UK Canals - Journey reports

Return to Harefield Marina

Needing to be home today, and bearing in mind the likelyhood of extra weekend traffic we left our mooring at 6:30 and were immediately joined by another boat off the Winkwell Visitor Moorings.  The relationship worked well enough until Hemel Hempstead when another boat moved out in front, effectively forcing us to join this boat in the first of the Apsley Lock.  This man & wife team looked highly organised immediately with the bike for the lock wheeling Annie and Dave at the helm.  With our luxury of an organised four man/woman crew we fairly shot down the cut and I was beginning to enviseage a 3 pm arrival at Harefield.  However, at Cassio Lock we found ourselves behing two single handers and upcoming boats, so quite a long wait there but time for lunch.  Annie was excellent at cycling on ahead and helping the single handers through with the aid of our lock-running crew, but a burst of opposite direction traffic really slowed things down.  After Rickmansworth we were in the clear again and gave us an arrival time of 16:00.   Once again, the car battery was absolutely flat, in spite of the extra large 1 foot square solar panel which is supposed to eliminate such problems.   There was nothing for it but to attach it to the boat batteries with jump leads and run the engine for 45 minutes.  Tomorrow will be maintenance and boat cleaning day.

Bourne End

A late start.  Off blocks at 08:00.  Approaching our first lock we were met by the outrider of a flotilla of 3 narrowboats, the crew of which were all on a corporate team exercise - to get to Leighton Buzzard in the fastest time possible.  By filling the lock and locking down we did not delay the first boat, but the remaining two were waiting for us below the next lock.   I wonder what their time will be in the end.   Being weekend, other traffic is likely to be heavier and will seriously impede their progress, so they might not make it in the 7 hours that we took.  Having an active crew of four is a serious luxury for us, so we made excellent time, first more more shopping at Waitrose in Berhamsted, then a leisurely lunch canalside before Bourne End.  Exactly while mooring up for the promised barbecue, the rain started.

Cowroast and Cow Roast

We heard last night that Gemma and Sam will be able to join us for the weekend.  The nearest railhead to our route will be Tring, so we needed to be sure to reach the top of the Marsworth flight of locks.  We were aware that Friday morning is a big turnround day at Wyvern Shipping in Leighton Buzzard and the boats were likely to be gathering below Leighton Lock for the final push this morning, so we left extra early at 6 am.   Sure enough we were at the lock first, joined by the first of the hirers also anxious to beat the rush and get a better spot on the hire base moorings.  So by 7:35 we were in TESCOs doing last minute shopping for our extra guests.   Moving off we soon reached Grove Lock and were joined by "Lazy Days" who had been lying in wait a way back until a boat passed, because it "is much easier doing broad locks when can be shared".   There are 17 locks to the top from Grove and a good working relationship soon developed with Pat ahead preparing the gates and the other boat's crew closing behind and walking on.   So in spite of following another boat ahead we reached Tring bridge by 15:10.   Our original intention had been to return to Bulbourne for the night to avail ourselves of the Junction Arms.  However, first mate on Lazy Days suggested  Cow Roast pub across the main road from the Cowroast lock.  It is now run as a pub and restaurant serving the "best Tai food in the county".   Indeed, it lived up to our expectations - another chance finding to put in the log book.  This will definitely be on our list of mandatory stops in the future.

Soulbury Three

This time the planner puts us at Stoke Hammond Lock for the night, but one lock further on is "the Three Locks" pub, so we aimed there.   Pat had some shopping to do at the large TESCO in Wolverton, so that accounts for one hour.   Then we had the long run through Milton Keynes, coming up behind slower boats always a risk - and sure enough.   Funny really, because the speed difference is usually only a fraction of a mile/hour, yet it is always frustrating.   The best way of handling this is to find some excuse to stop, so we pulled in for fuel at Willowbridge Marina (50p self service).  Continuing on we came up behind a Wyvern hire boat that had passed us on the wharf and joined them up to the top of the three locks.   The pub looked run down and not well looked after, though clearly a popular spot in the day with gongoozlers. 

