UK Canals - Journey reports

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Leaving Cowley around 08:00 we came up behind a full size dumb barge laden with a heap of scrap metal being worked up through Cowley Lock.  We joined the tug in the lock.  The boatman was repairing to the lockside cafe so would not impede further progress.   He was concerned, however, about the gravel barges because his large vessel was blocking the lock approach.  We passed ARUNDEL (without its butty)  loaded with gravel in the next pound and were hoping that Uxbridge Lock gates would be open for us as we would expect.   They were and we arrived just in time to enter the lock before the boatman operating the large gravel barge was able to turn it around.   At the next lock, Denham Deep, a group of total novices on the Denham Boat Services day boat "Lovely Job" were receiving instruction and I think we caused a bit of confusion by leaping all around the lock as we do.   Passage was, of necessity, a little slower than usual!     Finally we returned to our mooring in the marina to find the car with a totally flat battery.   It seems that the solar charger which I attach to the battery when away was no longer working.   Charging up a totally flat car battery takes ages and after two hours there was still not enough charge to turn the engine over.   We had to wait for another two hours for the rescue service to attend.

Cowley Peachey

No point in leaving early this morning, so we waited till after 9:00 when the lock-keepers come on duty, and set off.  The only other traffic was a large cruiser on the way to Rochester, that joined us in Sunbury Lock.  The long moorings at Teddington were empty apart from one narrowboat facing upstream.  Half an hour before high tide we aimed for the lock which had just been vacated by a large trip boat heading for Hampton Court and 15 minutes later were in the tideway, joined by a tiny cruiser and its lone occupant who stuck behind us all the way to Brentford.   Our intention was to carry on up the Hanwell flight and he likewise, so we would have company.   The difficulty here was to try and find a way of working given our differing techniques.  He, for example, wanted to work his own side and was used to roping his boat in and out of the locks.  So we went in first on the offside, used a bow and centre rope and never opened our side gate paddles to limit the narrowboat surging across the lock suddenly.   Leaving Brentford Gauging Locks at 15:00, we reached the top at 17:50.   There was more evidence of BW cut backs.  The lock sides were weedy, and vegetation in several cased obscured the sight line into the locks with the stairs overgrown with nettles and brambles.  Gone it seems when pride in their local patch gained the local team awards for their work - assuming that awards are even still given.

Walton-on-Thames

Not so far to go today as we will obviously not make Teddington by 12:30.   So we left later than usual - 07:10.   Yes, I know,we can't help ourselves.   The first two locks both had power, first the massively long Romney Lock and then Old Windsor Lock (because its near Old Windsor, not because of age).  The weather was cooler and cloudier with much more wind necessitating the heavy coat.   A mooring was available near the Anglers so we took it.   This will put us in a good position to make Teddington in the morning.

Windsor

Just in case we might be able to accelerate our return home by catching the tide on Tuesday, we left early - just before 7:00.   Pat went to the lock to grapple with the electronic controls for the "out of hours power".  However, she reported that nothing worked.  Then whilst waiting for me she decided to use the manual wheel (96 turns to open a gate).  Then precisely at 7:00 the power available light came on.   There is one of these boxes at each end of the lock, but they are interlocked so that it is not possible to open paddles at each end (as I have seen a lock-keeper do!).  There is a small point which catch catch out the novice however.  The gates will only open if the paddles are up.  I arrived at Abingdon lock early one morning and found the lock empty and ostensibly ready for me but I couldn't get the gates to open.  Much time was wasted running back and forth between each end of the lock thinking that the problem was at the other end.   Finally it dawned on me.  Just pretend the lock is full and raise the paddles - an automatic  4 minute timed staged process once the button is pressed.  Some locks have no public power and for them the wheel and much winding is required, like the next lock we came to - Shiplake.       At Marlow Lock we were forced to wait while a three large cruisers were let down but were entranced by a mother grebe and her two young chicks riding on her back, then being thrown off and being taught to dive.  Dad then arrived with some food for them. (Click on the picture to enlarge).   Finally we made Windsor.  Pat wanted a bottle of milk, but before we could get that we saw a dutch barge belonging to one of our CUTWEB friends and stopped for a chat and peep at the boat.   If wanting to live on a boat, this must be the way.  So much more room.    Mooring was a bit of a problem.   The field on the Eton side was nearly full and an attempt to moor in the only gap got us firmly aground about four feet from the bank.   After poleing off we eventually got a spot nearer the railway bridge and potentially quieter.  There was a fairground operating inn the field.

