UK Canals - Journey reports

Hunton Bridge to Harefield

We woke to a cloudless sky with shafts of light from the early morning sun illuminating the boat through the willow trees. As I took the dogs for their morning constitutional the mist was rising from the canal in the still cold air. And at 7:15 we were off with Hunton Bridge Locks not far away. Fortunately, when I have a crew, I could not want for better. On this occasion Pat (the Mrs), Gemma (daughter) and Grannie (beverages) all have the interest for the most efficient working. The two labradors, of course, have a supervisory role but double up when necessary as security. So going down a sequence of locks is pretty effortless and if the next lock is within easy distance I would expect to find the gate open ready on arrival. If appropriate I will work a lock single handed in return for the open gate at the next, normal practice on a flight when there are only two of us. We had one opposite direction below IronBridge Lock, but until Coppermill Lock pretty well no other moving traffic, strange for such a beautiful day. We stopped again at Widewater for lunch at 13:15. By now the boat will have been prepared for a quick get-away, fridge emptied, washing bagged, rubbish cleared etc, so by 14:30, after the one lock down to the marina, we were in the car in good time to beat the bank holiday traffic on the way home.

Winkwell to Kings Langley

I put the results of last nights inspirational thoughts to Pat on waking. Instant approval. The decision proved more inspirational that I realised for looking at the map I discovered that the next winding hole was at Cowroast. So had we gone on to Berkhampstead we would have been in for a nasty shock. So we had the breakfast, cleaned the boat and reversed back through the swingbridge (thank goodness for bow-thrusters) got the pump out, reversed through the lock and turned the boat by the new marina there. After lunch we set off on the return journey. We came across a bunch of Scouts on a narrowboat at Apsley who offered to help us leave, so we waited for them at Nash Mills. Noticing that they wore no buoyancy aids I asked the helmsman how he stopped them from drowning. Quick as a flash he replied that he expected them to. And I thought the old scouting spirit was dead! It always seems to go faster downhill. Maybe there's some truth in that locks may empty faster than they fill. The water current may contribute, but we reached Hunton Bridge in good order by 17:00, just under 4 hours. Once we found a nice mooring (on the fourth attempt beaten each time previously by the shallows we found a friendly welcome at the Kings Head - now reasonably well refurbished and still a proper pub.

Widewater to Winkwell

I probably pushed the crew a little too hard today. Lots to report but will have to wait until I can get a proper internet connection. But we are here and looking forward to supper. (Posted by mobile phone) Update 31/5/04 Up early at 6 am for 7:10 departure. The journey north is full of interest and never fails to enthuse us, however, of the lesser attractions are the rows of in-line moorings between Stockers lock and Croxley Green. One particular isolated towpath eyesore is shown here a few furlongs below Back Jack's Lock. Surely many of these boat could never get a licence on Boat Safety Certificate grounds so it will be interesting to see how BW deals with then eventually. Having said that many are now licenced that were not last year. We stopped at Tesco (Rickmansworth) for re-victualling as the store-side moorings are so convenient. Above Cassiobridge Lock we met another Braidbar Boat taking water (No 76 - Briar Rose) and I got a picture of it on our way back moored opposite Tesco. The Andy Russell signwriting is characteristic. I swapped experiences with the owner whilst the crew looked after Nuggler in the lock with a small cruiser destined for a party in Berkhampstead that evening. We left the party goers to it beyond IronBridge Lock and stopped for lunch. At the next lock I was surprised to pass a boat (no name) skippered by Paula, a woman I had shared a few locks with on the start of our last summer cruise on her way to new moorings on the Macclesfield. She seemed as surprised as I was. We passed lock 73 which has been largely rebuilt, although rather cunningly it looks as if is has been given a new concrete jacket because the original brickwork, weeds and gates appear untouched whilst the surrounds look like very solid concrete topped of with attractive block paving and newly seeded grass. Nick Atty's Canalplan software suggested that Apsley would be the right place stop for the night to break our journey neatly into three segments. However, I was rather concerned that we might arrive at Berkhampstead too late to find a mooring and Sunday Lunch (ostensibly the reason for going there) so was keen to press on and get some locks "in the bank". So we passed Hemel Hempstead and The Fishery Inn at Boxmoor (which I had heard was not a good place to stop on account of yobbish behaviours at closing time) and we aimed for Winkwell. In retrospect this might have been a lock too far because we didn't arrive until 18:45. Supper again courtesy of Pat, this time by popular acclaim, beef casserole. A brief visit to the pub saw us early to bed. That night I had an inspirational thought- how about staying put the next morning, having a proper breakfast, indulge ourselves by cleaning the boat, getting a pump out at the boatyard and being first in the queue for Sunday Roast at the three horseshoes.

