforth and no moorings obviously available.  One attempt at the end of the line proved impossible due to depth, however, our friends came to the rescue and negotiated a future space becoming available and a breast up until then.   Seemingly there's quite a lot to do here, we're next to a garage for coal (and diesel if I had a jerry can), Tesco and a steam railway.  More anon.

A mooring soon came available.  It was only later that evening we discovered we were on reserved moorings for the Lancaster Canal Waterbus and, contrary to what we had been told, the moorings were needed that evening for a 'Fish & Chips Cruise'.  Luckily space was now available further back, although underwater obstructions are a serious problem at Carnforth.   A evening meal in the Canal Turn pub followed.

Lancaster and Hest Bank

Time has come to move on again.  Michael is back from a quick visit to London although most of the objectives there unrealised due to a nasty bout of 'flu over the last week.  The spell at Glasson has been really enjoyable, the moorings excellent and the locality interesting.  The nearby large car park has seen much activity over the holiday period.  Pat has become a little irritated by the passers by who, perhaps not realising that the boat is occupied, try to peer into the windows.  We visited the smokehouse shop - more a shed - hidden round the back of some industrial units at the dock, where there is a huge range of smoked fishand other goodys on sale.  Fresh kippers seemed right.  Now, nothing for it but to up moorings and press on.
Pat walked ahead and Nuggler followed after a discreet inetrval. The bottom lock gates were open. Just as well with Braidbar No 66 moored on the lock landing.  To our dismay there was a very low pound ahead due no doubt to the leaking top gates. We got out of the lock OK, but passage became slower until finally stopping aground about 2/3 of the way to the next lock.  The owner of 66 is a local and helped Pat send some water down which was just enough to allow me to complete the slow crawl to the next lock, get in and it on the bottom.  The BW lengthsman had in the meantime walked up to the top and back and informed us that we should be OK.  He then later appeared from the top to say that a boat was coming down, we would later find to be the first of only two boats seen moving today.  Rejoining the main canal we pressed on to Lancaster, finding the mooring used by our friends the night before in the first basin opposite the hospital and alongside the student accommodation.  This gives convenient access to the town and we set off to look at the shops and find a decent food store which we did - a Somerfield near the bus station.  Not really wanting to spend the night in Lancaster, we decided to move on and find somewhere a little more 'countryfied'.  It took quite a while to clear the residential area of Lancaster, including the amazing Lune Aqueduct, and then with mooring difficult due to the shallow sides and continualy searching for the best location, we found ourselves at Hest Bank next to our companions of Cutweb, Levick and Pilgrim.  Truly a beautiful spot with fine views over Morecambe Bay.