Rust has always been a bit of a problem. There is an earlier post to this site detailing some experiences with the carbon monoxide alarm waking us at night and the finding of a leaking back plate at the site of the alternate flue connection due to rusted through bolts giving way. I suspected that there was a leak of rainwater alongside the top of the flue but recent experience shows that this might just be condensation forming when the boat is out of use.
During last year's cruise, whilst closing the stove door, there was a sort of metallic grating sound and the top of the stove was seen to jump upwards. Closer inspection revealed that the sides had burst out as well leaving gaps giving a view to the interior. Clearly the stove was unfit for further use. Well we were forced to use it occasionally in very cold wet weather, but only with a strong fire burning to guarantee a good draft and never at night. There is nothing like a fire to warm the boat in wet weather. It is dry heat and the ventilation is improved, and after all houses have open fires. There was never any indication of carbon monoxide in the cabin.
The immediate problem was what to do about it. My impression was that the stove would have to come out later confirmed by an engineer. So it was not going to be quick to deal with, so we waited until our return. A quote was obtained and the options of repair or buy new considered. Essentially there was nothing wrong with the cast iron components (at first sight) so repair was elected, although there was only a few hundred pounds difference. The expectation was that the engineer would indicate where and when he would be available to get the stove out, either at Harefield where we moor, or we would take the boat to him and wait a few days while the work was done. However, Harefield were not happy about another engineer on their site but never came back with an alternate solution and we hadn't heard from our chap either. Getting frustrated I decided to remove the stove myself and take it for repair. But how is it done? The flue is fixed at the roof and the stove top and has to be removed first obviously, but how? An internet forum provided all the answers, detailing how a flue is fitted. So working backwards, the seal has to be removed from the top outide. This consists of fireproof webbing and a top seal with heat resistant silicone. It took a while to dig this all out and allows the flue to be lifted up once the seal at the stove to is also cleared. This proved impossible with the methods I tried (small drill bit, screwdriver etc.), however as the whole stove top plate was loose I was able to lift this up, support it with some timber in the lifted position and slide the stove out from underneath. Then the flue and stove top could be dropped. Removing as much of the stove components as possible, the carcase could be lifted out and into the car. Further investigation of the flue collar on the stove top now from underneath revealed the bolts holding this in and it was easily separated. (Doing this in the first place would have saved a lot of wasted effort).
The stove was duly repaired. A crack was found in one of the side plates, and a number of small components were needed, but the whole thing came in cheaper than expected thanks I suppose to my efforts. But now the stove was reassembled, how was I going to get it in again all in one piece? The cunning plan was to take the boat to the boatyard (Uxbridge) there was the stove waiting and three burly folk to put it in the boat for me. No problem. The installing it was down to me, but now fully understanding how it all fits and with the necessary items to hand, this was an amazingly quick process. Just place the stove into its original place, screw it down; slide the flue up first, then down into the collar. Tape inserted into the collar around the flue, then fire cement. Then more tape at the top finished off with heat resistant silicone.
Comments