Berkhamstead

We have decided to leave for our three day cruise this afternoon rather than tomorrow so that we do not have to get up so early. We will do one lock and retire to the Horse and Barge. Well that was the plan, but spoilt by the 2 hour journey to the marina (as opposed to our usual 1 hour at 6 am). This was due in part to normal rush hour traffic, but a lorry had shed a load at Hangar lane and the N Circular and A40 were gridlocked. Fortunately, the electronic signs and radio reports gave us warning to divert via M4. Secondly on mooring up we, and another boater, were disappointed to find that the Horse & Barge does not do food in the evenings. Pat pulled another rabbit out of the hat and produced a fine meal of chicken in honey & mustard sauce, roast potatoes and brocolli.

Limehouse Cruise

Friday 14th May 2004

An early start again to take the boat single handed to Little Venice. Left Harefield at 7:20 arriving at Little Venice at 15:10 - after a straight run through. Much to my pleasure I found an exact 60 foot mooring "on the rings" between Liberty Belle (yes! Angela's) and Iceni (the boat we shared locks with on the Coppermill cruise). Gemma and Marcin arrived at about 18:00 for supper (beef casserole, boiled potatoes and peas washed down with a french red.) We all retired to the Bridge House for three pints. Quite a warm evening and unreasonably stuffy inside, so we perched outside until a table was free. An early night.

Saturday 15th May 2004

Up early (6:30) and a swift breakfast in time for 8:00 departure for Limehouse. Stopped at Victoria Park for lunch, although mooring required a pin right on the end of a line of what looked like long term moorers (14 day stay place). We were overtaken here by Buffalo - a large catarmaran like broadbeam trip boat full of elderly types (like your writer). Consequently all the locks were against us down to Limehouse with both bottom gates open. I did have a chance to perfect my technique for lassooing the opposite top gate which always opens itself as the boat enters the lock. This works best when the gate is not completely open I found. We met up with Buffalo again in the basin at Limehouse as all the passengers had been disembarked onto the pontoon. We stopped there to take water and then moved onto the wall for the night. The evening was spent at the Grapes and then on to the Cafe Rajistan for a curry.

Sunday 16th May 2004

Up early again, this time for the "full english" before understaing some cleaning routines getting the boat ready for our guests, Dan & Penny and their children. Marcin was delegated to be chef, although being multiskilled he was also able to help with locks. However Dan and children soon got proficient at this. Once the children had been shown around the boat and given thier safety lecture and buoyancy aids, we made a slow run to Victoria Park for lunch, however, mooring was more problematical this time as the official moorings were full and we had to go past the bridge and get out the mooring pins. An excellent buffet lunch was served with cold meat selection, kedgeree, quiches various, chicken and avocado, salad, cole slaw, potato salad, chicken nuggets - with a chilled white wine (by Dan) and other soft drinks. For afters a great fruit salad had been prepared. (There was so much food we were still eating it the next day!)

After lunch we put on more speed and reached Islington Tunnel where we had to wait for a boat to emerg with a crew member sitting on front holding a torch. Camden was very busy. Couples were teeming round the locks, with picnics on the grass by the towpath as well. At Hawley Lock the lock beams were all occupied with rows of sitting onlookers rather like pigeons on a perch. A demonstration was taking place there as well. After that we passed through Regents Park and the Zoo before returning to our same exact mooring behind Liberty Belle. This time Angela was at home and we had a brief chat before getting sorted out for continuation of the buffet lunch. We compared plans for the summer and we might well meet up again on the Kennet & Avon in July. Gemma stayed overnight to go to work the next day.