Sonning

Leaving Shillingford around 08:00 we son came to Benson Lock which unfortunately has no out of hours power.   Sam and Gemma took turns winding the handles to power the hydraulics that work the gates and paddles.   A good workout after the full english breakfast that started the day!  Not many locks today.  Cleeve and Goring Locks soon passed and we decided to stop early for lunch as again, the weather was sunny and hot.   The youngsters took the opportunity for a swim. The last leg to Reading took 2:25 hrs and having said goodbye to our last crew we made the short hop to Sonning to be in a good position for the last few days journey home.   We are aiming for the midday tide on Wednesday.

Shillingford

With Gemma and Sam as crew we left at 08:00.  The Thames Lock-Keepers come on duty at 09:00, but as Osney Lock has power out of hours we were soon through and on our way.   At the next lock, the lockie was also not on duty, but had turned the power on for us, so no problem there.   At Abingdon Lock we were signalled to enter alongside a large trip boat,but it was obvious we would not squeeze in and had to back out much to the embarrasment of the lock-keeper who explained that he was a relief lock-keeper and had to keep a lot of figures in his head.   Abingdon was busy, but we were not planning to stop there.  We had lunch on the move and as it was such a beautiful warm day decided to stop early at Shilingford on a bank mooring above the bridge where there was some grass and an option of setting up a barbeque.  As it happened it was so pleasant that we set the gazebo up as well, so did the whole thing in style.

Osney Bridge, Oxford

Harry has been very enthusiastic working the locks and is now fully conversant with the routine, so he came into his own for the last four manual locks today.  There was work in progress above Dukes Lock prettying up the towpath, but we stopped here anyway for water.  Once pon the Thames, Harry had a turn a the helm.  On arrival at Osney Bridge where there were plenty of moorings (it was 12:15) we visited the Watermans Arms for lunch and then said goodbye to Debbie & Harry to await Gemma and Sam.

The Jolly Boatman

After a hot breakfast, we left the mooring at 08:00 and continued south.  About 5 boats passed us going the other way while we were in this pound, but Somerton Deep Lock with its iconic lock house was deserted and the lock was half empty.   Harry leaps about with great enthusiasm and will not be beaten by the stiff lockgear.   So we were soon on our way again.   Locks are infrequent on this part of the canal, but as the valley sides steepen and the canal twists and turns, so the locks occur more frequently. At Northbrook Lock there was a queue of 4 boats waiting to come up, so plenty of help to get us down.   We stopped for lunch at the disused quarry and agin at the farm shop on the boat above Pigeons Lock.   Lots of tempting food here, tarts, cakes, pies and differnt types of chutney and preserves.   Soon we were on the river and its deeper water allows more normal speed for the boat, this reach terminating in one of the curious six sided broad weir locks.   Coming into Thrupp with its large lifting bridgewe were disappointed to see no mooring space available, so had to continue on.   There was space available outside the Jolly Boatman however.   This is not such a peaceful mooring as there is a main road on the other side of the hedge.   However, the pub is tidy.

Aynho Wharf

Got to the lauderette at 09:01 with our load of washing and managed to talk the manager in to doing a service wash for us, ready at 11:00.   I then went to the supermarket to find Pat to help carry home the provisions we need for the next few days.  Sure enough, the laundry was ready on time, beautifully folded.  Our guests, Debbie and her 9 year old son Harry arrived on time at the station and we wasted no time in getting moving.  We were by now in need of a pump out, diesel and water.   Aynho Wharf could help us, but they close at 4:30 - could we get there in time.  There were boats ahead of us and opposite dirction boats to add to the coctail and it looked as if we would be too late.    So, arriving at 4:25 we didn't expect any help.   However, "No problem"!   We were able to get the full treatment and a mooring opposite to boot.   This was an ideal situation for the "Great Western Arms" where we had an excellent meal in the restaurant arden with attentive service.

