UK Canals - Journey reports

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We had a lie-in this morning and got up at 6:45 am.   But then it is the early bird that catches the worm for as I was musing the question of going out to get a morning paper a BW man in black came by and told us that if we went straight away, we could be roped past the obstruction.  So it was.  We were mobile in 1 minute and were first of the three boats waiting on our side.  The dredger and mud float were moored up over the top of the hole in the bottom of canal and there was just room to squeeze the boat around behind and through the bridge hole.  There appeared to be quite a few boats waiting to come through on the other side and Cowley Lock was manned by 4 BW chaps.   We learned that the damage was serious and that the canal will have to be closed and dammed off to rectify the problem, so the passge through was only possible while the engineers awaited the arrival of the heavy plant necessary.  This will all take a week or more and will seriously affect those wishing to travel to the Canalway Cavalcade event at Little Venice this coming weekend.  Our journey back to Harefield Marina was uneventful thereafter.

Stoppage at Cowley

Today we are marooned at Cowley, but more of that later.  After departure checks, i.e. VHF, anchor out and ready for deployment, sealing the Eberspacher exhaust, donning life jackets, moving loose objects to a safer place, weed hatch check (part of a mooring hawser and enumerable plastic bags) we entered Limehouse lock at 9.00 am along with two cruisers destined for Teddington.  Limehouse reach was essentially calm, that is until the very fast catarmaran commuter service boat passed us going up river.  The wash from this boat took the form of a very long swell which had Nuggler pitching impressively, though not enough to take water over the bows.   The morning was cold and misty which gave London a rather depressing appearance with drab commuters trudging over the bridges to the city like figures in a Lowry painting.  There were very few boats moving this early in the morning and once past Westminster Bridge with a few early morning tourists waving at us, the river was quiet.  Arrival at Brentford two and a half hours later was uneventful and we proceeded up to the bottom of Hanwell passing our only canal boat of the day on the way.   The pound below lock 94 always seems to be down, and this time it was so low that we grounded on obstructions on the lock floor and could not close the gates.   Pat went up and let a load of water down to float us off and our journey continued.  At Norwood top lock we had our first intimation from Archimedes that there was a problem at Cowley and indeed, on arrival there we were stopped and moored up.  A dredger working on the bridge approach had taken a bite out of a culvert and all efforts now were directed to sealing up this hole in the bottom of the canal.   It soon became evident that we would make no more progress today, so we reversed to the bridge nearby the recently renovated "Waters Edge" restaurant (Previously the "Turning Point") and settled for a meal there.

Limehouse

Having moored up near the passageway to Paddington Station last Wednesday, and seen Pat, Grannie & the dogs off home I now had to wait out the two days until Saturday when our friend Debbie was to join us with her 6 year old son for a trip down the Regent's Canal.  The time was usefully spent doing a bit of cleaning and shopping and I returned home briefly to pick up the ships radio as it seems more sensible to return to Harefield via the Thames which we can do in one day.  Gemma stayed over two nights and Pat joined me on Saturday with a "catering pack" for the day, which looked very promising with blue sky and little wind.

Debbie & Harry turned up promptly and we left at about 9.30 to follow a boat with no name being taken to Springfield Marina, so we were able to share locks down to Islington where we stopped for one of Pat's unforgettable buffet lunches.  All the locks bar Camden and Old Ford were against us and travelling for the first part with a professional crew on the accompanying boat, all exit gates were left open.  I had requested mooring for two nights at Limehouse, but none were available.  However, we were given permission to spend two nights (rather than the usually limited one) on the open moorings by the south wall.  On arrival the wall was full, so we attached ourselves to the only 60 foot boat there and sat down to enjoy the last of the sunshine with a few beers, some wine and the company of Tom who had cycled over (or under really) from Greenwich to join us for the evening.  Leaving Debbie to return home, the party transferred to The Grapes for more liquid refreshment and finally to the excellent Cafe Rajistan Curry House on Commercial Road.