Monday 17th May 2004

Gemma needed to be up early for work, so after breakfast Marcin and I got underway and made an entirely uneventful cruise back to Harefield.

Presidential Escort Duty and adventures in the tideway

The steam narrowboat "PRESIDENT" and its butty "KILDARE", having attended the Canalway Cavalcade at Little Venice on the preceeding bank holiday weekend had been moored at the London Canal Museum during the following week. The pair were planning to continue down the Regents Canal and then cruise up the Thames tideway from Limehouse to Brentford and so it was.

NUGGLER crew were up at the usual early hour and the dogs given their customary walk. The now traditional "full english breakfast" followed for the skipper and first mate and then cleaning routines, shopping and more dog walking. Pat found the towpath blocked just up the start of the regents canal as there was contractor activity under the derelict railway bridge there. A real effort was made to get the brass up to scratch after the recent rain and a quick polish followed. President and Kildare arrived at about 12:45 and moored up just in front of the tidal lock. Much tinkling of engine room signals, chuff chuffing and a very professional arrival. The crew went off in search of food, but the local pubs were closed - seemingly a local power failure. There was then a full team briefing by Roger Squires on procedures to be followed for the cruise. Firstly safety and emergency procedures. A buddy system was to be employed. Any boat in trouble would sound their horn 4 times, the captain raise his hand and put the tunnel light on. The nearest boat would then come alongside, breast up and maintain steerage way while the problem was investigated. Secondly, as there were some 11 boats, four lockings would be needed and to keep the flotilla together, the first series would proceed out into the tideway and moor up on a nearby wharf until the Presidential pair emerged and then peel off to follow. A warning was given of likely hazards.

As before Nuggler was first out in company with Cherie (VHF equipped) and Birdsong (first time on the tideway). Cherie led as Eric, the skipper, knew where the wharf was. We turned around the nearby barge buoy to face into the tide and approached the wharf simultaneously with the wash from a trip boat. Getting the boats moored up abreast as they pitched and rolled was (a) very difficult and (b) undoubtedly dangerous. The rear counter of a narrowboat offers little protection against being thrown overboard and with three boats crashing against one another there must be a risk of getting crushed.

I carry some large triangular fenders (which double up as life buoys and seats) which now came into their own. The main problem appeared to be firstly getting a line around the huge wooden barnacle encrusted piles, and secondly every time a trip boat passed, with the consequent pitching, the rope would slip down the pile and then lock as the boat rose again thus contributing to a significant rolling motion, whereas my boat breasted up alongside Cherie was not rolling at all, just pitching and crashing against Birdsong and Cherie. Pat later found the cabin to be a disaster zone with gunwale cupboards open, our vast emergency stores of baked beans rolling over the floor and other furniture displaced from its designated positions. We appeared to have suffered no damage, but Birdsong had a wayleave sheer off. It was with some relief then that President emerged and the cruise started. Peeling off I got preoccupied watching Pat attempting to remove the forward fender and nearly missed spotting the fast approaching barge buoy. Application of positive avoiding action was required watched, no doubt with amusement, by the nearby police launch. She was instructed in the end to cut the fender clear to retrieve it. I did not want her to get washed overboard.

After that all proceeded as planned through the centre of London. President's stoker arranged to stoke just before the Palace of Westminster so that a plume of dense black/brown smoke drifted towards the building accompanied by much whistling and tooting. Cherie and Nuggler were at the rear by this time.