Banbury

This morning, we met just one perfectly timed opposite direction boat on the Claydon flight of locks.  After that though, traffic started to build up and whe we reached Cropredy we were in a queue of three waiting for the lock.   Opposite direction traffic became a factor and we were waiting now at every lock, not that this was a problem in any way.  Soon we reached the outskirts of Banbury and the inevitable line of permanently moored boats before coming to Sovereign Wharf where we wanted diesel.  It was closed for lunch.  There was a 61foot space on the moorings  outside Castle Quay shopping centre, so we stopped here to have something to eat before moving on again, under the Tom Rolt Bridge and past the Historic Tooley's Boatyard of Rolt's book "Narrowboat" fame to be nearer the Morrisons Supermarket on the other side of town.   We need a launderette and provisions.   I found the launderette quickly enough but had to drag the bag of laundry back to the boat because it was "half day closing".   There should be time for laundry tomorow morning before our guests arrive to join us as far as Oxford.

Fenny Compton

We had no probles up the Napton Flight early in the morning, all the locks being essentially empty.  Then the cruise along the twists and turns of the summit level before arriving at Fenny around 11:30.   The promised fine weather didn't realy arrive until the afternon, the morning was sunny spells, but the cold biting wind was still with us until the shelter of the hedge where we were moored.

Napton

Really, This should be entitled "No room at the Inn", but more of that later.   Leaving at the usual time, i.e. before most boaters have got out of bed, we had the first few Fosse Locks on our own.  Now we were climbing again.  Pat still needed to rest her ankle, so she was at the helm.  Mike on the bike.   At each lock I took a centre rope off to a rear bollard and only opened the ipsilateral paddle. The boat is very stable in this configuration but open the opposite paddle and it can go anywhere violently.  Riding ahead I caught the tail end of one of the Kate hire boats that passed us yesterday, just leaving the lock.  It was to be several locks later before we caught them up because of opposite direction traffic holding us up.  We have a pair of CB radios which are very useful so that I can advise Pat to slow down so that she does not have to bother with mooring up to wait.   Further on we came in sight of the Bascote staircase pair.  The hire boat we had seen was attempting a passage but obviously had no idea of how to work because the bottom lock was flooding.  The gates were over-topping like Niagara Falls.  Eventually, someone must have read the instructions.   We finally caught up with them at the next lock as they were waiting for an opposite direction boat, so we joined them in the lock.  A charming boat of Danish holidaymakers who in their generosity let us go first.  Unfortunately we could not return the favour, because at the next lock another boat was waiting to pair up.  Bojangles proved an excellent partner.  Pat was encouraged to attempt parallel running into locks which she had been reluctant to do, but which she turned out to be perfectly adept at.  Two boats going into the lock side by side save a lot of "messing around" as each holds the other in position, but both helmsmen must be skilled.   Together she shot up the Stockton flight in double quick time.   After a brief stop for lunch near the top we carried on with the aim of dining in the evening at the Bridge Inn, near Napton.   Sadly, there was no room on the moorings.  The Folly Inn at Napton had to do, but it s not got the same reputation.

Radford

We like to do lock flights early in the morning.  Generally there are fewer other boats moving to cause delays and pairing up can be a mixed blessing.  Some of the most enjoyable, and instructive transits have been paired with other boats, but other times it can be stressful.  So we left to descend the Hatton flight early.  Pat at the helm, because of her sprained ankle.  To our dismay, the first pound was completely empty.   There was no obvious reason for this, so one must assume leaky gates.   So our first task was to fill it which took about 20 minutes.  Two locks down the BW Lockie arrived to deal with it.  This must be a regular problem.   He said that there was another pound at the Warwick end that would need checking.  This is another problem of leaving early.   We made good progress after that and saw no other boats coming down but passed about three lockings of other boats coming up near the bottom.   By the time we passed the two Cape Locks down onto the sump of the canal we were tired to say the least.  The gates are heavy and the paddle gear is very stiff.  We just worked one side.  We decided to call it a day at Leamington, so did some small shopping for food and moved on to a quiet section of the canal near Radford and the bottom of Fosse Locks where we will start to climb again tomorrow.