Return to Stoke Bruerne

We have a CIBC barbecue invitation for Saturday at Bourne End.  Nick Atty's Canal Planner indicates a timing of about 7 hours per day to get there and breaking this up into useful overnight moorings puts us in Stoke Bruerne tonight.   We left at 6:40 and arrived at 14:00 after a 1/2 hour water stop at Gayton Junction.  Weather stiflingly hot again.  The cool air in thte tunnel and occasional roof "showers" were very welcome.   Lucky too to find some shade in the tunnel cutting.  Eating out again in "The Boat" Inn.

Buckby

We left early to hit Hillmorton before traffic buildup. A following boat crew member offered to close exit gates for me, Pat being ahead, so in return I prepared the alternate lock for them. After the long run into Braunston we attempted to fill the water tank at the sanitary station by Midland Chandlers, but the flow was so slow, that we enviseaged a two hour wait. So after buying some brassware set off for the locks expecting delays, but no. Titan joined us for the second lock on - a 55' tug style just purchased half an hour previously. Lunch in the shade at the top then the cool of the tunnel. My intention was to continue on at Buckby, but Pat had had enough of the heat so we stayed. Welcome beers in the New Inn and bed almost under the stars with all the hatches open.

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Rugby - a little further on!

On arrival at Rugby we had moored for the supermarket.  The better morrings, limited to about 5 boats are on the other side of the canal where a small park has been created, ideal for getting the table and chairs out and indeed for a barbeque.   So when the opportunity presented itself yesterday, I moved across.  Pat set off for London for an overnight stop and will be returning later today.  Last night was spent nattering to a very talkative local and to the owners of nb Ratae, Len & Marlene.   Between these three the world was put to rights and various items of knowledge exchanges as well as narrowboating stories.  Ratae is the latin for Leicester I learned. 

As these are 24 hour moorings I am duty bound to move, so I took the boat nearer to the aqueduct over the River Avon which gives good access to the railway station.  I has been a roasting hot day again, unhappily for the dogs who really suffer, so by moving I also managed to find some shade.  A number of minor maintenance chores were undertaken.

Rugby

Again, just cruising on the level today.  We arrived at Rugby at about midday.   The North Oxford is a well engineered canal with deep cuttings and embankments giving it a straight course.  Sadly in many ways it seems neglected.   There are shallows, and the deep cutting side near Brinklow has slumped.  The towpath in many places is just a jungle, pretty well impassable for a cyclist.  Vegetation also obscures many bridge approaches.   Rugby boasts a useful supermarket by bridge 58.

The Greyhound - Sutton Stop

Just as we were about to leave a hedgehog trotted up along the towpath.  It seemed quite unconcerned by our interest.  Today's cruise is just clocking miles to Hawkesbury Junction - Coventry Canal with North Oxford.  The weather cold at first became brighter, then sunnier, then hot.  All the exitement of the day was at the junction where the two canals run parallel for a short distance requiring a 180 degree turn into a stop lock.  It was very busy.  A hire boat appeared to be attempting the turn from the opposite direction, but then it wasn't.  This spoiled my turn.  There was no opportunity for dallying as the wind was in control. Eventually it all got sorted out and eventually we found a mooring, although on the curve which is always difficult for us with the dogs.  They don't like jumping the gap, so we have to leave the stern sticking out and that requires three mooring pins.  Once all sorted we repaired to the Greyhound pub for the afternoon and when rehydrated back to the boat to dress for dinner in the restaurant.   As on our last visit the meal was excellent - three courses and wine for £50.

Atherstone

Mike S is a yacht skipper more used to ocean racing than narrowboating, so taking the helm came naturally until the quirks of shallow canal navigating manifested themselves, like bank effect and lack of control in reverse.  Much of the Coventry Canal is in large pounds and our planned day today would have involved no locks at all, so we decided to go on to Atherstone which would then include the two locks at Glascote as well as the 11 at Atherstone itself.  Mike soon got the hang of sterring through narrow locks, so Pat and I were able to enjoy the luxury of working the locks.  Glascote, always a bottleneck, involved a wait of three boats including two single handers who were helping each other.   Then the long pound through Tamworth which brought no surprises.  Finally, approaching Atherstone bottom lock we found ourselves first, so set up our usual team but with the luxury of a "full time" helmsman, Mike.  Pat ahead soon radioed back that there were boats ahead and soon enough, even with an opposite direction boat to slow us down, we were up behind a pair of small boats working the locks together.  With a crew of four they should have been able to leave us in the dust, but were not employing labour saving techniques.  At the marina, a boat shot out in front and this held both teams up, so at the top we found that we had taken 3 hours for 11 single locks compared with 3 hours for the 21 double locks of Hatton.  Mike's journey back to Rugeley would be problematic possibly.   There is only one train a day it seems from Atherstone to Rugeley.  He will need three buses to get back.   Tomorrow we hope to be at Hawkesbury Junction for a great meal at the Greyhound (table booking made this time!).