Beyond Chelsey Bridge Cherie appeared to be faltering and then gave the emergency signal. They had lost power and were drifting slowly turning broadside onto the stream. As instructed we performed a looping manoevre and came up along their port side and carried out an immaculate breasting up manoevre. The crew, who had been briefed before leaving Limehouse knew just what to do which was good because by now Cherie was drifting broadside on towards the central pier of Albert Bridge. The bowthruster was employed to minimise the risk, but by now steerage way was gained and passing through the "wrong" arch we regained the correct side of the river. Fortunately there was little traffic about. Hearing that there was a problem, the Harbourmaster's launch Londinium 1 came back to check on us, but by now were were out of danger, still breasted up, but now falling way behind the bulk of the flotilla. Eric set about diagnosing his problem. About 30 minutes later, as if to test us further I felt a dull thump through the boat and a sudden increase in vibration through the tiller. It appeared that we had a visitor on the propellor. However the propellor was still turning and there was still some thrust. Intermittently engaging reverse did little, so we carried on, now slower than ever. Clearly, should the tide turn, we would now have no hope of fighting it and my thoughts were given over to thinking of options. Sometime after Putney Brige, Eric got his engine going again, so it was my turn to shutdown and go down the weed hatch. Putting the gear in drive with the engine off seemed to stop any tendency of the propellor to turn in the wake of the forward motion and after a bit of fishing, the remains of a football were removed from the prop. Power thus fully restored to both boats we separated (after the customary drink) and continued up river arriving at Brentford to join the tail of the queue for Thames Lock.

At Brentford the organisation seemd to get a little confused. President's crew wanted to moor up, but seemingly arrangements had been made for a pub in Hanwell for us to have a meal and a few beers together. So we carried on eventually reaching the bottom of the Hanwell flight at about 20:00 hours, six hours after leaving the wall at Limehouse. As it turned out, although there had been preliminary discussions with the landlord at the Dolphin, Hanwell, nothing had been confirmed, so we were not after all expected. Those that arrived before 9 p.m. got fed and the majority who arrived after had to make other arrangements.

So ended a rather exiting day

Tuesday 11th May 2004

Somehow Grannie got the time wrong and burst into the Galley (next to our make-up sofa bed) at 5:30 saying "Time to wake up - its 6:30". Too late then to go back to sleep, so we got up, and I walked the dogs with the intention of getting an early start before PRESIDENT. Went up the flight, but as usual, the third pound was way down. No sign of any BW activity, but there was the tiniest of trickles of water from the bywash and the locks above and below were nearly full. My diagnosis is a leaking pound, so resolved after breakfast to go up to the top Hanwell Lock on the bike and let some water down. This I did, and on return found that President had a head of steam and crew were starting on the first lock. So much for getting a head start. However it didn't matter. We were joined for the flight by nb Lotus and the presidential team were helpful in opening the bottom paddles for us as we followed. The third pound was OK for us, but it sounded as if PRESIDENT had a little trouble in getting over the upper lock cill. Once at the top a routine cruise to Harefield.

Thames Barrier Cruise

Sunday 9th May 2004

This cruise was hosted by St Pancras Cruising Club. There were 8 boats in all, taking part. Limehouse lock is large, but can only take 3 full size narrowboats at a time, so a plan was needed. The idea was for the first 3 to go out and moor up on the pontoons below to await the second group. These 6 would then proceed leisurely leaving the remaining two to catch up. Its always a thrill to see the large sector gates at Limehouse open up to let the water out, a little bit at a time. There are not paddles or sluices. One wonders what it would be like if they opened more quickly. This was the first time, though, that I had seen the cill of the lock. We were going out about 2 hours before low tide and its a long way down. Morring up temporarily proved not problem, even with the rush of water from the second locking. Then we were on our way after the usual long blast on the horn and crossing the fairway to the opposite side. The water unlike on previous occasions was surprisingly calm. Whether this is due to the slower pace of the ebb tide or the lower water allowing the wash of the trip boats to dissipate on the beaches at the side of the river I do not know. Rob & Chloe, their first time out on the river, were disappointed. Proceeding downwards we spotted the usual landmarks, Greenwich, the Trafalgar and Cutty Sark Taverns, the Dome (one doesn't hear much about that white elephant these days) and the entrance to Bow Creek, by this time almost dry. The great danger is being taken by the tide onto the buoys and piers which adorn the river. They sometimes give the illusion of moving out into the river to get in your way as you seemingly steer a steady course. Careful advance planning of the course is required to avoid these hazards. You cannot leave it to the last minute or risk collision. Planning for the cruise had all been taken care of including permission to enter the control zone up and downstream of the barrier. I have no doubt that VHF is needed this far down the river. Passing through the barrier and remarking on the sheer size when up close, we turned, crossed the stream once more and now at almost slack water, retraced our steps, first on back through the barrier agin and then up river. We were overtaken by a mock galleon full of tourists, some up in the rigging. Returning to Limehouse we were warned on approaching the lock that there was only a metre of water over the lower cill. "No problem". Thus ended a very enjoyable trip out. On return to our previous mooring we enjoyed a very tasty casserole washed down with some good wine. The captain and senior crew retired to "The Grapes" along with Eric, skipper of the vessel now breasted up on our moorings.