Today, Sunday, has been spent watching and encouraging the London Marathon which passes by the swing bridge at Limehouse - Gemma's boyfriend Sam was taking part and using the boat as a base, we met his parents for the first time.   Well done Sam - a time of 4 and a half hours isn't at all bad.  I must say that the never ending packed stream of runners appearing over the bridge was really awe inspiring.

Now all our guests have gone it's time to ready the boat for the tidal river transit and prepare ourselves for the morning departure.

Well the trip to Little Venice (actually Paddington Arm because its nearer the railway station) and the crew shuffle worked beautifully.  We were off the mooring at Teddington at 6:35am, had to wait 5 minutes for the lock keeper and were on the River at 6:55.   We were told off for not, and asked to pay, the overnight mooring fee of £5.50.  Honest I didn't see the sign, Guv!  Without really trying we were in at Brentford at 7:45 and carried straight on through the gauging lock.

The journey down the tidal river is quite straightforward.  The lock keepers will advise on the correct time to leave and remember also that Brentford Thames Lock must be pre-booked if arriving outside the hours of 8:00 to 18:00.  Once past Richmond Town bridge the next two bridges appear offset and it is important to line up early with the second arch from the right, marked as the channel with two yellow lights, to avoid being swept up onto the pier by the now fast running tide.  In the next picture  (click on thumbnail to enlarge) Nuggler is about to pass through the second  bridge and the lights are clearly seen.   Beyond is the Richmond Weir which is lowered two hours either side of high tide to allow unobstructed passage.   The extreme right hand arch houses the lock which is used at lower tide and the next is marked as closed by the three red lights forming an inverted triangle. The arch we must go through is the right hand of the two marked with the yellow channel markers.   The left hand one is for upstream traffic.

It is easy to miss the entrance to Brentford Creek and be forced to turn too late for the tidal flow carrying you on down the river if your engine is not powerful enough.  I have been there and it is a struggle to fight the tide. This is the view you get as you near the turning.  The post actually marks the entrace to Brentford Marina. The next photo shows how the entrance is hidden.  Don't turn to early either, I have seen a sand bar on the corner and the tide can push the stern round so that you hit it or the piling.

Once safely in at Thames Lock, and the electrically self operated Brentford Gauging Lock (BW Key needed) we adopted the lock wheeling approach without the wheels and shot up the Hanwell flight, turned right at Bulls Bridge and carried on, taking lunch in shifts, the idea being to get to Paddington before the rush hour.  We (including Grannie and dogs) were on a 36 bus by 15:10.

I will now rest, restore the boat to its pristine condition and await crew for the trip to Limehouse on Saturday.

Teddington

Runnymead to Teddington, where we await the tide to Brentford, is only about 5 hours, so we had plenty of time.   Leaving our moorings at a leisurely 8 am we self worked Bell Weir Lock  with the intention of making for Walton on Thames for lunch and perhaps more provision shopping.  There was virtually no other traffic until we reached Shepperton Lock and a clutch of plastic boats and a rowing boat emerged going upstream.  Fortunately there was a mooring for us immediately outside the Anglers pub and we shot off to Sainsbury's in the town centre.   A couple of quick pints of Marston's Pedigree were enjoyed before setting off again, reaching the new moorings at Teddington at 16:10.    We could have taken the tide tonight, but we will leave early in the morning instead - a 6.30 departure.  The intention then is to carry straight on to Bulls Bridge and Little Venice to await our trip down the Regent's Canal on Saturday.

Travelling with the two ageing labradors, as we do, brings with it some extra difficulties as well as pleasures.  They are both used to the boat, but because of arthritis are not so keen on jumping off the boat if there is a level difference or a large gap. The Thames is additionally a problem because unlike the canals, the towpath is not immediately accessible and so getting them to do wees and poos at the right time is not so easy.  Lock keepers do not seem to like dogs running around and mostly specifically ask that they be kept on the boat.  So we like it when we have to wait in a queue as this gives us time to give them a bit of "exercise".   Today, however, no traffic and no queues, so when we arrived at Sunbury Lock and found the gates closed with traffic coming up, there was an opportunity, but the lock landing is on a curve and it took a while to get them to summon up enough courage to make the leap.  As the lock gates opened, so did their bowels, so there was Pat running all over the grass with her Sainsbury freezer bags trying to remember where the deposits were and get the dogs back on, while the lock keeper went off to tend his garden.