Hatton

Another early start.  Needing to be at Hatton by 12:00 to meet Pat at the station I woud rather have time to lose at the end of the journey.  My prediction with regard to locks was correct.  Most were empty.  Being so early in the morning without the likelyhood of opposite direction traffic, I adopted the practice of nosing gently up to the bottom gate then accesing the lockside to either open the gate, or empty the lock in the very few cases where leaks had filled the chamber overnight.  There is no need to rope the boat as even when emptying the lock the water flow will draw the boat in.  This way I reached the top at Kingswood Junction by 09:05 and decided to take the waters. A slow fill this one!   Then onto the Grand Union up to Shrewley Tunnel where I stopped again, this time to visit the village store which you can reach easily, as the notice says, by taking the path which leads up through the short pedestrian tunnel.  Thus I arrived at Hatton with 20 minutes to spare.

Stratford and beyond

Late last night, a boat arrived from the north so there was a good chance that I might have more luck with the locks.   Locks on the Upper Avon Navigation are more standardised that the Lower Navigation.  The gates are substantially made all of steel and are heavy to move. The lock-gear is simple and well engineered.  I heard that the assemblies come from France.  So to be able to cruise straight in to the lock is a bonus.  Many more bollards are provided and right on the lock edge which makes access from the boat much easier, so I settled down into a now well rehearsed routine.   It was interesting to notice that nearing locks the channel would narrow and the current increase markedly, so that much more power was needed to maintain way.   Approaching the last lock before Stratford a remnant of recent floods was half obstructing the channel, a narrowboat with its stern on the bank.   Fortunately, that lock gates into Bancroft Basin were also open, so within a short while I was up off the River.   The Royal Shakespeare Theatre is undergoing major refurbishment and looks a mess.   Similarly the lawns aroud the basin are all cleared and a major redesign is underway with more paths, so for the moment there is no pleasure in staying there.  Taking the chimney down I pressed on under the low bridges to the first (narrow) lock.   No more need for the ropes, but what is the boat going to do when I open the top paddles?   On this canal the locks appeared docile, no rapid movement of the boat.  With a boat behind waiting, there is often help available for silly little tasks like closing gates, so I was able to walk up to the next lock and prepare it to get a head start on the one ahead.  Even single handed I could then keep well in front and not feel that I was delaying the boater behind.  However, at the bottom of the Wilmcote Flight there was a mess of boats ahead some going up, some coming down, but not synchonised in a sensible way so long delays.   Ideally opposite direction boats should just cross in the intervening pound, not have to moor up between each lock.   Towards the top, help was forthcoming from a friendly BW lengthsman ostensibly involved in hedge trimming.  Contnuing on I passed over the scary Edstone Aqueduct and through Wooten Wawen and stopped for the night almost at Lowsonford.   A swarm of opposite direction hire boats in the last hour suggested that I would have a good road in the morning with every chance of making Hatton in good time.

The River Avon

I had planned this part of the trip in my head from recollections of previous trips.  Evidently my recollection was wanting, for I had promised to pick up Pat at Hatton Railway Station on Friday morning.  Today was Wednesday.  It was dawning on me that I had better get a move on, so a 6:00am start saw me on the way.  The river level was "in the green" and the flow (as I was going upstream) not bad because I could easily maintain 4 mph, the speed limit, on 1400 revs. However, how would I be able to deal with the Avon Locks single handed?  The rules on the Lower Avon are that both gates should be opened and the boat roped up fore and aft.  Fortunately at the first lock, Strensham, I had help from a small cruiser moored nearby, once I had moored below on the awkwardly sited lock landing and opened the gates.  As there are no steps up from below, the only way is to enter slowly, throw the stern rope up, then get on the roof with the centre rope and get up the lock ladder with it to secure the boat initially.  Then the stern rope can be tied off to the bollard and a further trip down the lock ladder will retrieve the bow rope to tie off.   The top gate paddles a quite vicious and there is no way to control the boat without adequate lines.  Thanking my helpers I carried on.  The handbook provided by the Lower Avon Trust gives lots of useful information including diagrams of approaches to all the locks with navigational hazards explained, so I was ready for the odd ground paddle on the other side of the lock island at Pershore.  There were short relationships with other boats, but in essence, all the locks were against me, a shame really, because the other rule is that both exit gates are left open.  It was becoming evident to me that progress on the water was slower than progress in my mind.  Evesham was reached at 15:00hrs and I was only halfway up the river.   Such a shame that I was in such a hurry, this journey really deserves a couple of weeks.  I decided that I would stop at 19:00hrs wherever.  So, just past Bidford, I moored up at Elsie and Hiram Billington Lock on the overnight moorings.  I didn't take long to heat up the remains of yesterday's chili and I retired to bed early anticipating another long day in the morning.