Fradley

We wern't the first to leave our moorings this morning, but the earlier boat was obviously on a mission because we didn't catch up until very much later when we passed it moored.  Favourable opposite direction traffic helped us through Colwich Lock and before long we were at Rugeley on a very convenient mooring just next to bridge 66 for the shops.  We were expecting Mike S, guest crew for two days, so needed shopping and a launderette.  There is a good Morrisons nearby, but the lauderette was more difficult.  Neither "yell.co.uk" nor "upmystreet.com" had any reference, but a chance conversation in one of the shops proved to the contrary and with the help of a street cleaner we found the said launderette with Barbara, its very welcoming and helpful attendant.  Mike arrived on a folding bike at around midday, so bike duly stowed, we set off for Fradley.  It was a loveley sunny day, so lunch was enjoyed bankside at a site just before the narrows at Armitage.  Fradley Locks, beginning with Woodend Lock were not congested and we made a straight descent.  Unusually there seemed to be plenty of moorings available on the Coventry.   So we enjoyed a pub meal and some beers at the Swan and had an early night.

Shugborough Hall

Highlight of the day was a visit to Shugborough Hall. It started as a routine departure from Radford Bridge. We arrived at Haywood Junction early enough and spent ages taking water and doodling around into Anglo Welsh Wharf for diesel, gas and pump-out - all given with humour and cheerful service from the "lad". He even showed me a new trick of chucking the gas bottle in the water and pulling it to the front of the boat with a boat hook (we were moored stern on). Yes, full gas bottles float! Then we moved 100 yards to a mooring above the lock and walked to the Shugborough Mansion. The beautiful gardens and the pile, still the seat of the Earl of Lichfield but under National Trust ownership was very well worth the visit.

Approaching Shugborough from the canal                                                                   The China House in the gardens

Radford Bridge, Stafford

Our lock problem solved, we set off early expecting to do a long day as Grannie needs to get a train home on Monday and Stafford seems the best bet.   The nearest the canal gets to Stafford is Radford Bridge and this will extend our planned cruising day, especially as we were delayed yesterday.   All went well, in fact we arrived at Gailey by 11:30.  Then our troubles started.  There was a long queue for the lock, the first downhill lock after the long top pound.   We should have expected it really, especially being a Sunday.   So that was an hour delay.  Then the boat in front of us was a single hander.  This in itself should present no problem except that the boat in front was helping him.   This is madness, because normally, once started on a flight, boats sequence themselves so that there is no delay.  But with the boat in front of him waiting to see him through there was always a delay at the next lock because there were two boats arriving at once and not one.   Ideally, it is the boat behind that should help if help is needed, and the best help is someone to close the gates behind the single hander on exit.  The boat in front would have been more useful telling opposite direction traffic to leave the top gates open for him.   With this cumulative delay it was 6 pm before we reached our destination and our friends on ADA who had been waiting for us.  An excellent meal and a few beers were enjoyed that evening in the "Radford Bank" pub and carvery.

Vandalism at Whitwick

We did a routine early 7:15 start as we were technically behind schedule.  Our last night should have been at Rocky Lock.  The canal is shallow overall, so progress was slow.  Later in the day evidence of dredging was seen, so BW is on to it.  I had forgotten the extent of the red sandstone cliffs that mark the eastern side of this canal, pretty well from Austcliffe to Rocky Lock.  At Botherham staircase Pat had a short "discussion" with boaters coming the otherway as to why she had to drain the upper staircase chamber without letting them enter the lock.   In fairness, from above the lock, there is nothing to show that this is in fact a staircase.  The bridge between the chambers completely obstructs the view to the lower chamber.   I would imagine that flooding is commonplace.   Bratch locks were impressive and we were lucky to be able to tag onto the end of the queue of two other boats going up.   The attendant lock keepers admitted that they were only there really to stop fisticuffs.    Our luck gave out at Whitwick.   A queue of seven boats foretold trouble ahead.   It seems that vandals had removed the pins holding the bottom gate retaining straps and when the lock was drained the gates fell in.   A picture is better than a thousand words!  It would seem that we are here for the night! 