Runnymead

Today's tasks were:

1 To get roughly half way to Teddington with a view to getting the early morning tide on Wednesday
2 To find water
3 To find bread, milk & some provisions

Halfway looked like Windsor again, which I was a bit unhappy with given our difficulties before.  However, we found ourselves making very good time with seemingly little traffic given that it was a bank holiday.  So we pressed on.  Using the trusty computer and the Gazeteer on Nick Atty's Canal Planner I scanned Maidenhead for useful supermarkets, but they all seemed away on the periphery.  Windsor turned up a Waitrose not far from the main drag, so we planned a stop there on the wall, just after the bridge (going downstream) for a quick getaway up the main street and back.   At Cookham Lock we discovered a water point and used it - a painfully short hose requiring the boat moored half off the layby.  Cookham also has a useful kiosk selling milk & bread (and icecream). We reached Windsor by 15:00 in spite of lock delays over the lunch hour and did the shopping in half an hour - then back on the water reaching Runnymead to find space available on our favourite night stop mooring.   Thames Lock has been booked for 8 am Wednesday.

Henley-on-Thames

We awoke at 6.am to a clear blue sky and the promise of a fine day.  We set off gently ay 7.30 to negotiate Hurley Lock and take on water, but unfortunately the water point was fenced off, pending the commisioning of a new sanitary station, I suspect.   This was a bit of a blow because the next opportunity will be back at Bray Lock when we return tomorrow - and we are now 1/4 full.  The early mornings are the best part of the day, because we have the water all to ourselves.  Approaching Hamble Lock a batch of plastic boats appeared, so we knew that the lock keeper was waiting for us.  Arrival at Henley was just before 10:00 and we moored in our usual place (£5.00 per night).   Pat needs supplies, so we set off to walk to the Waitrose in town, but unusually it was closed, being Easter Sunday I suppose.  Gave the brass its first polish for the season, which in turn will guarantee rain.  Indeed, we now have broken cloud and the likelyhood of a shower before the day is out.

Hurley

Well, we did the tourist thing and walked into Windsor (slowly - Grannie had a bit of a struggle up the hill to the Market Square).  At 9 am it seemed very quiet, just the odd policeman about and the guards on the castle gates, then at 9.20, suddenly, hoards of foreign visitors appeared in clumps, each group with folded umbrella weilding tour guides.  We waited for a tour bus and had a gentle drive round about including a stop by the Watermans Arms where we had stopped yesterday.  The oldest pub in Eton I thought our commentator said.   We wandered back to the boat at about 11 am and set off - along it seemed with everybody else.   Obviously we have been doing it all wrong and the cogniscenti all leave at 11:00.   Consequently there were long lock queues for the small Boveney  and Bray Locks and only at Boulters, with its longer deeper lock, did we get in first flush.  After Cookham, where the gates closed in front of us we tried to make Marlow Lock, but it was after closing time.   The lock keeper kindly let us in, and two other latecomers, and shut the gates for us before leaving us to wind the handle ourselves.    I must count the number of turns needed!  Still nowhere to moor, so Temple Lock next and then we found a nice mooring against a field below Hurley Lock.   Pat scrabbled an ad hoc meal together, Chicken Cordon Bleu, Saute Potatoes and Peas, Sweetcorn, mushrooms and Onions.  Strawberries and cream finished us off all helped with an Italian red (Negroamaro).