The Journey Home - Day 1

I would be alone for the present, Pat having a bad ankle sprain, so having telephoned the Gloucester Lock Keeper to ascertain the state of the river, I winded the boat (actually winded, letting the bow swing round in the strong wind) and set off for Gloucester once again.  A call to Llanthony Bridge and the lock-keeper were dealt with promptly ad I was on the River Severn again.  It must have been running at about 1 - 1.5 mph because I needed 1700 revs to maintain 4 mph which I estimated would get me in to Tewkesbury at about 5 pm.   The problem with the Severn, other than its tendency to flood, is that there is very little to see but the high banks.  Wainlode Hill and the pub at Haw with its modern bridge are just about all there is to break the monotony until the massive Upper Lode Lock, but then one is almost there then.  No crew to make cups of tea for the helmsman.  A call ahead to the resident lock keeper of the Avon Lock at Tewkesbury ascertained that the lock would be ready for me and he could arrange a mooring (£3).   All that remained was for me to buy the licence for me to be on the River (£50).   A quick visit was made to the local Somerfield supermarket to buy a few essentials and an early night for an early start in the morning.

Rea Bridge

Whilst cruising the canal we had spotted tidy moorings at Rea Bridge.  The grass was cut and there was space, so this is where I took the boat.  As a bonus (for some) there is a Tesco store a 10 minute walk away.  As a further bonus there is the bridge keeper who obviously keeps an eye on things in the day time.  I secured the boat with some chains to the angle iron which is ubiquitous on the top of the piling on this canal.  It was a nice warm day and I had just set a chair out on the grass with a can of beer and reading the newspaper when Oliver Cromwell came by.  I guess this is the largest vessel regularly operating on the canal - a mock stern wheeler used as a hotel boat.   The draw from its passage broke the bow chain (actually an old dog lead) and the bow swung out.  Easily rectified, but only because I was watching.  I reverted to two stakes and a proper spring line with a further centre high tensile locking wire on the centre!   

Back to Gloucester

Hempstead Road Bridge and the large bascule bridge at the entrance to Gloucester City Docks are not available to leisure boaters between 8:20 and 9.00 for the rush hour.  Accordingly we delayed our departure from the norm, but we were much later than 9:00 arriving in the end.  A call to the LLantony Bridge operator ascertained that we should find the pontoon we really need to disembark "Grannie".   We did indeed find one, next to "Hazel" a sister boat from Braidbar.   We are now returning to London for a catch up with post and hope to resume the cruise on Tuesday, weather permitting.   Gloucester moorings are 48 hour, so the boat will move to a secret location in the meantime.

The return

Yesterday, the group disassembled. Levick and Pilgrim went north and Uncle Mort departed also. Just Heaven was going to move nearer to the bridge and we left for Sharpness. Sunshine and occasional short showers were enjoyed but not the wind in our faces. We moored up and walked down to the end of the old arm and disused sea locks where in the clear air we had a good view of the distant Severn Bridge and the wide estuary.  The tide was in and although the water surface was relatively quiet, with the wind this would not be the situation below the lower bridge and the planned cruise to Portishead and Bristol was clearly not an option. The met chart shows another low pressure system and more bad weather on the way. We returned to the boat for lunch and just in time to sit out a really heavy shower. Then we set about the return. There is a BW compound just south of Purton Lower Bridge with a water point and new card operated pump out machine. WE availed ourselves of water and then crossed the canal to take on diesel from nb Stokie at 80p/litre (compared with he 93.25p at Stourport). We moored the boat nearby and walked down to the Berkeley Arms. This pub in a farm house sits right on the bank of the estuary with fantastic views to the north - but the farm gate was closed. Hours 7 to 11 pm weekdays! Returning to the boat we continued north and found a mooring at Fretherne Bridge for the night. Visited the Bell at Frampton. Clearly specalising in food we were a little disappointed with the range of ales, but did enjoy a pint of Doom Bar.