PS.  16:30 hrs.   Gates back on now and traffic disipating.

Stewponey

Wilsons delivered the repaired cratch cover just before our 24 hour mooring deadline, so we moved on to the water point and then the two more locks to Stewponey for the night.

Kinver

It looks as if the recent heat wave has broken. This morning, it was raining and raining hard. It eased off later, but the rain was with us intermittently until well in to the afternoon. Leaving FARNE, a fellow Braidbar boat, whom we have leapfrogged since leaving Saul, we negotiated the twin double staircase locks at Stourport and Pat went off into town to get a paper. She was back by the time I had dawdled through the basins. There seemed to be a lot of opposite direction traffic building up with COUNT, another Braidbar, and sundry hire boats waiting to go down in the rain. Following PERFIK up the first lock we set off on today’s journey to Kinver. Progress was very slow, as the canal seems very shallow; more so than I remember from our experiences in a hire boat 5 years ago. Much has changed since then: the visitor moorings at Stourport for example. There has also been a lot of development in Kidderminster with a brand new TESCO and many other stores in some kind of massive retail development below the town lock. So it was around 4 pm before we reached Kinver. Our last visit was only our second trip on the canals and this time we were much more appreciative of the beauty of this canal with its sandstone cliffs and the hills on either side of the Stour Valley. At Kinver we visited the workshops of “Wilsons” of Kinver, the original makers, to get some repairs made to our cratch cover. So we will be having a rest day tomorrow waiting for the work to be done. We visited the well-known Vine pub this evening and the restaurant there. The Vine has been in the news recently as there was a plan to demolish it and build houses. One can see why. There is a long and extensive canal frontage which the developers thought would be ideal for houses, however, completely the wrong thing to do. The pub is a landmark and must bring visitors into the village. Thankfully, the villagers blocked the plan and the pub remains, otherwise we would have had yet another sterile waterfront development.

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Upton upon Severn

We were very disappointed with Upton on Severn.  Sure, the pubs looked very picturesque and the church is clearly a landmark with its copper cupula dome.   However we needed diesel, so I tried telephoning the marina, but each time got an answerphone "Sorry there is no one to take your call at the moment.  Please leave a message.." etc.   Now we all know that this means that the only person on duty is busy and that they will never have time to ring back within any meaningful time interval if at all.  So we carried on and entered the marina, found the signs to the refuelling pontoon, always of course in the farthest corner.  Only when we moored up did we see the words in small type at the bottom of the opening hours notice "Closed on Tuesdays".   Nothing in the answerphone message, nothing on the marina sign at the entrance which suggested that all services were available.  Our verdict:  Zero marks for customer service. Moving on, the dogs needed a comfort stop.  Thumbs down for the much vaunted visitor moorings.  Only room there for two boats ( 4 if two moor on the wong side).   The moorings by the pub were full, one boat having great difficulty getting off, clearly well aground.  After a short wait a space on the steep stepped wall became available, although one would need rock climbing gear to get off there.   Not a hope for dogs and certainly not grannie.   So we carried on to the racecourse public moorings at Worcester.

Gloucester Docks again

With the Saul festival over, it is time to start the journey home - the long way round.   Our first port of call is Gloucester Docks again, mainly to avail ourselves of the shops for provisions, especially dog food.   Weather still hot, but the breeze travelling at Warp Factor 5 along this broad canal (speed limit 6 mph) was very refreshing.   The new works for the bypass bridge where the canal is diverted are progressing and the new bridge control tower and sections of the bridge itself are taking shape.  The original line of the canal has been dammed off and is being pumped out.  The canal narrows for the "bridge hole" and visibility restricted round the corner.   If any bridge needs lights, then this one does now.   We were having to wait for bridges that need to be swung, mainly because of the amount of traffic.  Clearly the bridge keepers would prefer boats to pass in groups.  I did feel sorry for the Hempsted Road Bridge keeper who has to wind this busy road bridge manually.   He says it is affected by the heat.