Windsor

Along with the grand plan to not have long days and try a bit of tourism, we thought we would aim for Windsor, although it nearly didn't come off.   The day started grey and overcast and we were waiting at Shepperton Lock at 9 am for the Lock Keeper to come on duty.  By Chertsey Lock it started to drizzle and then set in for a wet and cold morning.  Our new Gortex Jackets proved their work in keeping the top half dry and warm, but shoes and jeans got soaked, so by Runnymead we were ready for lunch and a change of clothes.  However, the afternoon improved and by Windsor it was sunny and warm.   The aim was to moor on the Eton side by the grass meadow, but we needed an easy access for Grannie and on two attempts we failed to get near enough to the bank to make boat access possible.  Fearing that we would have to go on to "The hanger", we tried as a last resort nearer to the railway bridge where there is a low bank and succeeded, though the gang plank was still needed.  Taking advantage of this we took a walk towards town and the Watermans Arms, a bustling young persons pub (Pat says) tucked away behing the rowing club boathouse.  Eating in tonight (Casserole - the smell from the slow cooker has been driving me wild all day).

Shepperton Lock

With the deadline of the tide and the need to top up on shopping, we left Cowley at 07:45.  At Bulls Bridge Tesco I topped up the water tank whilst Pat did the shopping, then we were off again.  Having spotted a narrowboat pass us at speed whilst moored on its way towards Brentford, we knew that the Hanwell flight would be against us.  Our plan as usual is for Pat to walk ahead setting the locks, guard the opposite top gate as the boat enters, then open a bottom paddle and immediately walk on, leaving me to see the boat through the lock, closing the bottom gate on exit.  Using this pattern we had caught up with the previous boat and joined them for the last two of Hanwell.  This boat, crewed by novices who incidentally thought that the lock was not big enough for two boats, was in turn slowed by a cruiser in front which did need the full lock.   Moving on from the bottom of Hanwell, Pat reported via the CB Radio that there was a problem with the cruiser ahead at Osterley Lock.   The bottom gates seemed to be leaking badly and they could not get the lock to fill.  Because of the River Brent and its weir just above the lock, this lock attracts an enormous amount of rubbish and there was a tree trunk behind a bottom gate and a large amount of general rubbish including large branches.   We advised emptying the lock and flushing it out, which worked and using a boat hook, we succeeded in getting the tree out with the cruiser.  The new BW Offices at Brentford Basin are now open, and there is a card operated pump out facility there.  What a pity though that the pumps used in these units are so feeble.  The flow is intermittent and the pump timing not long enough to empty our holding tank.   What it needs in my view is something like a large wet vacuum cleaner.

Once on the exposed Thames reach above Brentford, the wind which was much stronger than we thought and the water, with wind against tide, was the roughest I have seen it.  In spite of this, the trip was uneventful apart from having to raise the Teddington Lock keeper by telephone after thinking there was nobody there.  Really, we should have stopped at Hamton Court.   There were plenty of moorings there, but having in mind that we should be able to get to Walton on Thames (The Anglers) I carried on.  However, Sunbury Lock keeper had gone off duty on the dot and we had to self work the lock in company with a work boat and our favourite moorings by the Anglers were full.   The next spot is where we are now, on public moorings at the bend below Shepperton Lock, opposite the weir and in a strong flow.  To be on the safe side I dropped the anchor as well, as a fail safe should our pins get pulled out with or without help from a local.

River Thames Easter Jaunt

Harefield Marina to Cowley

Harefield to Brentford, where we get access to the tidal Thames, is 6 - 7 hours and with high tide at 16:00 hours local time we need to be out on the river at 14:00 to take maximum benefit from the flood tide, so it is a little bit too much to do in one day.   Accordingly we braved midday traffic from home, reached the boat at 14:15, and after loading up, set off at 14:45.   We joined up with GUCCC ELSTREE at Denham Deep Lock and Uxbridge, but continued alone after Uxbridge Boat Centre.  Dredging work was still underway in this pound , the dredger nearing Cowley Lock.  At Cowley, ARA was in the same position as when last we passed, but this time open for business, so we took on 3 bags of Taybright.  The weather is still cold at night, but milder conditions are forecast for the weekend.   Nevertheless, we do not like to be cold!.

Our mooring for the night was just below Cowley Lock, by the sports field - excellent for the dogs.  Access to the Malt Shovel pub, always in the past an issue because the door opening to the lock side was locked, was no longer a problem.   The door we found was open.   The Marston's Pedigree on tap (not from cask) was tried and found to be not too bad.   Tomorrow - Brentford and then hopefully on to Walton on Thames.