Today - we moved a little further north, past Saul and on to Quedgeley Wharf. Time for a bit of boat maintenance. There's always rust spots to deal with, brass to polish and varnishing to do.

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Saul Festival

Our Group moorings at the festival with Cutweb were some way from the festival entrance. Such is the way with such things. We had requested a mooring with wide grassy towpath suitable for socialising, but the weather forecast was not good. Steve and Heddi's boat was already moored when we arrived on Thursday, Angela and Mike on Levic and Barbara and Malcolm on Pilgrim arrived on Friday morning having been down to Sharpness and back. It was 5 p.m. before the remaining two boats, Capt.Beeky and Sheila on Uncle Mort and Andrew and Wendy on Lord Toulouse arrived. By this time the weather had broken and we were set for a night of rain. Saturday dawned bright with broken sunshine and I had a chance to look round the show. There is a large marquee for the set piece performances with the major folk music groups for which tickets are required, but music is all around, in the beer tent, on the canalside, the large hotel boat "Oliver Cromwell" (The civil war was big around this part of the world) and the theatre barge "Sabrina". There are also plenty of trade stands, though little in the way of general chandlery. Part of the reason to be here is to give voluntary support to the festival in support of the aims of the Cotswold Canals Trust and I have found myself helping with car parking. Pat took "Grannie" into the festival for a look round yesterday, but her Mum is not the most nimble and finds it a bit of a struggle, so evening trips for the music are out for us. During my afternoon/evening session in the car park yesterday the rain clouds gathered again and we had a very wet evening. The Cutwebbers were determined to have a session together and I returned from my car parking duties to find them drinking and laughing in the wind and rain huddled under umbrellas. It was too cold to stay long - so much for summer. Today, Sunday, it is supposed to brighten up again. The general forecast does not look good for a transit of the Bristol Channel which apart from the navigational challenges in the upper reaches becomes virtually open sea at the Avonmouth end. Not the place for a narrowboat in bad weather. Not wishing to wait indefinitely for weather - we need to be back home by the end of the month - we will try and return via Stratford on Avon if the state of the rivers allows. More rain overnight this Monday morning leads us to start worrying about the state of the rivers we have to use to return home.                                                               

The trading street                                                                           Steam Launches

Saul Junction

Last night we had a good meal at the "Tall Ships".   This morning a shopping expedition to stock up for the weekend.  Then about 10:45 we set off, through the LLantony Lift bridge, first for the pump-out and waterpoint.  By 11:10 we were done and on our way.   Two more bridges needed to be swung to bring us to our mooring 2 hours later.   The wind is still very strong and took my hat on the way.   There will be no hope of us getting to Bristol if it keeps on like this.

Saul Junction

Gloucester Docks

This morning we had to wait for the lock-keeper, so a late start at 8:25.   Slowing for the lock the red light was flashing, so it was just a mater of dawdling.  The light then went green and we were in.   We passed the trip boat Conway Castle at Upton on Severn and a little while later heard it on the VHF calling up for traffic information on the gravel base further on where two gravel barges are providing an alternatng shuttle moving gravel over about  two miles.   Later this boat was passing us when the skipper called over for us to heave-to as one of the gravel barges was opposite direction.  Conway Castle turned and went into the Avon, whilst we continued on.  Upper Lode Lock light went green before we got there, so no delay there. Onwards again for the 3 hour leg to Gloucester.  Calling Gloucester on the radio got no repsonse and a telephone call got the answer machine, but turning the corner, the lock was ready for us.   We were joined in the lock by a neat short, Piper built broadbeam.  Then the difficulty on getting onto the short pontoon in the cross wind - two attempts, the latter heavily dependent on the bow thruster!.    All the pontoon cleats are in the wrong places, so we end up with a cats cradle of ropes in places that I wouldn't ideally put them.

Short mooring pontoons, Gloucester Docks

Worcester

We have arrived in Worcester.   Pat duly collected her washing and we moved down to the water point for half an hour, then on to pick up some diesel at Stroudwater Cruisers.  Then a very unevetful run in hazy sunshine.   Granny thinks we are on the Thames, but hey - all water looks the same, doesn't it.  Sadly for her, I can't get TV reception here.  Malvern is shown as giving cover, but nothing worth watching.