Positioning to Limehouse

Friday 7th May 2004

I had prepared the boat on the previous Wednesday, stocking up with food etc ready for a quick getaway this Friday. The plan was to leave Derby by train at 7:20 and proceed direct to Harefield and thence to Little Venice. The fridge, by the way, which I had left on had only consumed 50 amp hours over the 48 hours it had been left on for. Topped up with diesel at Harefield leaving at 12:30. Proceeded straight through Bulls Bridge having locked down to Cowley in association with another boat (no name). It was cold and I was tired so not wanting to find no mooring at Little venice due to the late arrival, I stopped at Kensal Green where there is always space. It is quiet opposite the cemetary. Used the microwave to set up a Tesco ready meal of Chicken Jalfrezi (not bad) and retired for the night.

Saturday 8th May 2004

Quite a bit of rain in the night I suspect and it was falling steadily at day break. Up at 5:30 and after a boat breakfast of porridge (with extras) revived the fire and prepared for a wet day. Upped stakes at 7:00. My prediction for Little Venice proved correct. Boats were tied up right around the corner, always difficult because there are no rings and the ground is too soft to take stakes reliably. I have seen several boats cast adrift there by passing wash. Continued straight on to Hamstead Road Locks which were both open, as was the next. After that - not. Uneventful passage through to Victoria Park where I had planned to stop for lunch, but all the moorings were taken, so dropped down Old Ford Lock and moored up just past the junction with the Hertford Union. By now the rain had stopped and after a quick lunch in 25 minutes I was on the move again reaching Limehouse at 14:45. Mooring on the wall at Limehouse can be a little problematic because of the height, and this time arthritic Grannie and two overweight Labradors were planned to meet me. I had the idea of taking the front cabin steps out (usually full of coal but this time left empty) and putting them on the rear deck with some timber packing to keep them stable. This worked very well, particularly as I was not able to get to the wall ladders. The crew arrived as planned and we tried out the Cruising Association facilities for the first time. We had the last 2 pints of beer and a good fish & chips before retiring for the night.

Watford again

Saturday 1st May 2004

The weather this weekend was not forecast to be good. We arrived at the marina at 7:00 in a light rain, prepped the boat, lit the fire and set off at 7:20. No dogs with us this time as we were due to both be away from the boat at Watford for 5 hours or so and we are not too keen on leaving them locked up inside on their own for this length of time. Whether this had any bearing on things I do not know, but we made excellent time and reached Ironbridge Lock before 12 MD. Certainly the weather seemed to keep all other traffic off the canal apart from a small tug at Springwell Lock opposite direction and a plastic boat which joined us for the last two locks up to Cassiobury Park. They were on their way to the Nene. After a perfectly executed wind (the boat BUXTON is still there) we descended the lock and were moored up by 12:15. Lunch, as is the tradition was smoked salmon, Italian salad and new potatoes washed down with a bottle of Villacava. Excellent. Set off for afternoon meeting at 16:00 - about 1/2 hour walk and returned by 9:45.

Sunday 2nd May 2004

After a light breakfast we left at 8:25 for the journey back to Harefield. On the whole a "good road", but with a few locks needing top paddles opening just to correct levels before the gates would open. We were joined by ICENI from Coppermill, but at 12:25 we stopped for lunch above Widewater. ICENI was hopoing to make Little Venice. The afternoon turned out quite warm and reluctantly we returned to the marina at 15:50 and the journey home.